Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks for that, when I double tap I don't get trinket boot but work PC might be blocking. I only get the circuitpy drive.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Keep trying mate! LED colour will change to red and once it successfully connects to PC, it will turn green.

 

[crow132]

Very strange... What method did you follow? What straps have you connected and to where? Every switch I have done it is working fine... Puzzled!

EDIT:::

Gemma M0 files added to OP btw everyone if needed...

DOUBLE EDIT::: If you are using Hekate, I had a similar problem. See OP for details.

I did not try any method yet, just playing around with autorcm before modding my switch this weekend

Not sure if modding the switch will change that, but so far my battery drains when powering off after installing autorcm

 

[mattytrog]

I did not try any method yet, just playing around with autorcm before modding my switch this weekend

Not sure if modding the switch will change that, but so far my battery drains when powering off after installing autorcm

I`m assuming you are using Hekate?

 

[crow132]

I`m assuming you are using Hekate?

nope, sxos loader, i launch sxos and i shut the system down from it, it ended up in RCM mode

also tried to shut down the system pressing the power button until is off and still my battery ended up discharging

I tried now applying the battery desync fix, but since its not related its probably pointless

 

[mattytrog]

nope, sxos loader, i launch sxos and i shut the system down from it, it ended up in RCM mode

also tried to shut down the system pressing the power button until is off and still my battery ended up discharging

I tried now applying the battery desync fix, but since its not related its probably pointless

Yes. Pointless. Something must be happening to put it in RCM. Whenever autoRCM is enabled and you don't send a payload, it will flatten the battery.

 

[crow132]

Yes. Pointless. Something must be happening to put it in RCM. Whenever autoRCM is enabled and you don't send a payload, it will flatten the battery.

may it be because I applied two different auto rcms? I uninstalled one before trying the other (hekate and sx loader) and when I uninstall autorcm the systems boots and turn off normally...

Anyway, I have no clue why thats happening, I will install the trinket and report my results.. If I keep having the same problem ill probably uninstall autorcm and Ill use my moded joycon to enter rcm

sad

 

[mattytrog]

may it be because I applied two different auto rcms? I uninstalled one before trying the other (hekate and sx loader) and when I uninstall autorcm the systems boots and turn off normally...

Anyway, I have no clue why thats happening, I will install the trinket and report my results.. If I keep having the same problem ill probably uninstall autorcm and Ill use my moded joycon to enter rcm

sad

Possible but I doubt it. I just use SX loader RCM.

 

[consolex]

I do not understand why method 3 burns efuses.
I'm looking for the best method without using autoRCM or JIG ?

 

[mattytrog]

I do not understand why method 3 burns efuses.
I'm looking for the best method without using autoRCM or JIG ?

It doesn`t burn efuses purposely. It may never do. But if you upgrade your firmware via messing around not burning efuses with memloader etc etc, if the trinket fails even once to catch RCM in time, your fuses are gone and future downgrades are impossible. I put that for people who wish to downgrade at some point in the future.

OP updated too @Everybody

 

[consolex]

It doesn`t burn efuses purposely. It may never do. But if you upgrade your firmware via messing around not burning efuses with memloader etc etc, if the trinket fails even once to catch RCM in time, your fuses are gone and future downgrades are impossible. I put that for people who wish to downgrade at some point in the future.

OP updated too @Everybody

Ok then method 3 is the best I think
No need for JIG, just power + vol +

 

[pandavova]

I just want to clearify some things for me:
1.) Why dont you need to remove the Resistor for Method 1?
2.) Are the Files for the Trinket M0 build with https://github.com/Quantum-cross/sam-fusee-launcher-internal? Or are you using something else?
3.) Where would be the optimal postion to mount the Trinket M0 when using Method 1?

 

[subcon959]

only plug it in once you have done step 4

I think this is what I was doing wrong.

Ok, it pretty much works 90% of the time for me now if I follow the rhythm clickety-clickety-connect. It's also easy to tell if you're looking at the Switch screen as when you plug in the usb cable, the battery charging indicator becomes an X.

 

[mattytrog]

I think this is what I was doing wrong.

Ok, it pretty much works 90% of the time for me now if I follow the rhythm clickety-clickety-connect. It's also easy to tell if you're looking at the Switch screen as when you plug in the usb cable, the battery charging indicator becomes an X.

You got it young sir!

 

[mattytrog]

I just want to clearify some things for me:
1.) Why dont you need to remove the Resistor for Method 1?
2.) Are the Files for the Trinket M0 build with https://github.com/Quantum-cross/sam-fusee-launcher-internal? Or are you using something else?
3.) Where would be the optimal postion to mount the Trinket M0 when using Method 1?

You mean the LED? You don`t need to remove it for any... Just a power-saving measure
Yes. They are Sam-fusee-launcher by quantum-cross with a couple of altered lines by me and different payloads.

Optimal? On the battery?

But we cannot as there is not the space.
So in the airduct is fine. It doesn`t impede airflow at all.

 

[noX1609]

4.7 microfarad (uF).

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Pro trinkets are 328p if I remember correctly. Therefore no it won't work due to lack of usb host mode.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Just have a check that the ruined top pad isn't going to ground. If it is, then it's used for filtering and you can omit it as the bottom pad would still have power. If it isn't going to ground, then you are going to have to flip the board over.
Looking at it from a picture, there seems to be two testpoints nearby underneath if you flip the board over. Check one of them are 3v. I could help you but I don't have a removed motherboard with me

EDIT: just read that you have buzzed it out and it is indeed going to ground. Lucky! So it seems it is used for filtering or smoothing. You could leave it out but the power supply would be less smooth. Will it cause problems? Maybe, maybe not.

