Tutorial Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

guyman70718

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You can reflash the chip and should boot CFW by default or change boot order ofw/cfw by holding vol + when switch is on - release as soon as red light on trinket stops 2 flash. Quick purple light at end means you switched. Repeat to switch boot order.

Can also be soldering.
I figured it out, the resistor for the vol+ was burnt out. I replaced it and am now using autorcm instead of vol+ strap to prevent it from happening.
 

abadidea

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You can remove the button (but you’ll have no way of pushing or getting it into different modes unless you rewire it or pull it to ground.

it works on all versions (as long as switch is capable of rcm)

it just injects a payload and/or puts it into rcm mode (depending on what you have wired up)
 

MysticMinion

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So once setup I wouldn't really need the button? Also with the wiring diagram shown with all wires, holding vol + and power, it will boot into cfw without needing autorcm or a jig and runs fully of the switch battery on only stays on to boot right? Will this affect battery life and is the payload updatable without needing to open the switch?
 

Hayato213

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So once setup I wouldn't really need the button? Also with the wiring diagram shown with all wires, holding vol + and power, it will boot into cfw without needing autorcm or a jig and runs fully of the switch battery on only stays on to boot right? Will this affect battery life and is the payload updatable without needing to open the switch?

You need the push button to update the uf2 on the trinket m0, you can remove the usb port, but leave the push button alone, never seen anyone remove the push button, you need a jig if you did old method, the 7 wires method you can dual boots with proper configuration.
 

MysticMinion

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Is there an updated guide I can follow? getting confused whether files are for sx ox stuff or for unpatched switch dual booting which is what I want to do
 

Hayato213

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Is there an updated guide I can follow? getting confused whether files are for sx ox stuff or for unpatched switch dual booting which is what I want to do

This thread is for unpatched, not SX Core/SX Lite. You need an unpatched unit first not a patched or mariko, or switch lite.
 

MysticMinion

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I've ordered the Trinket M0 I just have a couple of questions. I have no idea if I've misread stuff or missed anything.

What does the wire need to be rated for?
Can I use multistrand wire from an ethernet cable I can salvage?
To flash the board does I just press the button twice and drag and drop the FUSEE SUITE TRINKET UF2 then the TRINKET UF2?
Can I still update the payload on the trinket inside the switch without opening it?
Is it possible to remove the button afterward and still update the trinket inside the switch?
Is M3 double-sided tape fine to stop shorts and hold the trinket to the heatsink?
And should it be mounted onto Kapton tape or straight onto the heatsink
Does the trinket stay on while the switch is off?
If I was to turn the volume of the switch up would the trinket keep trying to enter rcm while on?
When updating my switch later on all that needs updating is the payload for Hekate and the rest is on the sd card, right?
Does the switch charge the same as stock?
And finally, can the switch still dock?

Also, I saw some people were complaining about USB disconnect not letting them charge and various other issues is this still a problem?

Thanks
 
Last edited by MysticMinion,

MysticMinion

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I've ordered the Trinket M0 I just have a couple of questions. I have no idea if I've misread stuff or missed anything.

What does the wire need to be rated for?
Can I use multistrand wire from an ethernet cable I can salvage?
To flash the board does I just press the button twice and drag and drop the FUSEE SUITE TRINKET UF2 then the TRINKET UF2?
Can I still update the payload on the trinket inside the switch without opening it?
Is it possible to remove the button afterward and still update the trinket inside the switch?
Is M3 double-sided tape fine to stop shorts and hold the trinket to the heatsink?
And should it be mounted onto Kapton tape or straight onto the heatsink
Does the trinket stay on while the switch is off?
If I was to turn the volume of the switch up would the trinket keep trying to enter rcm while on?
When updating my switch later on all that needs updating is the payload for Hekate and the rest is on the sd card, right?
Does the switch charge the same as stock?
And finally, can the switch still dock?

Also, I saw some people were complaining about USB disconnect not letting them charge and various other issues is this still a problem?

Thanks
 

Hayato213

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I've ordered the Trinket M0 I just have a couple of questions. I have no idea if I've misread stuff or missed anything. Thanks

What does the wire need to be rated for?
you need AWG40 if possible, if not use AWG30

Can I use multistrand wire from an ethernet cable I can salvage?
No

To flash the board does I just press the button twice and drag and drop the FUSEE SUITE TRINKET UF2 then the TRINKET UF2?
You pick one of them, fusee suite, or swtichboot, you don't mix them, you drag and drop part 1 and then drag and drop part 2 in uf2 mode.

Can I still update the payload on the trinket inside the switch without opening it?
Is it possible to remove the button afterward and still update the trinket inside the switch?

It has been explain to you don't remove the reset button it is it purpose.

