Major screw up for my phat 360.... Help?

Discussion in 'Xbox 360 - Hacking & Homebrew' started by Nitro187, Mar 3, 2012.

Mar 3, 2012
  1. Nitro187
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    Newcomer Nitro187 Member

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    I was fixing my RROD'd 360, for the second time in 4 years, and my dog ran between my legs while I was re-assembling the CPU X clip, and the DVD drive on the table started to fall, so I flinched, which in turn caused my pliers to SCRAPE along my motherboard completely obliterating one of the transistors on the motherboard. I figured it would be no big deal, because it was part of the USB connection on the bottom... but no... the 360 detected something wrong, and now won't power on at all.

    The culprit is the "D9V2" transistor on the bottom side of the motherboard underneath the USB connectors. There's two, one "D9V1" and "D9V2"... the D9V2 one is the one that not only broke off the motherboard, but snapped in two... one of the pieces getting embedded into my index fingers... ouch.... but I got it out.

    Anyway, after a long search on google, and ebay, I haven't found anything.... short of going out and buying a dead motherboard off ebay, which seems to be around $40 - $50 for 10 of them... no one seems to sell just one!? Plus the shipping costs are astronomical.... is there someone out there that can de-solder off their spart parts board, or just carefully cut out this transistor and send it to me? I'll be willing to pay $5 via paypal to cover shipping costs and your time. Much would be appreciated! Thanks!!
     
  2. FAST6191

    Reporter FAST6191 Techromancer

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    Been there before- fortunately I just had to fix a trace. What model 360/motherboard revision are we looking at- I can not seem to find any decent scans* but I have a few boards around here and can probably drum up some specs to point you at a surface mount components supplier.

    As for the stack of dead boards- people used to sell them to get CPU keys from back when a single CPU key could do online for a day or so. Not sure what they are good for these days.

    * http://i.afterdawn.com/storage/pictures/team_xecuter_rrod_fix_4_lg.jpg (top right of the image) is about as good as I can get and that is not enough to read things on.
     
  3. Nitro187
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    Newcomer Nitro187 Member

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    Here is an actual picture of it... should have posted it with the question, but oh well. :)

    http://i.imgur.com/WMaDb.jpg

    Not sure what the revision is... but it's a 2007 model FOXXCON from what I can remember from what I read on the board... also, it has an HDMI port, which not many of the white 20GB 360's had.... only the newer ones.

    Hope this helps!!
     
  4. DinohScene

    Member DinohScene The Gift of Dino

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    You got a Zephyr model.

    Resoldering that resistor might work but you might want to ask yourself, isn't it better to just buy a "new" Jasper + model?

    Those won't overheat as much as the Zephyrs do.
     
  5. Nitro187
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    Newcomer Nitro187 Member

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    I actually already purchased the new slim... 'holiday bundle'... not sure what model that is, other than the fact that it's a slim. Either way, for one tiny transistor to replace, to get a working system again... I really don't mind spending a bit of time to get it working again, just to have a 360 for the cottage, or something. If it busts again in the future due to overheating, I'll just fix it again. Doesn't take 5 minutes to fix the "RROD" on this thing.
     
  6. FAST6191

    Reporter FAST6191 Techromancer

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    Thanks- A7 surface mount helped drag up what looks to be a replacement ( http://www.datasheetarchive.com/a7%20surface%20mount%20diode-datasheet.html was where I first caught a break).
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=ca&KeyWords=P+AN217U looks to be the part in question (although do check with a multimeter on its mate- the A7 seems to indicate diodes of a different direction as opposed to the others in the series which are same direction) and they have cut tape/singles available for next to nothing.
    I would prefer a hot air/IR station for that but I reckon you could get away with a well tip and maybe a basic soldering iron (if nothing else 360 mask is pretty good as seen in your probably not needing to repair traces*).

    *I would look at the hole around the hole next to D9V2 as it might be a short between what I will accuse of being the ground plane and the through hole (unlike some others around there that hole has a ring of mask around it).
     
  7. Nitro187
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    Newcomer Nitro187 Member

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    Thanks for the link! It's a bit much ($8 to ship a $0.59 part) but hey, i'll take it. I'm going to order a a few, just in case something goes screwy with the solder job. I'm sure it'll be a simple job. Thanks again! Much appreciated! :D

    What were you referring to about the hole around the hole next to the D9V2?
     
  8. FAST6191

    Reporter FAST6191 Techromancer

    pip
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    I would grab a few things from a site like that to balance out shipping- parts from places like those are a fraction of those if you went to the likes of radioshack, frys, maplins or whatever other high street electronics shops are out there. Granted shops like that are like the gadget magazines of old for me.

    As for the hole (you have three pads on the broken component and below that in the image is three holes- I am looking at the middle one) there is a ring of mask around it with no copper and a nice gouge across it- I just wanted to make sure you did not connect the bulk of the trace to that pad/hole when you gouged it.
     
  9. Nitro187
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    Newcomer Nitro187 Member

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    I looked at the picture, I'm assuming you're referring to this hole:

    http://i.imgur.com/a7fcX.png

    And if it does connect the bulk of the trace to the pad\hole... what shall I do?

    Oh yeah, last question. :) Does it matter which one I purchase?:
    DAN217UT106
    DAN217UT106CT-ND
    DAN217UT106DKR-ND

    Thanks again!
     
  10. FAST6191

    Reporter FAST6191 Techromancer

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    Yeah that was the hole (I probably should have ringed it but I was being lazy). As it was not originally connected if indeed it is connected now it would be your job to stop it- try wiping it first with a bit of cloth (chances are it is just the outer layer of mask and will not bother it but assuming such things is not good form) and after that consider breaking out the polishing pad of a rotary tool/dremel before moving to a stanley/craft knife or something.

    Anyhow letters do matter in electronics world and it is always worth paying attention to them. Here though you are lucky and they are all the same part (the numbers you have there are actually digikey order codes) with the differences being because you are playing on a proper/professional electronics site

    DAN217UT106
    This is a reel aimed at those that need them for a large run on a pick and place machine hence the minimum order. It will come from the manufacturer like this hence the cheaper price.

    DAN217UT106CT-ND
    This is cut tape and will probably arrive looking something like http://www.sankyoshoji.com/images/products/reel%20&%20tape%20package.jpg . This is what you want.

    DAN217UT106DKR-ND
    This is a digi reel (various sites try similar concepts) which is a reel but with your chosen number of items on it (although it will come at a premium compared to the cut tape and the original reel) allowing you not to have to pay the 250 odd (this is a simple device but when you are paying several dollars a chip and have to dispose of any extra....) for the reel but still use it in a machine.
     

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