You could fit the trinket to the remaining good bottom pad as per the install instructions and when it comes to the capacitor that is missing, fit it to the trinket instead! Cheeky way of doing the job but it will work. The 3v we solder to on the trinket goes to the trinket LDO regulator. Remove the regulator as we don't use it anyway and fit the 4.7 uF ceramic cap there going to ground.

Thanks for you help will try it.
We tried to boot it without the cap but it doesn‘t boot completely. It displayes the Nintendo logo and then the nintendo switch logo but then it stayes there and don‘t boot completely.
Could you mark the two points you metioned on a picture?
And next time you have a removed board on hand it would be great if you could check the point if it should be ground or where it needs to go to.

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks for you help will try it.
We tried to boot it without the cap but it doesn‘t boot completely. It displayes the Nintendo logo and then the nintendo switch logo but then it stayes there and don‘t boot completely.
Could you mark the two points you metioned on a picture?
And next time you have a removed board on hand it would be great if you could check the point if it should be ground or where it needs to go to.

Erm... sure! Gimme ten min.


@noX1609 Tell you what... On the trinket under the regulator there is a capacitor already fitted. I haven`t removed it from the board to find the value, but that is doing the same job as your missing one... Just for scientific purposes, connect the trinket up and test it. You tried it without the trinket before I guess? I have a sneaky feeling that the smoothing cap on the trinket will be sufficient for the switch as well as the trinket. Try it and report back.

Actually... I`m a twat. Scrub that. Its the bottom pad thats knackered isnt it? ie the VCC pad.

 

[noX1609]

Erm... sure! Gimme ten min.


@noX1609 Tell you what... On the trinket under the regulator there is a capacitor already fitted. I haven`t removed it from the board to find the value, but that is doing the same job as your missing one... Just for scientific purposes, connect the trinket up and test it. You tried it without the trinket before I guess? I have a sneaky feeling that the smoothing cap on the trinket will be sufficient for the switch as well as the trinket. Try it and report back.

Actually... I`m a twat. Scrub that. Its the bottom pad thats knackered isnt it? ie the VCC pad.

I marked the pad i mean red in this picture


It‘s not the point where trinket needs to be soldered to it‘s the opposit one.
So i need to know where this is connected to so that i‘m able to recover the switch

 

[mattytrog]

Erm... sure! Gimme ten min.


@noX1609 Tell you what... On the trinket under the regulator there is a capacitor already fitted. I haven`t removed it from the board to find the value, but that is doing the same job as your missing one... Just for scientific purposes, connect the trinket up and test it. You tried it without the trinket before I guess? I have a sneaky feeling that the smoothing cap on the trinket will be sufficient for the switch as well as the trinket. Try it and report back.

Actually... I`m a twat. Scrub that. Its the bottom pad thats knackered isnt it? ie the VCC pad.

I marked the pad i mean red in this picture
View attachment 135486

It‘s not the point where trinket needs to be soldered to it‘s the opposit one.
So i need to know where this is connected to so that i‘m able to recover the switch

Got you. I`m sure you said in an earlier post you tested it and it went to ground? If so, any ground will do

 

[noX1609]

Hmm yea took a multimeter and it beeped when i touched a ground pin.
The problem is the points are so tiny and there is not much space between them so i‘m not sure i didn‘t touch a secound point so it would be great if you or anyone else could test if it‘s really connected to ground or not so i could be sure i can fix it.
I tried it with another cap but console doesn‘t do anything (but i dont know the value of it so this could be the problem too because my multimeter can‘t messure capacity. When there is nothing soldered it shows the two boot logos but then it freezes and doesn‘t boot correctly.

 

[mattytrog]

Hmm yea took a multimeter and it beeped when i touched a ground pin.
The problem is the points are so tiny and there is not much space between them so i‘m not sure i didn‘t touch a secound point so it would be great if you or anyone else could test if it‘s really connected to ground or not so i could be sure i can fix it.
I tried it with another cap but console doesn‘t do anything (but i dont know the value of it so this could be the problem too because my multimeter can‘t messure capacity. When there is nothing soldered it shows the two boot logos but then it freezes and doesn‘t boot correctly.

On the flip side of the board, the point comes out under the audio chip - the ALC. At least I`m assuming its an audio chip. Not got docs to hand.

You could probe around that to see if it "bells out". I haven`t got one in bits at the moment.

EDIT: Actually... Fook it. I`ll take back off and have a probe for you. Gimme half hour.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

On the flip side of the board, the point comes out under the audio chip - the ALC. At least I`m assuming its an audio chip. Not got docs to hand.

You could probe around that to see if it "bells out". I haven`t got one in bits at the moment.

EDIT: Actually... Fook it. I`ll take back off and have a probe for you. Gimme half hour.

@noX1609 Yes. It goes to ground.

Furthermore, under the reset switch on the trinket, the smoothing cap for the trinket is connected to the same points. Buzz it out yourself. So you can just connect the trinket and be back as you were. So instead of using the point on the switch to smooth it, we are using the trinket. Have you tried this?