Modded Switch OLED not booting HWFLY LED goes from purple to yellow/orange

mydudedontberude

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I just got my switch back from a modder who installed an OLED HWFLY chip. It worked at first but now the console won't boot. I might have to just send it back to the guy but he's in the US and I'm in Canada so shipping can be a kind of long and expensive process I was wondering if anyone has any tips on things I could try myself that don't involve soldering.

When I got my Switch back it was able to boot up the first time and mostly worked fine. I was able to launch tinfoil, download some stuff and play some games. The one problem I had was that the joycons kept on losing connection when detached and were often unresponsive (although seemed to be perfect when attached to the console). I saw that the switch had the option to update the joycons so I did that and then tried to restart the console.

After it shut off though, I wasn't able to boot it back up. I've tried removing the SD card, taking off the joycons, holding the power button for over 20 seconds, and the screen still stays completely black. I've attached a video to show off the HWFLY LED lights. Basically they pulse/blink a purple light for about 30 seconds, then quickly blink a yellow/orange light, then that light goes solid, and then the light turns off.

Is it possible that I did something wrong by updating the joycons and is there anything that I could do that doesn't involve soldering to fix this? Or would this have to be an issue with the installation?

Thank you,
Dan
 

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Tayfunx3

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Did u find a solution? Could be that the dat0 board slipped out of place because the installier didn't attach it correctly
 

Jaydamuss

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i have exact problem now, installed few days ago and worked perfect. changed clock time and games wouldnt run so i restarted and now have same flashing problem as you, did you figure out what the issue was?
 

l7777

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I had a similar problem, it was my DAT0 adapter. It was good enough to train and boot a few times, but then it decided it was done. Re-soldered the anchor with some more spudger authority and it's not been a problem since.
 

Jaydamuss

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I had a similar problem, it was my DAT0 adapter. It was good enough to train and boot a few times, but then it decided it was done. Re-soldered the anchor with some more spudger authority and it's not been a problem since.
Hey thanks for your help I removed adapter and reinstalled with more pressure and works perfectly cheers
 

Toadsty!

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Here i am with an oled switch with the exact same problem. Sometimes it boots again perfectly for a few days, sometimes it gets stuck again. I have tried everything, even the modder i paid installed a new chip, but no luck. If anyone knows what might be the cause please let me know :)
 

l7777

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Here i am with an oled switch with the exact same problem. Sometimes it boots again perfectly for a few days, sometimes it gets stuck again. I have tried everything, even the modder i paid installed a new chip, but no luck. If anyone knows what might be the cause please let me know :)
This is a guess, but I'm going to go with a poor DAT0 adapter install just as @Jaydamuss and I had. Your modder should measure the value in diode mode from the DAT0 point to ground and it should measure between .500 and .800. It should also not fluctuate when touching the the adapter. If your modder can't do these things it's time to find another.

In my case I had pushed on the adapter when soldering the anchor point, but I had not pushed very hard. After having issues and noticing that the measured diode value was fluctuating when I touched the adapter I re-soldered the anchor putting much more pressure on the adapter with my spudger.
 

Bubbles21

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I just got my switch back from a modder who installed an OLED HWFLY chip. It worked at first but now the console won't boot. I might have to just send it back to the guy but he's in the US and I'm in Canada so shipping can be a kind of long and expensive process I was wondering if anyone has any tips on things I could try myself that don't involve soldering.

When I got my Switch back it was able to boot up the first time and mostly worked fine. I was able to launch tinfoil, download some stuff and play some games. The one problem I had was that the joycons kept on losing connection when detached and were often unresponsive (although seemed to be perfect when attached to the console). I saw that the switch had the option to update the joycons so I did that and then tried to restart the console.

After it shut off though, I wasn't able to boot it back up. I've tried removing the SD card, taking off the joycons, holding the power button for over 20 seconds, and the screen still stays completely black. I've attached a video to show off the HWFLY LED lights. Basically they pulse/blink a purple light for about 30 seconds, then quickly blink a yellow/orange light, then that light goes solid, and then the light turns off.

Is it possible that I did something wrong by updating the joycons and is there anything that I could do that doesn't involve soldering to fix this? Or would this have to be an issue with the installation?

