Gaming Horrible desktop problems

bowlofspiders

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Hello all. Just going to skip the back-story here; my desktop PC stopped working right after I replaced the motherboard and case for it. At first, I was using a Micro ATX Gigabyte motherboard for the computer. Since this was micro, I decided I needed a full sized ATX motherboard. I buy a BIOSTAR TH55XERCH LGA 1156 motherboard, and a new Antec 300 case to go with it. I install everything and my computer has a hard time starting up. It takes about seventeen attempts to get it to start. It finally starts and everything loads correctly. During the use for the next three weeks, I experience random crashes and windows freeze ups. No BSOD and no warning. The USB power for my keyboard and mouse froze; I could not turn it off. I would have to unplug the desktop and plug it back in again to get it to start. This stopped happening for a while until I went into my motherboard and checked the voltage for the Vcore on my Intel i3 540 Clarkdale. It was set to 1.26 volts. After studying a little, I learned 1.24 would be better. I set it to 1.24 volts, save the settings, and exit the BIOS. Now I hit the power button and the computer comes on for a quick second and shuts off right away. I troubleshoot a lot, ask other opinions, and come to a conclusion that the motherboard is bad. I get the RMA ready for it and buy a new motherboard. This time, it is the ASUS P7P55D-E LX motherboard. I get the motherboard, do everything you are supposed to do to get the computer working, and push the power button. It does the same thing over again; power on, power off half a second later. This motherboard says that all the power is good by lighting up a green LED light. I followed the guide on the Biostar website for overclocking my CPU, checked my ram, unplugged my HDD and tried a HDD free boot. Still a power on, power off. Please guys... I really need help getting this to work again. I've already spent a lot of money and would not like to waste anymore by buying something that will not fix the problem.
 

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First off, do you have the 4(+4) pin connector for CPU power plugged into the mobo? It usually plugs in above and to the left of the CPU socket.

If yes, remove all components except for the CPU . This includes hard drives, disk drives, floppy drives, PCI/PCI-e cards, video cards, and most importantly the RAM. Make sure your chassis speaker is connected and turn the PC on. If the PC comes on, you should hear a constant tone coming from the chassis speaker to indicate that there is no RAM. If that is the case, then re-connect components one by one, starting with the RAM, one stick at a time, and keep trying to boot the PC. I'll keep this tab open and I'll check back from time to time.
 

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Yeah, the one that would make a beep when you turn the pc on. Then, I guess if nothing else, turn the pc on with ONLY the CPU attached with NO RAM inserted and see if it stays on.

If it stays on, then like I said, re-connect components one by one. If it doesn't, I would venture to say that your CPU is bad. However, before finalizing on that, I would see if you can test the rig with a different PSU.
 

shadowkillerdrag

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Check power cables are connected? One time I was reapplying thermal on my gpu and forgot to plug in the power and I thought all hell broke loose haha.

But if worse comes to worse you could always use the older micro atx board.
 

bowlofspiders

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plasma dragon007 said:
Yeah, the one that would make a beep when you turn the pc on. Then, I guess if nothing else, turn the pc on with ONLY the CPU attached with NO RAM inserted and see if it stays on.

If it stays on, then like I said, re-connect components one by one. If it doesn't, I would venture to say that your CPU is bad. However, before finalizing on that, I would see if you can test the rig with a different PSU.
I unplugged everything except the CPU and CPU fan. Still powers on then off real fast. I followed Intel's guidelines and Biostar's. Still no luck...
 

emmanu888

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then it would be the cpu if you had the cpu recently then it was doa if not try to check the thermal paste other than that the cpu has gone bad and need to be replaced
 

bowlofspiders

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emmanu888 said:
then it would be the cpu if you had the cpu recently then it was doa if not try to check the thermal paste other than that the cpu has gone bad and need to be replaced
I need the desktop to be working tomorrow. I don't feel like explaining but I need it to work. Can anybody name US stores that carry 1156 socket Intel CPUs?
 

raulpica

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BowlOfSpiders said:
I have another question... could the power switch on the case be faulty?
Might be, just remove the switch cables from the motherboard and turn it on manually by shorting the two power-on pins with a screwdriver.

