Hacking It seems there's two different types of RCM jig???

michaelpatko

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gonna be honest, if OP is even still here. the jigs wont damage your switch, carelessness will. any jig will work, it doesnt matter where the pins are, or where you bought it from, just be careful with it. its like the docks scratching peoples switches. never happened to me, bc i am very careful with my switch. dont be stupid, youll be fine :D
Yes, still here. I just inserted a 64GB Sd card, and the darn switch says I need a system update to use the SD card. I think I'm SOL now
 

zxr750j

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Well your first reply was clearly in response to the one in the OP's photo, which is NOT equally safe. If not, why wouldn't you specify and link the one you linked to me? Willing to bet you don't even own an sx jig. I've used both variants in the OP's photos and the white one, sucks.
So the white one doesn't work?
 

The Real Jdbye

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So the white one doesn't work?
People have ruined their right rails with paperclip jigs. They are just too stiff (:creep:) and the pins in the rail are small and fragile.
Wire based jigs are much safer. In theory the SX jig is the safest, because it's custom made for the purpose, with custom metal pins.
 
Last edited by The Real Jdbye,

Le_Zouave

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The Real Jdbye

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For the record guys, the RCMloader One comes with a really solid not-3d-printed jig with proper pins and everything. And for a much lower price than a SX Gear/SX Pro. Paid only $10.69 for mine on AliExpress, it's increased by a dollar now but still really cheap.
It's a pretty good dongle as well, only minus is that the USB-C plug sits loosely in the Switch' USB-C slot, I figure that might be to prevent wear and tear on the Switch, but it means is that I'm never sure if the jig is fully inserted until the payload shows up. That's a really minor thing though, otherwise the quality of this thing seems good, the plastic doesn't feel cheap either, and it definitely has the best looks out of any of the dongles. And I really like that the jig slots onto the dongle otherwise it would be easy to lose since it's so tiny. Pretty happy with the purchase.
 
Last edited by The Real Jdbye,

paulzheng

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- pin 10+1 = commercial jig . you can buy it for just a few euros / dollars ( I have this and never gave a problem )

- pin 10+7 = brand jig ( dongle like : SX OS , Atmosphere NX , r4S ... ecc ecc )

is there any difference between pin 10+1 and 10+7? i heard some type of console is only support jig pin 10+7 into RCM menu. maybe it's a fake information.
 

mikifantastik98

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i heard some type of console is only support jig pin 10+7 into RCM menu. maybe it's a fake information.
bla bla bla ... and yes , maybe you are a fake. not me !!!
study before discrediting other people !!!
look at my jig :
jit 1.jpg jig2.jpg

Happy April Fools' Day !
 
Last edited by mikifantastik98,

RandomTake

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I used a wire from an old 4pin IDE power cable. Ran it from pin 10 up to the heatsink area at the top. Alternative is the screw in center of rail. Works great and no forcing of any pins.
 

Canna

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Wow why are people still recommending the tinfoil method,one slip of that piece of foil can bridge ya pin 4 with another pin and stop either your joycon or switch working.. pin 4 is 5v live.
People will say but i have used the method since the beginning of time, but it only takes one slip to break your shit.. I there for do not recommend it to anyone.

JOYCONPINOUT.JPG
 
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