Gaming GBS Control, anyone built one? I did recently and think it is worth it.

wolffangalchemist

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recently saw voultar's video on youtube about the GBS Control open source oupscaler and decided to build one, I only have a ps1 modded to output 15Khz VGA and a component modded snes to test and plan to get some scart cables for other stuff, but it looks very crisp and clean at 1080p upscale on my newer tv sets. parts cost was around $45 USD total.


here are some pictures one of the actual gbsc and some i took while testing various modes.

also a github from the project
https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control

20210910_215245.jpg

20210912_012706.jpg
20210915_205102.jpg
20210915_205430.jpg
20210915_205508.jpg
20210915_205527.jpg

20210915_205555.jpg

20210912_010628.jpg
20210910_234055.jpg
20210910_221628.jpg
 
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notimp

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If you want to build it, build it. :) 5x resolution scale (from 240p ish) on big screen TVs _is_ worth it (1080p-ish output resolution).

I've some thoughts on this as an OSSC user, loving my OSSC. :) And yes I'll be trying to upsell you. :)

- Webinterface is neat. Remote control is better. :) (I've worked with many a IOT devices over the years.)
- VGA out (If I see it correctly) is neat. HDMI out is neater.
- OSSC has options for rec601 and rec709 switching. (Changes color primaries (red, green, blue targets) from NTSC targets to sRGB targets. Basically TVs and monitors back in the day had slightly different color targets and you can chose, which one you believe the game was optimized for by designers. :) Only interesting if your screen is somewhat calibrated, but if it is, it is neat as heck. :) )
- OSSC has an option for RGB limited and full. (This only goes for HDMI.) The other device probably will also out put in RGB full color spectrum (as it outputs in VGA), and I'm not sure if the transformation the OSSC does by default (to limited spectrum) is bit accurate, but its neat to have on a scaler. Here is the usecase. Setting up a mismatch (full RGB out on the scaler and limited set on the HDMI input (TV side)) gives all colors more saturation pop (basically makes all colors 16 steps more saturated (out of a 0-255 range), so its still "tastefully so..." ;) ). This can look pretty darn great (Especially with good black levels (OLED)). Downside is, that it crushes "close to black" colors (makes them black). So its neat to be able to switch to the "correct match" in seconds (faster than going to the submenu in my TV) with the OSSC (by switching it to limited output), when needed. In short: Many pixel art games look great with the mismatch active (smaller color pallet), when you move into PS1 and certainly PS2 or Wii territory, crushing near blacks becomes more of an issue, and you usually dont want the mismatch active. Because you are loosing image detail in dark scenes.
- Finegrained control on scanline intensity adds so much, you wouldnt believe it, having a scaler that can do that is worth it for that alone. Both the OSSC and yours can do that it seems. (Spoken as someone that prefers 6% to 18% scanlines on the OSSC, so low intensity.)
- Only having one 1080p (5x) resolution will become an issue, maybe. The OSSC allows you to switch between 1600x1200, 1920x1080 and 1920x1200 in 5x scaling mode, and this basically pertains to aspect ratios (depending on how your TV deals with 1600x1200 - if it displays it full screen, you are golden. :) ) - your scaler has the option to stretch and crop on all display modes, so you can set profiles for them manually, but that would be the first thing I'd do. 1600x1200 on my TV is close to 4:3 but a little wider (my preferred resolution most of the time), perfect 4:3 aspect ratio I only get with scaling 3x or 4x. 1920x1080 at 5x is a little wider and 1920x1200 is wider still. Why is that important?
You can decide if the moon in some games is round, or not. :)
See:

With perfect 4:3 it might not be, but several games might look a bit better, with a slightly wider aspect ratio. OSSC allows for that. Your scaler does as well, but you'd have to set up those profiles first.
- One "downside" of the OSSC, you cant stretch the image normally (only using those output resolutions (presets), and certain 240p ish input resolutions (you can tell it at which aspect ratio that signal in should be read as)). You can shift and crop the image though.
- Another upside of the OSSC - you can selectively choose how much blur to add to an image, by changing sampling phase:
(OSSC in the current firmware has an on screen display function for that, you dont have to watch the display all the time, dont worry. ;) )

