Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[guyman70718]

You can reflash the chip and should boot CFW by default or change boot order ofw/cfw by holding vol + when switch is on - release as soon as red light on trinket stops 2 flash. Quick purple light at end means you switched. Repeat to switch boot order.

Can also be soldering.

I figured it out, the resistor for the vol+ was burnt out. I replaced it and am now using autorcm instead of vol+ strap to prevent it from happening.

 

[khuong]

You can remove the button (but you’ll have no way of pushing or getting it into different modes unless you rewire it or pull it to ground.

it works on all versions (as long as switch is capable of rcm)

it just injects a payload and/or puts it into rcm mode (depending on what you have wired up)

 

[MysticMinion]

Do I need to be able to push it though?

 

[Hayato213]

Can you remove the push button from the trinket and does this work with 13.0.0, Also is there a discord for this topic

The push button is needed to enter storage menu for the chip, trinket m0 work regardless of firmware on unpatched unit.

 

[MysticMinion]

So once setup I wouldn't really need the button? Also with the wiring diagram shown with all wires, holding vol + and power, it will boot into cfw without needing autorcm or a jig and runs fully of the switch battery on only stays on to boot right? Will this affect battery life and is the payload updatable without needing to open the switch?

 

[Hayato213]

So once setup I wouldn't really need the button? Also with the wiring diagram shown with all wires, holding vol + and power, it will boot into cfw without needing autorcm or a jig and runs fully of the switch battery on only stays on to boot right? Will this affect battery life and is the payload updatable without needing to open the switch?

You need the push button to update the uf2 on the trinket m0, you can remove the usb port, but leave the push button alone, never seen anyone remove the push button, you need a jig if you did old method, the 7 wires method you can dual boots with proper configuration.

 

[MysticMinion]

Is there an updated guide I can follow? getting confused whether files are for sx ox stuff or for unpatched switch dual booting which is what I want to do

 

[Hayato213]

Is there an updated guide I can follow? getting confused whether files are for sx ox stuff or for unpatched switch dual booting which is what I want to do

This thread is for unpatched, not SX Core/SX Lite. You need an unpatched unit first not a patched or mariko, or switch lite.

 

[MysticMinion]

Yeah my switch is already modded but I'm sick of using injectors

 

[Hayato213]

Yeah my switch is already modded but I'm sick of using injectors

Then solder a modchip, if you can't solder hire someone, diagram is in the first page.

 

[MysticMinion]

I've ordered the Trinket M0 I just have a couple of questions. I have no idea if I've misread stuff or missed anything.

What does the wire need to be rated for?
Can I use multistrand wire from an ethernet cable I can salvage?
To flash the board does I just press the button twice and drag and drop the FUSEE SUITE TRINKET UF2 then the TRINKET UF2?
Can I still update the payload on the trinket inside the switch without opening it?
Is it possible to remove the button afterward and still update the trinket inside the switch?
Is M3 double-sided tape fine to stop shorts and hold the trinket to the heatsink?
And should it be mounted onto Kapton tape or straight onto the heatsink
Does the trinket stay on while the switch is off?
If I was to turn the volume of the switch up would the trinket keep trying to enter rcm while on?
When updating my switch later on all that needs updating is the payload for Hekate and the rest is on the sd card, right?
Does the switch charge the same as stock?
And finally, can the switch still dock?

Also, I saw some people were complaining about USB disconnect not letting them charge and various other issues is this still a problem?

Thanks

 

[MysticMinion]

I've ordered the Trinket M0 I just have a couple of questions. I have no idea if I've misread stuff or missed anything.

What does the wire need to be rated for?
Can I use multistrand wire from an ethernet cable I can salvage?
To flash the board does I just press the button twice and drag and drop the FUSEE SUITE TRINKET UF2 then the TRINKET UF2?
Can I still update the payload on the trinket inside the switch without opening it?
Is it possible to remove the button afterward and still update the trinket inside the switch?
Is M3 double-sided tape fine to stop shorts and hold the trinket to the heatsink?
And should it be mounted onto Kapton tape or straight onto the heatsink
Does the trinket stay on while the switch is off?
If I was to turn the volume of the switch up would the trinket keep trying to enter rcm while on?
When updating my switch later on all that needs updating is the payload for Hekate and the rest is on the sd card, right?
Does the switch charge the same as stock?
And finally, can the switch still dock?

Also, I saw some people were complaining about USB disconnect not letting them charge and various other issues is this still a problem?

Thanks

 

[Hayato213]

I've ordered the Trinket M0 I just have a couple of questions. I have no idea if I've misread stuff or missed anything. Thanks

What does the wire need to be rated for?
you need AWG40 if possible, if not use AWG30

Can I use multistrand wire from an ethernet cable I can salvage?
No

To flash the board does I just press the button twice and drag and drop the FUSEE SUITE TRINKET UF2 then the TRINKET UF2?
You pick one of them, fusee suite, or swtichboot, you don't mix them, you drag and drop part 1 and then drag and drop part 2 in uf2 mode.