Thank you,
Dan
I have the same issue except that you came from joycon update while ive done it several times commong from something that could have make it go to - unable to run software -any game. It happened to me the first time i connected my oled to my laptop and tried copying to the sd card. After rebooting now i have this long slow purple blink follwed by fast blink green/orange. Ive returned my unit to the jailbreak technician and he showed me the unit was able to boot when it arrive he just checked the solders again. when it came back same thing happend when i tried putting games. now im still stuck.
 

jajabinx35

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Is this the thread that tells me to wait on modding my oled switch until a better/updated modchip comes out? Was so close in ordering the hwfly 4.1
 

jajabinx35

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All issues here is due to bad installation not the modchip itself that have problem
Ok thanks for that. I do have a unpatched switch. I need to make a decision if I should just order the hwfly now for my oled as they are avail, or if just wait and see if a updated and better modchip comes out (but the risk of waiting is that what if all modchips suddenly disappear with whatever Nintendo tries next).

I do have soldering skills, but I will probably need to do more practice and get the recommended tools which 'sthetix' recommends (even getting the microscope).

Only other option I have is search around to see if anyone in London can do this for me.
 
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l7777

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Ok thanks for that. I do have a unpatched switch. I need to make a decision if I should just order the hwfly now for my oled as they are avail, or if just wait and see if a updated and better modchip comes out (but the risk of waiting is that what if all modchips suddenly disappear with whatever Nintendo tries next).

I do have soldering skills, but I will probably need to do more practice and get the recommended tools which 'sthetix' recommends (even getting the microscope).

Only other option I have is search around to see if anyone in London can do this for me.
A good soldering Iron and some Amtech tacky flux is key. I used a TS100 based iron & 24v power supply. A V2 can be done sans microscope. OLED can mostly be done without but the D (CLK) point will get sketchy as you won't be able to easily see how much solder mask you've removed.
 
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impeeza

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Ok thanks for that. I do have a unpatched switch. I need to make a decision if I should just order the hwfly now for my oled as they are avail, or if just wait and see if a updated and better modchip comes out (but the risk of waiting is that what if all modchips suddenly disappear with whatever Nintendo tries next).

I do have soldering skills, but I will probably need to do more practice and get the recommended tools which 'sthetix' recommends (even getting the microscope).

Only other option I have is search around to see if anyone in London can do this for me.
Unpatched switchs do not need chipmods. You can use a rcm loader
 
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jajabinx35

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A good soldering Iron and some Amtech tacky flux is key. I used a TS100 based iron & 24v power supply. A V2 can be done sans microscope. OLED can mostly be done without but the D (CLK) point will get sketchy as you won't be able to easily see how much solder mask you've removed.
Thanks, was viewing the ts100 soldering iron and will probably upgrade to this over my current soldering iron

I've purchased the modchip, I'm going to take this really slowly though. I will be buying all the necessary equipment to do this mod. Also, will be getting a few practice boards from China to practice. need to grinder too.
 
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l7777

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Thanks, was viewing the ts100 soldering iron and will probably upgrade to this over my current soldering iron

I've purchased the modchip, I'm going to take this really slowly though. I will be buying all the necessary equipment to do this mod. Also, will be getting a few practice boards from China to practice. need to grinder too.
Good plan, the TS100 was also an upgrade for me and I grabbed a set of 11 different tips for it. I went back and forth between the C1 and JL02 but finally settled on the C1. Some of the larger tips are also fantastic for my work with RC vehicles and other general soldering. I skipped the grinder and just used an Xacto knife. With the microscope it was easy enough to see what I was scratching.
 
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Casual

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Yup got the same light for my oled. Worked for a week and yesterday it happened I was getting Failed to read from Boot0 in tinfoil and the names of the games to download(Teknik shop) weren't appearing just the file names. So I decided to restart it, and it wouldn't start again after I turned off.
Hopefully its just a installation issue I just sent it to a better experienced modder who should be able to fix it for me. Since the original modder has not replied to me, and honestly I'd rather go with the other one since its like the second time there has been an issue with that modder for the switch.
 
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