Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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Marax

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Ive wired up my RCM X86 but now in Horizon the Right Joycon doesnt work on the Console. I think its because of Pin 10 is shorted can anybody help me?
 
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mattytrog

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@mrdude Cheers for that! Will check it out.

Ive wired up my RCM X86 but now in Horizon the Right Joycon doesnt work on the Console. I think its because of Pin 10 is shorted can anybody help me?

Guessing you are following the RCMX86 diagram rather then the one in the OP...

Let me guess: Joycon wire going to D0(the far left one on the chip).

This is wrong. Please refer to the graphic in OP.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Hi

I mean what is the benefit of connecting the pin 2 to the usb dizconect strap point ?

Thanks for all answer

It resets the chip upon disconnect from USB, pushing payload. Otherwise, you would remain in RCM.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

@mrdude

I am completely rewriting all of my mods for Hekate.

Full 8.1.0 support
There is now a fully operational file browser
Create backups / emuMMC from any location
Extra Hekate debug features (minerva / fuel gauge / batt cfg) enabled by default

Removed some unused features to conserve space:
Screenshot (who the fook uses it?)


More being done...

All other features you expect...

Had to be done. Switchboot v1.3.x was not the most efficient.

Stack space was always a squash.

So, keep an eye out for Switchboot 1.4.0 in next couple of days.

Right off to mow the lawn before it pisses it down.
 
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mrdude

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@mattytrog - looking forward to checking it out, no rush though, just when you feel the urge and get time.

Here's the updated source code for argon-nx mod. (no need to post sd card files as you already have them).
 

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mrdude

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@mattytrog, Since you're doing a re-write and now emunand is a thing for everyone. A good Idea would be to add a 'safe mode/toggle titles' - which would rename the titles folder in SXOS and Atmosphere to 'titles.bak' or something like that. That way when people are using themes or modules that don't work on all firmwares they can quickly hit a button or something to see if that's the issue with causing the nand/emunand to not boot properly.
Now it's not a problem if your switch boots - but if you're out and about with no access to a laptop or a way to access the micro sd card and want to switch nands and forgot to remove your custom theme's etc - this would be useful.

Just saying - but obviously it's your software, It's just a suggestion and nothing more.

Thanks.
 

ZerOneX

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Sorry to disturb you guys again with such n00b questions, but I am trying to figure out my best option here as I do not have ANYMORE all my soldering tools.... just have some.

I checked the VOL+ soldering point and, my gosh... it is very small and just an small error will damage the resistor for sure...

After that I am reconsidering few things....

If I keep using the AUTORCM, I would not have to solder those two points (JOYCON and VOL+ straps)... so far so good.

But talking from the chipset perspective.... which would be my best choices... which bootloader/payload should I use instead...

Before, I just flashed my trinket with: Part 1 (Bootloader) - SWITCHBOOT_TRINKET_JOYCON_VOLUME and Part 2 (Payload) - TRINKET_SWITCHBOOT_PART2_V135a

Thank you guys... really.

Regards,

ZerO.
 

mattytrog

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Sorry to disturb you guys again with such n00b questions, but I am trying to figure out my best option here as I do not have ANYMORE all my soldering tools.... just have some.

I checked the VOL+ soldering point and, my gosh... it is very small and just an small error will damage the resistor for sure...

After that I am reconsidering few things....

If I keep using the AUTORCM, I would not have to solder those two points (JOYCON and VOL+ straps)... so far so good.

But talking from the chipset perspective.... which would be my best choices... which bootloader/payload should I use instead...

Before, I just flashed my trinket with: Part 1 (Bootloader) - SWITCHBOOT_TRINKET_JOYCON_VOLUME and Part 2 (Payload) - TRINKET_SWITCHBOOT_PART2_V135a

Thank you guys... really.

Regards,

ZerO.

In your case, what I would do, I'm assuming you arent bothered about fuses)...

Update to 8.1.0 stock... Burn your fuses. No reason to stay on lower fuses with a modchip...

Then... Have it dual boot. Solder joycon only.

Then use the part 1 joycon only file for your chip.

Then you just power on normally, or hold vol+ and power on for cfw.

Payload? Use fusee-uf2 v3.

Then run whatever you like from SD.

The only things you will lose by doing all this, is the extra chip options that are only accessible with a press of vol+. Ie choose payload1.bin, payload2.bin etc via hardware and adjust led brightness and a couple more things.
You could always fit a switch or a wire somewhere if you were that bothered.

But these things are absolutely NOT REQUIRED to run any payload or boot in any way... They are just extra toys for the MCU freaks among us.

Once fusee uf2 is flashed, choose your payload, any bin file, throw it on SD and you are done.
 
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kylum

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@mattytrog So with the introduction of EmuMMC what/ if any options do those of us have that are still on the four wire and utilizing AutoRCM have?

