Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[BaamAlex]

Hello, thank you for reply. That was my guess based on ATSAMD21 datasheet. Still can't get though, what's the difference with pushing the reset button with a magnet on adafruit's trinket vs rcmX86? Would it work if I just use a stronger magnet with rcmX86? And if there any way to see (I guess "no", but anyway) if a modchip is enabled or disabled at the moment? To prevent extra battery drain.

You don't need a magnet for the trinket m0 afaik. Just for the rcm x86 to flash files to it when it is connected with your pc.

 

[Quezacotl]

A reed switch isn't a magnet. A magnet for the reed switch is needed to connect the pins inside the glass. You misunderstood something I would say.

I did not. I know what it is. It's just simplifying. Too many times people are like "what is a reed switch? I have only this what reacts to a magnet".

Hello, thank you for reply. That was my guess based on ATSAMD21 datasheet. Still can't get though, what's the difference with pushing the reset button with a magnet on adafruit's trinket vs rcmX86? Would it work if I just use a stronger magnet with rcmX86? And if there any way to see (I guess "no", but anyway) if a modchip is enabled or disabled at the moment? To prevent extra battery drain.

Hmm... leave the magnet out of the button switch. It's only for the reed switch.

The modchip doesn't use that much power that you would ever notice. And it wakes up only when the console wakes.
Modchip is always enabled, or better to say, always ready to send the payload.

The disabling i was talking about was if you want to boot normally. Just couple of seconds keeping the reset does the trick. And it is not needed normally, because you can do the same from hekate. Mostly just for troubleshooting purposes.

 

[mrdude]

The modchip doesn't use that much power that you would ever notice. And it wakes up only when the console wakes.
Modchip is always enabled, or better to say, always ready to send the payload.

Chip has this code to put it into low power mode, which uses next to zero battery once the payload is sent:

void sleepmode(){
  USB->DEVICE.CTRLA.bit.ENABLE = 0;
  USB->DEVICE.CTRLA.bit.RUNSTDBY = 0;
  SysTick->CTRL &= ~SysTick_CTRL_TICKINT_Msk;
  SCB->SCR |= SCB_SCR_SLEEPDEEP_Msk;
  PM->SLEEP.reg = 2;
  __DSB(); // Ensure effect of last store takes effect 
  __WFI(); // Enter sleep mode
}

Also you can do this just incase it wakes up:

LowPower.sleep();

That should be the only code in the main loop, all other code to send the payload is done before the main loop is ever entered.

 

[Kawaki]

Hey Guy's,
I got a question about the trinket m0.
I install recently one in my switch and when i charge it, the trinket get randomly triggert by it self on some times. Is that Normal?
I connect all wires

 

[Quezacotl]

Hey Guy's,
I got a question about the trinket m0.
I install recently one in my switch and when i charge it, the trinket get randomly triggert by it self on some times. Is that Normal?
I connect all wires

Check installation for cold solders and shorts, on console and the trinket. Also i got same problem one time of bad flashing of .uf2 file which fixed it by flashing again.

 

[Kawaki]

I Install first the Project "sam-fusee-launcher-internal" on the trinket m0 over the Arduino App, than i install this Project with the two UF2 files (i changed of course the pins) because someone on a other Thread said this is better. i that maybe the problem? I see nowhere a tutorial for a factory reset for the trinket

 

[Kawaki]

Check installation for cold solders and shorts, on console and the trinket. Also i got same problem one time of bad flashing of .uf2 file which fixed it by flashing again.

The solder points are good, and i flash several times the two .uf2 files

 

[Quezacotl]

I Install first the Project "sam-fusee-launcher-internal" on the trinket m0 over the Arduino App, than i install this Project with the two UF2 files (i changed of course the pins) because someone on a other Thread said this is better. i that maybe the problem? I see nowhere a tutorial for a factory reset for the trinket

What pin changing? I haven't needed to change any pins on neither hardware or software side..

 

[Kawaki]

I mean the soldering points on the trinket, from the other method.
I changed from this to the new in this forum

 

[Quezacotl]

I mean the soldering points on the trinket, from the other method.
I changed from this to the new in this forum
View attachment 287164

So that other method has different files also i presume? Then you should ask help in that thread instead. This thread if for Switchboot/fusee suite.

 

[Kawaki]

Dude that Picture was the Old method i use, now i use this fusee suite and change the soldering points and files to match with this Project. Sorry if you can´t follow me, english is not my main language

The other Project was: https://github.com/Quantum-cross/sam-fusee-launcher-internal

 

[Diekatzchen]

I have an RCMX86 I got off Tindie a while ago, found this thread while looking at the how-to-install thread. Since it's not already installed, can I just solder some flying wires to it and program it before installing, or is that somehow a bad idea? And if I do, should I even bother with the reed switch?

 

[BaamAlex]

And if I do, should I even bother with the reed switch?

You need the reed switch afaik. With a magnet and a usb connection to "reflash" (I would say?) the chip. If soldered correctly ofc.

 

[Diekatzchen]

You need the reed switch afaik. With a magnet and a usb connection to "reflash" (I would say?) the chip. If soldered correctly ofc.

But can't I put it in uf2 mode using vol+?

 

[BaamAlex]

I dunno how the chip works. But afaik you need a magnet and a pc. Put the magnet on the back of the console (with the chip soldered in). Here a picture which tells you what exactly you have to do.

 

[Diekatzchen]

I dunno how the chip works. But afaik you need a magnet and a pc. Put the magnet on the back of the console (with the chip soldered in). Here a picture which tells you what exactly you have to do.

Yes, but I'm saying that the chip is sitting on my desk, so I don't need the magnet to flash it the first time. And once I have it flashed, I can put it in flash mode without the magnet. So can I forego the magnet or is there some situation where I'd still need it?

 

[BaamAlex]

When you don't need the magnet, I don't see why it should be a bad thing. When it works without, why not?

 

[Quezacotl]

The reed switch connects to the same as the reset button. It's just extra.

 

[MAMUNOZ310]

Hey guys I just wanted to get some more feedback on what I got going with my switch
It’s a v1 bt last owner decided to get a trinket m0 installed via eBay service
I wanted to see if this soldering gust from looking at it will hold up and if I’m told correctly I still have to hold power volume + and use a jig after every reboot?
Also if the chip itself is flashed with a certain payload if I understand correctly, do I need to get it reflashed to use hekate payload? Just need to understand where I’m at because last guy was using it to go straight to sx os

 

[BaamAlex]

Also if the chip itself is flashed with a certain payload if I understand correctly

No. The chip reads a payload from the root of your sd card.

I still have to hold power volume + and use a jig after every reboot?

That's why you install the chip. You don't need the jig when it is soldered in.