Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[LA-]

No, you need a SAMD21 microcontroller modchip, like Trinket M0, Rebug Switchme, RCM-X86 specified in the opening post, there is an uf2 format payload used on the chip allowing payload injection internally.

alright, thx. when I get to it ill definitely return.

 

[coscino]

Thanks again this forum for a great tutorial.
I have just not understood what the vol+strap connection:
-If not connected i will have dual boot?
-If connected what will happen?

 

[Jarmenti]

Just going to add this again here as I had to skim through the entire thread to find this out, If you have any USB connectivity issues after install, (trinket injects fine, but you lost USB connectivity with pc/game controllers) it's directly due to wires being too long for USB D+ and D-. I was racking my brain trying to figure out what was going on. Make sure that the 2 wires going to the USB connection are as short as possible, and use proper wire.

 

[misiozol]

Hi all, been reading this for a while now and getting bit confused. I did install all of 7 cables , for some rason USB disable is not detected did 3 times check all seems to be perfect ? , only get detected vol+ and joycon strange :/ , another thing should console need to have autoRCM enabled in hekate if I have joycon strap connetcted ? as it will not boot otherwise to CFW . final question is can alternative ponts from bottom board be used as equal to ones without complete disassembly as bottom points are much solder friendly all do it makes no diference for me, all has been triple chcecked with even with multimeter still find things bit strange that usb strap is not detected :/

 

[misiozol]

anyone know why it says usb strap not detected, i’ve tried using both points on the motherboard to the trinket and got the same result for both

Have you solved issue, have exact same problem, what soldering points have you used ?

OK so found solution, aparently trinket was incorrectly flashed, was working but not detecting all straps, such a simple thing flashing solved issue, did compare files in hex and there have been major diferences. So if You are 1000% sure of your soldering check if what you have loaded is not corrupted .

 

[JimmyRecard]

Have you solved issue, have exact same problem, what soldering points have you used ?

OK so found solution, aparently trinket was incorrectly flashed, was working but not detecting all straps, such a simple thing flashing solved issue, did compare files in hex and there have been major diferences. So if You are 1000% sure of your soldering check if what you have loaded is not corrupted .

What exactly have you done to solve the issue, of not detecting the USB disconnect strap?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Just going to add this again here as I had to skim through the entire thread to find this out, If you have any USB connectivity issues after install, (trinket injects fine, but you lost USB connectivity with pc/game controllers) it's directly due to wires being too long for USB D+ and D-. I was racking my brain trying to figure out what was going on. Make sure that the 2 wires going to the USB connection are as short as possible, and use proper wire.

What kind of wire did you use for D+ and D-?

 

[LuigiTheHunter]

Sorry guys for the late reply. I actually thought I already answered but obviously I did not, sorry for that.



I thought that as well that's why I tested another display with more or less the same result.



Thanks yeah I overlooked the post. The LCD is responding to touches I tried that. My LCD is lit as well also responding to touches. Actually I think I also have one or maybe two bad pins but it is really really hard to see.

This is a photo of it:
View attachment 262083

How did you @JimmyRecard manage to solve this problem? They are really really small

UPDATE: The connector was switched with a new one, three times now and the display still shows the lines instead of anything else. I don't know where to look anymore, I mean the connector was destroyed obviously but seems like that is not the only problem... However interestingly the display and touchscreen etc. is still working, tried on another switch... :/

I really tried everything that I could come up with now. I even compaired voltages from another switch to mine and they where more or less identical. But somehow I still have the stripes even with the connector repaired!

 

[grcd]

Are there similar schematics for Switch Lite?

 

[misiozol]

What exactly have you done to solve the issue, of not detecting the USB disconnect strap?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



What kind of wire did you use for D+ and D-?

I have used single insulated strand from IDE 44pin connector, for some reason trinked was incorrectly programmed, flashing again solve issue, make sure as well you have correct file for dedicated chip.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

UPDATE: The connector was switched with a new one, three times now and the display still shows the lines instead of anything else. I don't know where to look anymore, I mean the connector was destroyed obviously but seems like that is not the only problem... However interestingly the display and touchscreen etc. is still working, tried on another switch... :/

I really tried everything that I could come up with now. I even compaired voltages from another switch to mine and they where more or less identical. But somehow I still have the stripes even with the connector repaired!

That is icorrect soldering or damaged/pulled track, only way to do it is with microscope and propper soldering hot air/iron station, its on very edge of human capable soldering.

 

[sikskillz]

I haven't read the entire thread, so I don't know if this has already been addressed.

In the picture with the alternate solder points, there is an error at the 3.3v points. The one on the right causes error 2101-0001, the switch will not start.

I used that point and have that error now with trinket removed how did you fix it

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Would replacing m92t36 fix the 2101-0001 error caused by using the right alt point for 3v

 

[HollowGrams]

I used that point and have that error now with trinket removed how did you fix it

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Would replacing m92t36 fix the 2101-0001 error caused by using the right alt point for 3v

Yes replacing m92t36 will fix it. I just fixed this on a few Switches.

 

[xdMatthewbx]

I've just installed my Trinket M0 using alt points for 3.3V and VOL+ strap on the back of the board. When the connections on the Trinket side are removed the device boots without issue. I'm currently attempting to take high resolution images of the board (and by that I mean find a good camera to so so). Until I can get those, what is likely the culprit? I will also test to see if the switch has entered RCM momentarily. All solder joints were checked for continuity. I'll have a better idea once I check it it's actually entering RCM.

EDIT: No USB device shows when plugged in. I forgot to mention above I'm also using the GND alt point just under where the trinket is mounted. I've also redone the USB strap (orange wire) to use the alt point on the back of the board. Still no luck. Switch still boots fine without connections to the trinket.