You can ignore the rest of that video, but just know, that adjusting sampling phase has that effect. This is important, because some pixel art looks better with low intensity scanlines and a little blur on the signal.
(Also have super resolution low active on my OLED, thats a blur and edge sharpen filter - which at low produces imho more pleasant result on pixel art (adds lag)) - but thats the only image enhancer I have active on the OSSC signal.
(If you want to get into perfect (sharp) advanced timings on the OSSC after watching that video:
https://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=Optimal_timings
and
http://www.firebrandx.com/osscprofiles.html)
The Retrotink 5x only has two options "sharp" (as in clean), and more blurry (as in too much blur.. ;) ) so OSSC wins over all three in that department.

One definite downside of the OSSC is deinterlacing. Bob on the OSSC always turns out a less than desirable result. (Usually a bit too blurry, or with noticeable combing artifacts. The Retrotink 5x is the king here. (One compensation tip on the PS2 - with 1080i output from the PS2, the OSSC does passthrough, and the TVs usually do a good job deinterlacing 1080i, so that can compensate. BUT - you have significantly higher compatibility with 480i output out of a PS2. Here we are going to much of topic just know that there are ways to compensate (also by forcing 480p on GCN and Wii games on a Wii. (But with 480i out I usually prefer the OSSC to passthrough the signal without line doubling. (My TVs scaler does a better job of handling that than after a 2x upscale on the OSSC.) ) ) Also on my TV with some 5x resolutions there are (usually not in 1600x1200, but in the two other resolutions) black screen tear lines in the image sometimes. If there are you can fix it by going down to 4x or 3x, and they are gone.
See: https://gbatemp.net/threads/pal-ps2-screen-tear-when-using-ossc-on-5x-mode.589925/ you cant fix them with advanced timings - it should be related to how the TV/monitor handles the output signal. I dont think that they are an issue with most people, as I have read little to no complaints. :)
---

So how do we deal with the biggest downside of the OSSC? (Deinterlacing) we feed it progressive scan signals the best we can. :) So 240p (ish) and 480p for the win.

240p (ish) also is the only output resolution on pixel art games you could scale by 5x - so you'd have an incentive to get output sources that support it anyhow. (Best possible image quality, with all of the aftermarket scalers/linedoubles currently on the market - (which all target 1080p as the highest output resolution. (4k too costly.. ;) )))

A hacked Wii is _THE_ console for that, if you are ok with emulation. Here is a thread about it:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/tut-quick-240p-emulation-guide.589987/
(Started with my PS2 experiences on the OSSC, and then went full into Wii, pretty fast.. ;) )

On the Wii, basically all emulators it supports can be set to a 240p (ish) output mode. You have to mod a Wii, not a Wii mini or WiiU, as only the Wii supports analog 240p output over component cables.

I good wii package with controllers and motion plus thingies, costs the equivalent of 60 USD today, add cost of a sdcard, and an external harddrive -
see: https://gbatemp.net/threads/why-is-a-flash-drive-in-a-wii-softmod-not-good.594272/
And you are done.
--

Oh, and if you are going into linedoublers/scalers, may I recommend the
XCM multi-console component cables ?
They are somewhat decently shielded, and you are paying 30USD ish for one cable, that supports multiple consoles. :)
--

Summery - I love my OSSC - imho its still well worth buying one, especially - if you go into 240p output on emulation (if you buy and mod a Wii, basically).

And you buy them from Aliexpress, for about 100 USD. Dont overpay. :)
--


One last word on the guy in the video. I wouldnt trust the guy much farther than I could throw him. ;) Saw a video from him once, where he was shilling all kinds of GCN mods. Talking them up to people as "the best way to experience GBA games on a big screen" (using the GBA player), something you could only do with a GCN with digital signal output modded onto it, and a SD card dvd drive emulator and... Everything fine so far, but then came his killer argument "you cant do GBA on a Wii, even though the Wii has almost perfect GCN support with added bonus features (he knew about forcing 480p)", and thats why you need to mod a GCN with 300 USD worth of stuff.

And thats BS. Because you can buy and mod a Wii for 60USD + 20USD (sdcard), softmod it, and with mGBA emulation, you'd be hardpressed to notice a difference on GBA games, over real hardware. Maybe input lag, thats it.

