Hacking Instinct v6s VS Rp2040

[deeps]

Then explain why every time i switch out the picofly chip with an instinct v6 in a hynix switch it boots up instantly? I don't even need to touch any of the soldering points, just desolder ABCD wires and swap the modchip.

Besides if soldering is the issue then why it's only relevant to sk hynix emmc? Picofly works perfectly fine on all samsung emmc chips i've installed. Sk hynix a hit or miss, and for toshiba don't even bother, had to use instinct or dump the emmc then replace with a samsung every single time. Fortunately 80% oleds I've done have samsung emmc so don't need to do that very often.

I've seen some very bad solderings on switches brought to me for repair or update, cold joints, wires too thick, wires too long, too much exposed wire, too much solder, too little flux, too much flux, bad rosin flux, you name it, most of the time it's just a loose wire, if i solder it back switch boots up just fine, still I'd redo all the wiring on these consoles.

I've done many RGH1/2 installs on xbox 360 in the past and let me tell you switch wiring is much more forgiving. On 360 if the wire is several mm off then the console will refuse to boot, plus every chip/console is different. So i'd know if it's a wiring or soldering issue when I see one.

Don't take my word for it, just search the forum or internet, and see how many people are having issues with picofly and hynix/toshiba emmc.

Only thing i can agree with you is some picofly chips are cheaply made, I've order some samples of sx core type of chips for v2, they'll either refuse to boot or sometimes cause emmc to initialize in slow mode. Changed to hwfly/instinct type of chip and never had any problem, on samsung emmc at least.

We must be doing something differently. I've done maybe 15-20 toshibas and 30-40 skhynix - no problems whatsoever. I'll agree that the glitch time on average is slightly longer than with samsung emmc's. It's possible that the timing for those emmc's is better with the instinct, but a solid enough picofly install job might compensate for it. Since every tiny little change with the mosfets make a difference, for instance - wire length, wire thickness, etc. I've noticed how the mosfet setup affects the glitch time a bit. I've tried all combinations of wire, mosfet and flex cable setups and the combo that I find works best is single mosfet with 0.2mm wires connected as seen in the attached photo.

It would be interesting to see what happens when you find a non-working skhynix or toshiba and then change to the exact same setup as I normally have.

I mean, there must be some reason why I've yet to come across a switch that won't work reliably with a picofly while you come across loads of them.

 

[xawak67952]

I bought few cheap modchip from AliExpress based on RP2040 and all of them failed. They sometimes booted succesfully but most of the time they had trouble and one modchip actually corrupted NAND (thankfully i had a full backup). V6/V6s uses 240R on D A C points where the RP2040 modchips uses 50R which definitely causes all of this troubles.

EDIT: forgot to mention, even after sucessfull boot, HOS was throwing errors related to eMMC or something like that, i don't remember the exact error-code. Hekate also was having trouble reading eMMC.

 

[randy_w]

We must be doing something differently. I've done maybe 15-20 toshibas and 30-40 skhynix - no problems whatsoever. I'll agree that the glitch time on average is slightly longer than with samsung emmc's. It's possible that the timing for those emmc's is better with the instinct, but a solid enough picofly install job might compensate for it. Since every tiny little change with the mosfets make a difference, for instance - wire length, wire thickness, etc. I've noticed how the mosfet setup affects the glitch time a bit. I've tried all combinations of wire, mosfet and flex cable setups and the combo that I find works best is single mosfet with 0.2mm wires connected as seen in the attached photo.

It would be interesting to see what happens when you find a non-working skhynix or toshiba and then change to the exact same setup as I normally have.

I mean, there must be some reason why I've yet to come across a switch that won't work reliably with a picofly while you come across loads of them.

I always use the supplied cpu ribbon cable, anyway your mosfet placement and wiring route is the same as the cpu ribbon cable i use (mosfet under shield, sp1/sp2 goes down then goes right to mosfet, ground on both shield and cpu), only difference is the ribbon cable i use have two 2.2k pull down resistors between gate and ground, which in theory should only increase its stability:

Moreover I replaced toshiba emmc with samsung ones on about 5 oleds. They all have problems with picofly and i ran out of instinct chips, so i dumped the emmc with programmer and write it to a samsung 64gb chip, solder samsung emmc back with dat0 wire soldered in directly, and the console boots up instantly. Didn't touch any of the other wires. So I still think it's an emmc issue with picofly, not related to cpu ribbon cable

 

[RatchetRussian]

I mean, there must be some reason why I've yet to come across a switch that won't work reliably with a picofly while you come across loads of them.

Agreed. I've done 200+ modchip installation. All with rp2040, mostly oleds. All work perfectly with near instant boot times. All kamikaze or reballed

Either he has a bad stock of clone rp2040s or subpar soldering.