Imho, it looks like your PSU is at fault. Try replacing that.

Even with no thermal paste a CPU should at least resist 5-10 seconds before overheating and turning off, so I'd exclude a thermal paste issue.
 

hatredg0d

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it also sounds like a bad psu to me.. either that, or your motherboard went bad! try a different power supply if you can, and if that doesn't work, try your old board again.
 

machomuu

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emmanu888 said:
no idea im canadian and not american
mapnorthamerica.gif


Just pointing it out because I see this being said far too often.
 

bowlofspiders

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raulpica said:
BowlOfSpiders said:
I have another question... could the power switch on the case be faulty?
Might be, just remove the switch cables from the motherboard and turn it on manually by shorting the two power-on pins with a screwdriver.

Imho, it looks like your PSU is at fault. Try replacing that.

Even with no thermal paste a CPU should at least resist 5-10 seconds before overheating and turning off, so I'd exclude a thermal paste issue.
I used the screwdriver as you said. It powered on and off like always. I have a new PSU coming in tomorrow. I just hope it's not to late to get this fixed...
 

Nimbus

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BowlOfSpiders said:
raulpica said:
BowlOfSpiders said:
I have another question... could the power switch on the case be faulty?
Might be, just remove the switch cables from the motherboard and turn it on manually by shorting the two power-on pins with a screwdriver.

Imho, it looks like your PSU is at fault. Try replacing that.

Even with no thermal paste a CPU should at least resist 5-10 seconds before overheating and turning off, so I'd exclude a thermal paste issue.
I used the screwdriver as you said. It powered on and off like always. I have a new PSU coming in tomorrow. I just hope it's not to late to get this fixed...

I too was about to admit it sounded like a bad Power Supply Unit.

However, once again, I am slow as dirt, and seem to have been beaten to the punch on it.

Good to see you got it working via somewhat unorthodox methods. Even better that the PSU is coming toomorow.

Good luck, with any luck it'll be fixable.
 

bowlofspiders

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Guys. Installed the new PSU, hit the switch on the back of the PSU from O to - and, guess what? The power supply Blue LED and fan flashes on and off on and off on and off. I hit the power switch and the computer trys to turn on, but it does not. It just shuts off again. I'm going to have to replace the CPU I guess.
 

trumpet-205

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Did you apply thermal compound each time you remove your CPU? If not that's the cause of a dieing CPU.

Before you replace your CPU, test your RAM on another computer. Also, did you wear a antistatic wrist strap while servicing your PC?
 

Zetta_x

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Yeah, make sure you replace the thermal paste between the heatsink and the cpu; it sounds like it's getting really hot and turning off from overheating.
 

marcus134

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Zetta_x said:
Yeah, make sure you replace the thermal paste between the heatsink and the cpu; it sounds like it's getting really hot and turning off from overheating.
Or he used too much and some of the paste got on the socket pins causing a short.
If the cpu is over heating, the cpu fan (if connected in the correct header) should start to spin like crazy before shut down.

Sometimes, the cpu on the lga socket can be misaligned with the pins.

Also, I once saw a defective antec case, the motherboard tray was bent in a way that was invisible to the naked eye, but enough to shorts pins on the mobo. you can always test this by assembling you computer on the cardboard box your mobo came with, however if it's the case fault, it's probably to late for your mobo.
 

bowlofspiders

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I applied enough thermal paste to cover most of the surface of the CPU every time. It's not overheating. The thermal paste has never touched the socket. I made sure the CPU was sitting correctly in the socket. I took the desktop to a computer store and the guy said the CPU was bad. He said it was the fourth Intel CPU he had ever seen that has malfunctioned. This guy has been working on computers for 24 years so... He is getting me a free replacement from Intel. Since I did not do anything to destroy the CPU, it will be free. If Intel finds something wrong, I will gladly pay for it. I'm quite happy I at least know it's the CPU. He unplugged the CPU power and the computer started up with no problem at all. The power supply wasn't the problem. Thanks guys! My dad bought me an alternate computer while my main one is being fixed. (Yes. The project I am doing is that important)
 

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