So I see him as an absolute shill for the modding aftermarket scene, that grafts samples for free, and then tells all the BS he has to to sell people on it. Soldering skills or not.

That and, oh - he afaik deleted two youtube comments - because I was presenting a better alternative at a lower price. Cant have that with his sponsors...

So everything he recommends and pronounces "super and wonderful", take it with a grain of salt.

*grrrr* and I'm out of this thread. :)

Hope it helped. :)

edit: Also set the out turn off display after a few seconds to on, on the OSSC, once you have one. And save that. Display too bright, my eyes hurt.. ;) It will then only turn on for a few seconds, if you press a button on the remote. Much better behavior. :)

edit2: For images of the OSSC on 480i out on a PS2, see:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/tut-cheating-yourself-to-16-9-glory.590082/

edit3: Oh I forgot to add the part where I was miffed that the youtuber didnt say anything about deinterlacing performance on that scaler. (Which modes it supports.) Because thats such a large aspect of trying to deal with old games.

2 seconds later, after googling:

It supports motion adaptive deinterlacing. Now all of a sudden, it has become HUGELY more interesting, and I'm thinking about building one.. ;)

This basically solves the blur and combing artifact issues on 480i games. Which is huge.
 
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notimp

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Just ordered the components myself from Aliexpress if I dont ruin them before I'll get them working, I'll give my feedback as well. :)

Site with parts for reference:
https://www.retrorgb.com/gbs-control-installation-overview.html

Video on that site:

My individual Aliexpress orders (amounting to 32,25 Euro incl shipping - without a powersupply.
Had to skimp on parts, because I only had 36 Euro left on the prepaid card I am using with aliexpress.. ;) )

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003281449584.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-...-Signal-Generator-Clock/1005001636541535.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP...-Development-Board-Micro-USB/32982182304.html
 
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I ordered all of the components as soon as I saw his video. Still waiting on some parts to come in and even once they do, it's going in the projects bin until I'm able to get around to it. Really curious on how it's gonna turn out though. I've got plans in mind for a completely self-contained 3d printed case I want to design that I'll ALSO get around to one day.
 

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IMPORTANT! Just read that the described issue with the aspect ratio on 5x modes on an OSSC (a little wider than 4:3) can be solved by doing the following:
Note - When using Line 5x mode, if your display can tolerate it, adjust h.samplerate to 1950 using the Advanced Timing Tweaker. This will help correct the image aspect ratio.
src: https://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/OSSC

Which I just did, and it worked. Now a perfect aspect ratio in 5x mode with 1920x1080 or 1600x1200 is possible on my OLED. Yay! :)

(If your TV doesnt support it, its only a little wider in 1600x1200 or 1920x1080 modes, only by as much that most people probably wouldnt notice.)

If your screen blanks out while lowering h.samplerate, and doesnt turn back on, try switching the output mode for 5x to 1920x1200 and try it with that resolution active. Once 1950 had been set 1920x1080 or 1600x1200 started working with that as well.

Maybe dont make that your default preset, in case the TV decides to blackscreen on that signal on reboot.. ;)

But this means that the OSSC can "resize" the image as well. Just a little though... ;) (Probably not noticeable for most people. )

Also I was wrong in one description above.

Both 1920x1080 and 1600x1200 as output options for 5x scaling use the same aspect ratio (which is a little wider than 4:3 when not applying the 1950 h.samplerate tweak) the 1920x1080 resolution just cuts off a little of the top and bottom of the image. I perceived the 1920x1080 setting to be a bit wider still but that was a subjective perception error it seems. :) (1920x1200 is wider though.)

So with that posting and the first on the OSSC, this should be all you should have to know on the OSSC. Everything important about it is now in this thread, or linked in this thread. :)

Also if you understand all of my postings - you should understand the OSSC in detail - and not be confused by the myriad of settings it has. :)

Also "optimal timings" on the OSSC really aren as important as it seems at first glance. (If you still want to get into that watch the optimal timings video above, it shows you everything you need to know about the principle.)
Only remember that setting h.samplerate to 1950 using the advanced timings setting in 5x mode (you need a 240p input signal, so 5x mode becomes available :) ) fixes the slightly wider than 4:3 image "issue" (hey I called it a feature a little earlier.. ;) ).
And that by adjusting sampling phase in the same options screen, you can add or remove a little blur. :)
 
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wolffangalchemist

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If you want to build it, build it. :) 5x resolution scale (from 240p ish) on big screen TVs _is_ worth it (1080p-ish output resolution).

