Tutorial Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

uniquetusk

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Hello. I got an RCM X86 chip installed by a third party person. Chip look pretty much like this one - https://ae04.alicdn.com/kf/Hce9425699d3a49b4b915e87a80fe10a9V/RCMX86-Auto-RCM-SX-OS-NS-Switch.jpg

I'm not that much satisfied though. I used rcm jig & payload injector for years and I always got cfw loaded. With chip I get maybe 80% of success when I switch from stock fw to atmo. But, if i try to shutdown from atmo & then push power & vol+ to get back to atmosphere from powered off state I almost always get stuck in a mode similar to RCM zombie mode which I had back when I used AutoRCM. I don't have hardware to check, but a person who installed that chip to me said switch drains battery in this state just like in RCM, however, I cannot push payload from there, I had to push the power button for 10-15 seconds & then it boots back to atmo from there with power & vol+ pressed.
In fusee suite I can see it says joycon and volume+ straps detected even though a person who did the job said he didn't solder vol+, and he doesn't know what may cause this behaviour. What could be the issue here?
 

MaxiBus

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Hello. I got an RCM X86 chip installed by a third party person. Chip look pretty much like this one - https://ae04.alicdn.com/kf/Hce9425699d3a49b4b915e87a80fe10a9V/RCMX86-Auto-RCM-SX-OS-NS-Switch.jpg

I'm not that much satisfied though. I used rcm jig & payload injector for years and I always got cfw loaded. With chip I get maybe 80% of success when I switch from stock fw to atmo. But, if i try to shutdown from atmo & then push power & vol+ to get back to atmosphere from powered off state I almost always get stuck in a mode similar to RCM zombie mode which I had back when I used AutoRCM. I don't have hardware to check, but a person who installed that chip to me said switch drains battery in this state just like in RCM, however, I cannot push payload from there, I had to push the power button for 10-15 seconds & then it boots back to atmo from there with power & vol+ pressed.
In fusee suite I can see it says joycon and volume+ straps detected even though a person who did the job said he didn't solder vol+, and he doesn't know what may cause this behaviour. What could be the issue here?
Bad install, i see it very often, sold from local second hand markets. Only way to fix this is to bring it to a professional.
 

Quezacotl

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Hello. I got an RCM X86 chip installed by a third party person. Chip look pretty much like this one - https://ae04.alicdn.com/kf/Hce9425699d3a49b4b915e87a80fe10a9V/RCMX86-Auto-RCM-SX-OS-NS-Switch.jpg

I'm not that much satisfied though. I used rcm jig & payload injector for years and I always got cfw loaded. With chip I get maybe 80% of success when I switch from stock fw to atmo. But, if i try to shutdown from atmo & then push power & vol+ to get back to atmosphere from powered off state I almost always get stuck in a mode similar to RCM zombie mode which I had back when I used AutoRCM. I don't have hardware to check, but a person who installed that chip to me said switch drains battery in this state just like in RCM, however, I cannot push payload from there, I had to push the power button for 10-15 seconds & then it boots back to atmo from there with power & vol+ pressed.
In fusee suite I can see it says joycon and volume+ straps detected even though a person who did the job said he didn't solder vol+, and he doesn't know what may cause this behaviour. What could be the issue here?
If you don't have vol+ strap installed, then don't attempt to use it. What you are doing is getting into rcm mode, while you should let the chip do that for you.
Maybe you have made permanent rcm wiring on right joycon ages ago or the modchip installed made that internal, so then it always goes to rcm with power+vol+.
What i suggest is to just drop permacfw(part1) on the chip and install newest hekate so it autoboots to hekate when you press the power button. There you can just click atmosphere or stock or whatever.
 
Last edited by Quezacotl,

lufeig

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thanks to @mattytrog and every one who contributed to this thread.

i have just installed a trinket m0 on my v1 switch (erista) following the instructions found here.

IMG_1336.jpeg
tempImagedHZwfj.png
 

Jarmenti

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If you use the alternate points on the back of the board and route the wires around under the foam area by the fan (they won't get pinched here at all) you can get a really clean looking install. Hot glue works good to secure wires to the pcb and can be peeled away if need be.
251291245_172839118385218_4823401496745470940_n.jpg

251544780_394565132340457_5294076126541532635_n.jpg
 

Jarmenti

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There's definitely a fresh dab of arctic mx under the cpu cooler that you can't see. The shielding does almost nothing for thermals as 99% of the cooling is done via the heatpipe to the heatsink, it's main purpose is for RF compliance. I have the shield cut nicely around the trinket on my other switch though, just didn't get around to cutting out another for this one yet.
250868343_209210514620579_3847744114789288328_n.jpg
 

popy

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I have used single insulated strand from IDE 44pin connector, for some reason trinked was incorrectly programmed, flashing again solve issue, make sure as well you have correct file for dedicated chip.

Also had the same issue that the USB strap was not detected.
Reprogramming solved it also for me!
Soldering was 100% ok, HW engineer here with proper soldering station + microscope and 20 years skills B-)

I think i know whats was wrong:
Before i have prepared/flashed the trinket without beeing soldered into the switch.
So the trinket was booted up before and hasn't detected the strap.
The strap detection runs obviously just once after flashing.

Reflashing after soldering has it also solved for me.

Thanks a lot.
 

uniquetusk

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Hello again sirs, thanks for your suggestions. May I ask you one more question. In the package with the modchip for V1 switch that I got, aside from the modchip itself, I had a magnetic reed switch included. What is it for? Is it supposed to be used just for modchip firmware upgrade or is it supposed to be used in a way similar to 3ds magnethax? I had my chip installed without it.
 

Quezacotl

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That magnet switch is for use as the reset button. Double tap that spot on the back panel with a magnet to get to download mode, or disable the modchip by holding the magnet there.
I prefer pushing the reset button through the back panel, which is very easy with adafruit trinket. Rcmx86 would need something to raise it closer.
 
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BaamAlex

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That magnet switch is for use as the reset button. Double tap that spot on the back panel with a magnet to get to download mode, or disable the modchip by holding the magnet there.
I prefer pushing the reset button through the back panel, which is very easy with adafruit trinket. Rcmx86 would need something to raise it closer.
A reed switch isn't a magnet. A magnet for the reed switch is needed to connect the pins inside the glass. You misunderstood something I would say.
 

uniquetusk

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That magnet switch is for use as the reset button. Double tap that spot on the back panel with a magnet to get to download mode, or disable the modchip by holding the magnet there.
I prefer pushing the reset button through the back panel, which is very easy with adafruit trinket. Rcmx86 would need something to raise it closer.
Hello, thank you for reply. That was my guess based on ATSAMD21 datasheet. Still can't get though, what's the difference with pushing the reset button with a magnet on adafruit's trinket vs rcmX86? Would it work if I just use a stronger magnet with rcmX86? And if there any way to see (I guess "no", but anyway) if a modchip is enabled or disabled at the moment? To prevent extra battery drain.
 
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