Can I still update the payload on the trinket inside the switch without opening it?
Is it possible to remove the button afterward and still update the trinket inside the switch?

It has been explain to you don't remove the reset button it is it purpose.

Is M3 double-sided tape fine to stop shorts and hold the trinket to the heatsink?
And should it be mounted onto Kapton tape or straight onto the heatsink

You should use kapton tape or even better electrical tape.

Does the trinket stay on while the switch is off?
The trinket doesn't consume enough power, I have one the led is always on, as the LED was never removed.

If I was to turn the volume of the switch up would the trinket keep trying to enter rcm while on?
No

When updating my switch later on all that needs updating is the payload for Hekate and the rest is on the sd card, right?

payload on the modchip is different than the one on the SD card, I would just update the one on the SD card instead.

Does the switch charge the same as stock?
And finally, can the switch still dock?
Yes it work fine if you solder it correctly, and yes you can dock.


Also, I saw some people were complaining about USB disconnect not letting them charge and various other issues is this still a problem?

D+/D- and ground affect this, proper ground soldering is important, you might struggle to get into uf2 update mode when ground is poorly soldered, good luck if this is your first time at soldering, hire someone else to do it.

 

[MysticMinion]

you need AWG40 if possible, if not use AWG30

can this be enameled copper wire and does it need to be single-core if it's insulated
im guessing the single-core would be better as it will hold its shape when bended better

 

[Hayato213]

you need AWG40 if possible, if not use AWG30

can this be enameled copper wire and does it need to be single-core if it's insulated
im guessing the single-core would be better as it will hold its shape when bended better

Use what is suggested, AWG 40 or AWG 30 wires.

 

[jesterscourt]

Alright I'm totally lost.

I had Trinket installed on a launch Switch. Worked fine, something happened (probably while fooling with the SD card using a Mac, and then trying to clean it up, to no avail. Can someone point me to an SD card setup that will work? Here's how it worked before:

Power by itself -> OFW (9.1)
Power and Vol+ -> CFW (Hekate I believe into Atmosphere with Emunand)

I can still get into OFW, but Power and Vol+ goes to a black screen.

I just got a RCM Loader and a jig, if that will help at all.

 

[Hayato213]

Alright I'm totally lost.

I had Trinket installed on a launch Switch. Worked fine, something happened (probably while fooling with the SD card using a Mac, and then trying to clean it up, to no avail. Can someone point me to an SD card setup that will work? Here's how it worked before:

Power by itself -> OFW (9.1)
Power and Vol+ -> CFW (Hekate I believe into Atmosphere with Emunand)

I can still get into OFW, but Power and Vol+ goes to a black screen.

I just got a RCM Loader and a jig, if that will help at all.

See other thread, I explain it over there.

 

[DevilBlackDeath]

Hello everyone,
New here I recently decided to mod my switch. Initially it was a softmod but after discovering softmods forced you to push payloads again when switching between SysNAND and EmuNAND even when using autoRCM I've looked up some more and discovered this thread and multiple other sites doing this same tutorial as well.

My goal is to have a functional dual boot without external input (at least no external input once the mod is done, and outside of the necessary updates through SAMD21 update mode or whatever it's called) and without autoRCM

So first of all, am I right to understand that once wired correctly, this mod actually lets you get into RCM and push payloads from the chip without a jig or anything like that ? I also couldn't understand the point of the Vol+ strap. Without it I only get dual boot, but what do I get with it ? Personally I only need dual boot, one on official SysNAND, the other one being Hekate to launch anything else (which I'll probably configure to autoboot by default to an Atmosphere EmuMMC). So for my needs I'd only need to wire the Joycon strap to have no need for a jig right ? Or is the Joycon strap for something else entirely ? If I understood correctly what I asked in my first question, which solderS is/are responsible of letting you go to RCM without jigs/autoRCM ? And if I got that correctly as well, all solders are mandatory except the Joycon strap and Vol+ strap ?

If I should create my own separate topic please do tell me, I just felt like this was the best place as this is the specific mod I'm planning to do (with an Adafruit Trinket).

Thanks in advance everyone

 

[Arakon]

Correct. By default, you basically just power it on and it boots directly into CFW. You can either use the vol+ strap to dual boot, or use i.e. Hekate to set up multiple boot scenarios and change via a menu.
The Joycon strap IS mandatory if you don't want to use a jig.

 

[DevilBlackDeath]

Correct. By default, you basically just power it on and it boots directly into CFW. You can either use the vol+ strap to dual boot, or use i.e. Hekate to set up multiple boot scenarios and change via a menu.
The Joycon strap IS mandatory if you don't want to use a jig.

Ah so without the Vol+ strap I don't get any dual booting ? Or well, at least not witout Hekate. Is there any way to set a dual autoboot in Hekate ? Maybe by holding Vol- while Hekate starts as opposed to not holding anything else ?

Thanks a lot for the answer by the way

Edit : Ah just saw the alt points and it would seem like a lot of them would make my life MUCH easier for the small points (namely 3V, Joycon and Vol+). Would disassembling the switch to have access to those be easier than soldering to those very small contacts and resistors.