I've some thoughts on this as an OSSC user, loving my OSSC. :) And yes I'll be trying to upsell you. :)

- Webinterface is neat. Remote control is better. :) (I've worked with many a IOT devices over the years.)
- VGA out (If I see it correctly) is neat. HDMI out is neater.
- OSSC has options for rec601 and rec709 switching. (Changes color primaries (red, green, blue targets) from NTSC targets to sRGB targets. Basically TVs and monitors back in the day had slightly different color targets and you can chose, which one you believe the game was optimized for by designers. :) Only interesting if your screen is somewhat calibrated, but if it is, it is neat as heck. :) )
- OSSC has an option for RGB limited and full. (This only goes for HDMI.) The other device probably will also out put in RGB full color spectrum (as it outputs in VGA), and I'm not sure if the transformation the OSSC does by default (to limited spectrum) is bit accurate, but its neat to have on a scaler. Here is the usecase. Setting up a mismatch (full RGB out on the scaler and limited set on the HDMI input (TV side)) gives all colors more saturation pop (basically makes all colors 16 steps more saturated (out of a 0-255 range), so its still "tastefully so..." ;) ). This can look pretty darn great (Especially with good black levels (OLED)). Downside is, that it crushes "close to black" colors (makes them black). So its neat to be able to switch to the "correct match" in seconds (faster than going to the submenu in my TV) with the OSSC (by switching it to limited output), when needed. In short: Many pixel art games look great with the mismatch active (smaller color pallet), when you move into PS1 and certainly PS2 or Wii territory, crushing near blacks becomes more of an issue, and you usually dont want the mismatch active. Because you are loosing image detail in dark scenes.
- Finegrained control on scanline intensity adds so much, you wouldnt believe it, having a scaler that can do that is worth it for that alone. Both the OSSC and yours can do that it seems. (Spoken as someone that prefers 6% to 18% scanlines on the OSSC, so low intensity.)
- Only having one 1080p (5x) resolution will become an issue, maybe. The OSSC allows you to switch between 1600x1200, 1920x1080 and 1920x1200 in 5x scaling mode, and this basically pertains to aspect ratios (depending on how your TV deals with 1600x1200 - if it displays it full screen, you are golden. :) ) - your scaler has the option to stretch and crop on all display modes, so you can set profiles for them manually, but that would be the first thing I'd do. 1600x1200 on my TV is close to 4:3 but a little wider (my preferred resolution most of the time), perfect 4:3 aspect ratio I only get with scaling 3x or 4x. 1920x1080 at 5x is a little wider and 1920x1200 is wider still. Why is that important?
You can decide if the moon in some games is round, or not. :)
See:

With perfect 4:3 it might not be, but several games might look a bit better, with a slightly wider aspect ratio. OSSC allows for that. Your scaler does as well, but you'd have to set up those profiles first.
- One "downside" of the OSSC, you cant stretch the image normally (only using those output resolutions (presets), and certain 240p ish input resolutions (you can tell it at which aspect ratio that signal in should be read as)). You can shift and crop the image though.
- Another upside of the OSSC - you can selectively choose how much blur to add to an image, by changing sampling phase:
(OSSC in the current firmware has an on screen display function for that, you dont have to watch the display all the time, dont worry. ;) )

You can ignore the rest of that video, but just know, that adjusting sampling phase has that effect. This is important, because some pixel art looks better with low intensity scanlines and a little blur on the signal.
(Also have super resolution low active on my OLED, thats a blur and edge sharpen filter - which at low produces imho more pleasant result on pixel art (adds lag)) - but thats the only image enhancer I have active on the OSSC signal.
(If you want to get into perfect (sharp) advanced timings on the OSSC after watching that video:
https://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=Optimal_timings
and
http://www.firebrandx.com/osscprofiles.html)
The Retrotink 5x only has two options "sharp" (as in clean), and more blurry (as in too much blur.. ;) ) so OSSC wins over all three in that department.

