GCN Lifted a pad off my gamecube while installing XenoGC

[CrystalBlister]

Hi guys, I just tried to mod my gamecube with a XenoGC but a bit of solder got under the board causing it to short and also get stuck, when I used a heat gun to get the xeno off to reapply it with a wired connection, one of the pads came off! Heres an image of my gamecube's board now

I tried looking online for alternate points but was unsure which guide to follow because I found one where I'd have to take the board off and flip it over which im a bit worried of ruining a ribbon cable or something, and one where it looks like it was soldered to different points next to the standard traces. I'll post both guides I found here too

Which alternate method is recommended/works best? Thanks in advance.

 

[Shadow#1]

Hi guys, I just tried to mod my gamecube with a XenoGC but a bit of solder got under the board causing it to short and also get stuck, when I used a heat gun to get the xeno off to reapply it with a wired connection, one of the pads came off! Heres an image of my gamecube's board now

View attachment 233640


I tried looking online for alternate points but was unsure which guide to follow because I found one where I'd have to take the board off and flip it over which im a bit worried of ruining a ribbon cable or something, and one where it looks like it was soldered to different points next to the standard traces. I'll post both guides I found here too

View attachment 233641

View attachment 233643

Which alternate method is recommended/works best? Thanks in advance.

Second for novice solder skilled and 3rd for advanced solder skilled

 

[FAST6191]

I don't know if I would do either.

Looks like pad 10 was fully ripped off and pad 1 is flapping in the breeze.
You can glue pad 1 back down.

Pad 10 looks like it connects to the massive fat section behind it with all the vias in it. You could probably go right on a via but more likely just scrape some of the covering off to get back to raw copper and solder to that.

 

[CrystalBlister]

I don't know if I would do either.

Looks like pad 10 was fully ripped off and pad 1 is flapping in the breeze.
You can glue pad 1 back down.

Pad 10 looks like it connects to the massive fat section behind it with all the vias in it. You could probably go right on a via but more likely just scrape some of the covering off to get back to raw copper and solder to that.

If I were to go to a via to replace pad 10 would I just be looking for any that provide a 3.3V output? The second picture I linked sadly doesn't show where that wire should connect and the post I found it from was made in 2011 so I don't think I'll be able to get in contact with that person haha. I'll try to scrape above the pad a bit once I'm home to see if there's any copper I can solder to first, just want to make sure of any contingencies in case that won't work. Thanks for the responses guys

edit: just realised the third picture actually shows an alternative via near the pads that can replace 10, whoops