 

[misiozol]

To reply to your question, there are masive amount of clones and they have issue of programming, have done now few of those and each one had strange issues from: not booting, booting to OFW, showing random straps fited where all were fitted, unable to program, unable to go to update mode, had to desolder power and use external psu to force it to go program mode, etc.. Becasue of those crappy clones in my rush of multiple time disassebly did damage to LCD connector and had to replace it there are cheap but pain to replace. Sumarize if you are 100% sure of your soldering do load few times part one and two ending up with propper one it's all guessing game when programming now days. I do use alternate points in back vol+,joycon,power, front I use usb strap,gnd near usb-c connector (needs 60w soldering station and 400*C setting as its deep multilayer GND point to be properly soldered) and usb tx/rx . How did you went from back to front with cables ?

 

[xdMatthewbx]

To reply to your question, there are masive amount of clones and they have issue of programming, have done now few of those and each one had strange issues from: not booting, booting to OFW, showing random straps fited where all were fitted, unable to program, unable to go to update mode, had to desolder power and use external psu to force it to go program mode, etc.. Becasue of those crappy clones in my rush of multiple time disassebly did damage to LCD connector and had to replace it there are cheap but pain to replace. Sumarize if you are 100% sure of your soldering do load few times part one and two ending up with propper one it's all guessing game when programming now days. I do use alternate points in back vol+,joycon,power, front I use usb strap,gnd near usb-c connector (needs 60w soldering station and 400*C setting as its deep multilayer GND point to be properly soldered) and usb tx/rx . How did you went from back to front with cables ?

Right now its not fully mounted but I have the cables going around where the fan usually is for VOL+ & 3.3V. JoyCon strap goes around the left of the board where the non-alt point is. I'm going to redo the GND connection since I've been at 330 for all of these so that's a good theory.

If it's not that then I have to assume it's the Trinket itself. I at first suspected the USB points but I've redone those like 3 times now (albeit I'll admit I'm not a seasoned solderer so I could just be doing a bad job. It could be sending a packet but corrupted which could explain why it doesn't show as an RCM device when plugged in). Everything else that's essential I've double checked, redone, and tried booting without it being connected and its behaved as one would assume it should in that scenario.

Another reason to suspect the Trinket itself is the fact that when its powered on the debug mode (holding VOL+ to enter like UF2 mode and such) doesn't work (that or the LED doesn't want to turn on? Turns on when I connect it to my PC via the Micro USB port though...).

On the contrary to the above though, when I plug it in to my PC it acts as it's supposed to, and it properly renamed the drive in UF2 flash mode to SWITCHBOOT so I'm thinking the GND & USB points are the more likely culprit.

As for images a top-down view won't be enough to diagnose, especially for the GND & USB connections. I'll try to get good images though.

 

[misiozol]

Only GND near usb-c needs high power and temp, another for high power is point alt 3.3V on other side but you ait using it so no diference. If it boots and faults are totally random and making no sense then 99% it's trinket . Can you get to preloader menu when holding loong power ? do you get count down ? Only culprit could be GND used but you have connection, so: reflash, reflash, reflash. part one and two in random order. Whats funny last one i did did not took name CURRENT but it flashed correctly with name TRINKET and had to use flash file from rebug to flash preloader wrong way it gave me error so could not get to flash mode, however did desolder power > connected external psu with usb pluged to pc did apply power pc noticed usb mass memory from solid red that became green in few seconds flashed proper preloader for trinket and viola works, that is trully some wierd sh!t.

 

[xdMatthewbx]

Only GND near usb-c needs high power and temp, another for high power is point alt 3.3V on other side but you ait using it so no diference. If it boots and faults are totally random and making no sense then 99% it's trinket . Can you get to preloader menu when holding loong power ? do you get count down ? Only culprit could be GND used but you have connection, so: reflash, reflash, reflash. part one and two in random order. Whats funny last one i did did not took name CURRENT but it flashed correctly with name TRINKET and had to use flash file from rebug to flash preloader wrong way it gave me error so could not get to flash mode, however did desolder power > connected external psu with usb pluged to pc did apply power pc noticed usb mass memory from solid red that became green in few seconds flashed proper preloader for trinket and viola works, that is trully some wierd sh!t.

Looked to me like it flashed properly. Is there any way to test if it's the Trinket so I can rule out it or my shitty soldering skills?

 

[misiozol]

Check if there is continuity from alt points to trinket each point has double/alt point, as well check if none is shorted, if there is connection you can rule out soldering skils

 

[xdMatthewbx]

Check if there is continuity from alt points to trinket each point has double/alt point, as well check if none is shorted, if there is connection you can rule out soldering skils

I'm not sure what to check for shorts since with the alt points I'm using I'm not soldering to any capacitors, only contacts on the board. Where can one get a Rebug SwitchME M0? I can't find one online and it looks preferable to the trinket for someone who doesn't have much experience soldering.

 

[Hayato213]

I'm not sure what to check for shorts since with the alt points I'm using I'm not soldering to any capacitors, only contacts on the board. Where can one get a Rebug SwitchME M0? I can't find one online and it looks preferable to the trinket for someone who doesn't have much experience soldering.

When he meant short he meant if you solder all the connection correctly, if you have no continuity between two point then you have a short.

 

[xdMatthewbx]

When he meant short he meant if you solder all the connection correctly, if you have no continuity between two point then you have a short.

Ah yes I was already continuity checking all my points. Turns out that wasn't the issue, me being an idiot was (in my defense I've been very upfront with me having very little soldering experience). All working now. Thanks for wasting your time trying to help me when I was being an idiot.