One definite downside of the OSSC is deinterlacing. Bob on the OSSC always turns out a less than desirable result. (Usually a bit too blurry, or with noticeable combing artifacts. The Retrotink 5x is the king here. (One compensation tip on the PS2 - with 1080i output from the PS2, the OSSC does passthrough, and the TVs usually do a good job deinterlacing 1080i, so that can compensate. BUT - you have significantly higher compatibility with 480i output out of a PS2. Here we are going to much of topic just know that there are ways to compensate (also by forcing 480p on GCN and Wii games on a Wii. (But with 480i out I usually prefer the OSSC to passthrough the signal without line doubling. (My TVs scaler does a better job of handling that than after a 2x upscale on the OSSC.) ) ) Also on my TV with some 5x resolutions there are (usually not in 1600x1200, but in the two other resolutions) black screen tear lines in the image sometimes. If there are you can fix it by going down to 4x or 3x, and they are gone.
See: https://gbatemp.net/threads/pal-ps2-screen-tear-when-using-ossc-on-5x-mode.589925/ you cant fix them with advanced timings - it should be related to how the TV/monitor handles the output signal. I dont think that they are an issue with most people, as I have read little to no complaints. :)
---

So how do we deal with the biggest downside of the OSSC? (Deinterlacing) we feed it progressive scan signals the best we can. :) So 240p (ish) and 480p for the win.

240p (ish) also is the only output resolution on pixel art games you could scale by 5x - so you'd have an incentive to get output sources that support it anyhow. (Best possible image quality, with all of the aftermarket scalers/linedoubles currently on the market - (which all target 1080p as the highest output resolution. (4k too costly.. ;) )))

A hacked Wii is _THE_ console for that, if you are ok with emulation. Here is a thread about it:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/tut-quick-240p-emulation-guide.589987/
(Started with my PS2 experiences on the OSSC, and then went full into Wii, pretty fast.. ;) )

On the Wii, basically all emulators it supports can be set to a 240p (ish) output mode. You have to mod a Wii, not a Wii mini or WiiU, as only the Wii supports analog 240p output over component cables.

I good wii package with controllers and motion plus thingies, costs the equivalent of 60 USD today, add cost of a sdcard, and an external harddrive -
see: https://gbatemp.net/threads/why-is-a-flash-drive-in-a-wii-softmod-not-good.594272/
And you are done.
--

Oh, and if you are going into linedoublers/scalers, may I recommend the
XCM multi-console component cables ?
They are somewhat decently shielded, and you are paying 30USD ish for one cable, that supports multiple consoles. :)
--

Summery - I love my OSSC - imho its still well worth buying one, especially - if you go into 240p output on emulation (if you buy and mod a Wii, basically).

And you buy them from Aliexpress, for about 100 USD. Dont overpay. :)
--


One last word on the guy in the video. I wouldnt trust the guy much farther than I could throw him. ;) Saw a video from him once, where he was shilling all kinds of GCN mods. Talking them up to people as "the best way to experience GBA games on a big screen" (using the GBA player), something you could only do with a GCN with digital signal output modded onto it, and a SD card dvd drive emulator and... Everything fine so far, but then came his killer argument "you cant do GBA on a Wii, even though the Wii has almost perfect GCN support with added bonus features (he knew about forcing 480p)", and thats why you need to mod a GCN with 300 USD worth of stuff.

And thats BS. Because you can buy and mod a Wii for 60USD + 20USD (sdcard), softmod it, and with mGBA emulation, you'd be hardpressed to notice a difference on GBA games, over real hardware. Maybe input lag, thats it.

So I see him as an absolute shill for the modding aftermarket scene, that grafts samples for free, and then tells all the BS he has to to sell people on it. Soldering skills or not.

That and, oh - he afaik deleted two youtube comments - because I was presenting a better alternative at a lower price. Cant have that with his sponsors...

So everything he recommends and pronounces "super and wonderful", take it with a grain of salt.