I read somewhere (can’t find it again) that 7.x/8.x breaks AutoRCM, let me know if I’m mistaken! I’m still on 5.1.0 and personally have not had the need to update until now. I really like having AutoRCM and the idea of not burning fuses(have 4.1.0 fuse count). I really don’t want to open the switch up again to solder all straps, I’m lazy but I do have above average soldering skills.

Thanks in advance
 

mattytrog

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@mattytrog So with the introduction of EmuMMC what/ if any options do those of us have that are still on the four wire and utilizing AutoRCM have?

I read somewhere (can’t find it again) that 7.x/8.x breaks AutoRCM, let me know if I’m mistaken! I’m still on 5.1.0 and personally have not had the need to update until now. I really like having AutoRCM and the idea of not burning fuses(have 4.1.0 fuse count). I really don’t want to open the switch up again to solder all straps, I’m lazy but I do have above average soldering skills.

Thanks in advance
OK...
Autorcm is not broken in any firmware.

All your options remain the same sir

The 4 wire install is still fine.
 
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kylum

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Thanks. I remember reading that you couldn’t have Hekate load stock on 8.x. Or Crap... Which isn’t broken AutoRCM, sorry that’s what I meant . I’m guessing that’s BS or Hekate just needed an update at the time of me reading that..
 

ZerOneX

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In your case, what I would do, I'm assuming you arent bothered about fuses)...

Update to 8.1.0 stock... Burn your fuses. No reason to stay on lower fuses with a modchip...

Then... Have it dual boot. Solder joycon only.

Then use the part 1 joycon only file for your chip.

Then you just power on normally, or hold vol+ and power on for cfw.

Payload? Use fusee-uf2 v3.

Then run whatever you like from SD.

The only things you will lose by doing all this, is the extra chip options that are only accessible with a press of vol+. Ie choose payload1.bin, payload2.bin etc via hardware and adjust led brightness and a couple more things.
You could always fit a switch or a wire somewhere if you were that bothered.

But these things are absolutely NOT REQUIRED to run any payload or boot in any way... They are just extra toys for the MCU freaks among us.

Once fusee uf2 is flashed, choose your payload, any bin file, throw it on SD and you are done.

Matt, it came to my mind yday, instead soldering directly on the resistor (vol+) I could sold it directly on the connector pin.

As far as I could see, it is a much more reliable and solid point.

It brought me on track again to use the new universal method with both stripes.

What do you think?

Cheers mate.

Have a good one.
 

Marax

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I pressed Vol + before i know that it deletes the Uf2. Now when i press the Power Button it brings me into RCM and dont start any kind of Payload.
But i can manually inject a payload with PC. I dissasembled my Switch and soldered the magnetical switch between the Rst and GND on my RCM-x86 then i used the Tegra Smash from PC to boot into Atmosphere. Then i used the Magnet but the Chip doesnt goes into RCM mode ...

Anyone knows an Answer?
 

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I just restored my 7.0.1 NAND and booted stock firmware. Signed in and downloaded the 8.0.1 firmware and installed it. After that i got a popup that i had to restart my device. Because i have no sd card inserted it boots switchboot (v1.3.4 / hekate v4.10.1) directly. But when i pick "Reboot (Normal)" i get stuck in a black screen. How do i boot into horizon.. :/
 

mrdude

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I just restored my 7.0.1 NAND and booted stock firmware. Signed in and downloaded the 8.0.1 firmware and installed it. After that i got a popup that i had to restart my device. Because i have no sd card inserted it boots switchboot (v1.3.4 / hekate v4.10.1) directly. But when i pick "Reboot (Normal)" i get stuck in a black screen. How do i boot into horizon.. :/

If you have auto rcm enabled, disable it - then you should be able to boot into Horizon properly.
 

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I have never enabled auto rcm. I've always used both straps and used autoboot by the chip itself.

edit:

I desoldered the "volume up" strap so i could avoid the auto boot by the chip. And Horizon boots fine that way. Am i doing something stupid? How do i boot to Horizon with both straps enabled?
 
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mrdude

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I have never enabled auto rcm. I've always used both straps and used autoboot by the chip itself.

edit:

I desoldered the "volume up" strap so i could avoid the auto boot by the chip. And Horizon boots fine that way. Am i doing something stupid? How do i boot to Horizon with both straps enabled?

Depends on what payload you are using on your chip - I use Argon-NX mod on mine and don't have issues, I needed to mod the code as the panic code that was being sent was blocking Horizon OS from loading - maybe on never versions of the software (if using mattytrog's software), he's modded this so it works, but you'll need to ask him. Or someone else that's using that software with the same chip wiring as you have. If you have AutoRCM enabled though in Firmware - panic code will already be sent and trying to get to Horizon to run from a payload doesn't work (unless you mod the code).
 

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Is there an advantage of one chip over another? I got the Trinket m0 as it seems to be the most popular one and will probably install it tomorrow.
 

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