Is M3 double-sided tape fine to stop shorts and hold the trinket to the heatsink?
And should it be mounted onto Kapton tape or straight onto the heatsink

You should use kapton tape or even better electrical tape.

Does the trinket stay on while the switch is off?
The trinket doesn't consume enough power, I have one the led is always on, as the LED was never removed.

If I was to turn the volume of the switch up would the trinket keep trying to enter rcm while on?
No

When updating my switch later on all that needs updating is the payload for Hekate and the rest is on the sd card, right?

payload on the modchip is different than the one on the SD card, I would just update the one on the SD card instead.

Does the switch charge the same as stock?
And finally, can the switch still dock?
Yes it work fine if you solder it correctly, and yes you can dock.


Also, I saw some people were complaining about USB disconnect not letting them charge and various other issues is this still a problem?

D+/D- and ground affect this, proper ground soldering is important, you might struggle to get into uf2 update mode when ground is poorly soldered, good luck if this is your first time at soldering, hire someone else to do it.
 
Last edited by Hayato213,

MysticMinion

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you need AWG40 if possible, if not use AWG30

can this be enameled copper wire and does it need to be single-core if it's insulated

im guessing the single-core would be better as it will hold its shape when bended better
 

jesterscourt

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Alright I'm totally lost.

I had Trinket installed on a launch Switch. Worked fine, something happened (probably while fooling with the SD card using a Mac, and then trying to clean it up, to no avail. Can someone point me to an SD card setup that will work? Here's how it worked before:

Power by itself -> OFW (9.1)
Power and Vol+ -> CFW (Hekate I believe into Atmosphere with Emunand)

I can still get into OFW, but Power and Vol+ goes to a black screen.

I just got a RCM Loader and a jig, if that will help at all.
 

Hayato213

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Alright I'm totally lost.

I had Trinket installed on a launch Switch. Worked fine, something happened (probably while fooling with the SD card using a Mac, and then trying to clean it up, to no avail. Can someone point me to an SD card setup that will work? Here's how it worked before:

Power by itself -> OFW (9.1)
Power and Vol+ -> CFW (Hekate I believe into Atmosphere with Emunand)

I can still get into OFW, but Power and Vol+ goes to a black screen.

I just got a RCM Loader and a jig, if that will help at all.

See other thread, I explain it over there.
 

DevilBlackDeath

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Hello everyone,
New here :) I recently decided to mod my switch. Initially it was a softmod but after discovering softmods forced you to push payloads again when switching between SysNAND and EmuNAND even when using autoRCM I've looked up some more and discovered this thread and multiple other sites doing this same tutorial as well.

My goal is to have a functional dual boot without external input (at least no external input once the mod is done, and outside of the necessary updates through SAMD21 update mode or whatever it's called) and without autoRCM

So first of all, am I right to understand that once wired correctly, this mod actually lets you get into RCM and push payloads from the chip without a jig or anything like that ? I also couldn't understand the point of the Vol+ strap. Without it I only get dual boot, but what do I get with it ? Personally I only need dual boot, one on official SysNAND, the other one being Hekate to launch anything else (which I'll probably configure to autoboot by default to an Atmosphere EmuMMC). So for my needs I'd only need to wire the Joycon strap to have no need for a jig right ? Or is the Joycon strap for something else entirely ? If I understood correctly what I asked in my first question, which solderS is/are responsible of letting you go to RCM without jigs/autoRCM ? And if I got that correctly as well, all solders are mandatory except the Joycon strap and Vol+ strap ?

If I should create my own separate topic please do tell me, I just felt like this was the best place as this is the specific mod I'm planning to do (with an Adafruit Trinket).

Thanks in advance everyone :)
 

Arakon

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Correct. By default, you basically just power it on and it boots directly into CFW. You can either use the vol+ strap to dual boot, or use i.e. Hekate to set up multiple boot scenarios and change via a menu.
The Joycon strap IS mandatory if you don't want to use a jig.
 

DevilBlackDeath

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Correct. By default, you basically just power it on and it boots directly into CFW. You can either use the vol+ strap to dual boot, or use i.e. Hekate to set up multiple boot scenarios and change via a menu.
The Joycon strap IS mandatory if you don't want to use a jig.
Ah so without the Vol+ strap I don't get any dual booting ? Or well, at least not witout Hekate. Is there any way to set a dual autoboot in Hekate ? Maybe by holding Vol- while Hekate starts as opposed to not holding anything else ?

Thanks a lot for the answer by the way :)

Edit : Ah just saw the alt points and it would seem like a lot of them would make my life MUCH easier for the small points (namely 3V, Joycon and Vol+). Would disassembling the switch to have access to those be easier than soldering to those very small contacts and resistors.
 
Last edited by DevilBlackDeath,
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