*grrrr* and I'm out of this thread. :)

Hope it helped. :)

edit: Also set the out turn off display after a few seconds to on, on the OSSC, once you have one. And save that. Display too bright, my eyes hurt.. ;) It will then only turn on for a few seconds, if you press a button on the remote. Much better behavior. :)

edit2: For images of the OSSC on 480i out on a PS2, see:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/tut-cheating-yourself-to-16-9-glory.590082/

edit3: Oh I forgot to add the part where I was miffed that the youtuber didnt say anything about deinterlacing performance on that scaler. (Which modes it supports.) Because thats such a large aspect of trying to deal with old games.

2 seconds later, after googling:

It supports motion adaptive deinterlacing. Now all of a sudden, it has become HUGELY more interesting, and I'm thinking about building one.. ;)

This basically solves the blur and combing artifact issues on 480i games. Which is huge.
yeah Voultar has a very arrogant air about him like his shit don't stink, probably not that bad a dude really. while he has good soldering skills he does come off as some what of an asshat occaionally but i have a hard time telling if that is just a character he is going for. I still watch his videos for information perposes if it is actually something interesting like in this case.
back more on topic, as far as a remote goes with the GBSC you can use a old cellphone as one. (like some cheap $20ish dollar android crap phone would do for it probably) not exactly the same but works well enough. Also i probably will eventually get an OSSC but for now this is good enough and roughly half the cost of an knock off ossc from ali express, plus i don't have to questiuon the craftsmanship since i made it myself lolol :rofl2:.
My main use for this is to eventually get a much larger CRT with VGA inputs (maybe widescreen sony wega?) or component and use it to clean up older stuff a bit but still display on a more modern CRT (like latish 2000's era crt's) i have a 27 in samsung tv that is put away due to space constraints at the moment but this does a hell of a job as intended. also would like to test out some down scaling of hd stuff to 240 on a crt as well. just for the fun of it.
i will definitely have to look into those xcm cables, sounds like a good deal. i also need to test this thing out with my elgato, or as i call it the elchapo.
20210927_170812.jpg


20210927_170723.jpg
also there is no lag when transitioning from 240p to 480i like some ps1 and saturn titles do.
 

notimp

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yeah Voultar has a very arrogant air about him like his shit don't stink, probably not that bad a dude really. while he has good soldering skills he does come off as some what of an asshat occaionally but i have a hard time telling if that is just a character he is going for. I still watch his videos for information perposes if it is actually something interesting like in this case.
back more on topic, as far as a remote goes with the GBSC you can use a old cellphone as one. (like some cheap $20ish dollar android crap phone would do for it probably) not exactly the same but works well enough. Also i probably will eventually get an OSSC but for now this is good enough and roughly half the cost of an knock off ossc from ali express, plus i don't have to questiuon the craftsmanship since i made it myself lolol :rofl2:.
My main use for this is to eventually get a much larger CRT with VGA inputs (maybe widescreen sony wega?) or component and use it to clean up older stuff a bit but still display on a more modern CRT (like latish 2000's era crt's) i have a 27 in samsung tv that is put away due to space constraints at the moment but this does a hell of a job as intended. also would like to test out some down scaling of hd stuff to 240 on a crt as well. just for the fun of it.
i will definitely have to look into those xcm cables, sounds like a good deal. i also need to test this thing out with my elgato, or as i call it the elchapo.
also there is no lag when transitioning from 240p to 480i like some ps1 and saturn titles do.
Remote control always is preferable to smartphone, because you'll build muscle memory. :) But that said, depends how much you'd want to switch settings wise.. :)

Ive now seen the GBS control menus. It also has an experimental "limited" signal mode (default out is full), so you could also create that 'mismatch' that gives you more saturation pop. More on that later - I'll make a comparison thread with images tomorrow.

From what I've seen it could be "good enough". Standout features of the GBS-C are motion adaptive deinterlacing, and the downscaler option. So if your goal is to use that on a CRT, that could be a nice addition allthough again, here you are talking mostly for original 240p games that are output in 480p on a newer console (which doesnt have a 240p output option anymore). So the use case is limited.

Downsides should be color accuracy (but I'd have to check that, could be youtubers having the signal chain misconfigured), and only analog outs.

In terms of color accuracy and image quality OSSC should win out. But the GBS-C will win out in 480i handling. I'm curious to test the GBS-C once I've gotten the parts and have built it, but I have a feeling I will stick with the OSSC as my main linedoubler/scaler. Mostly because of easy scanline adjustability and all kinds of color pallet adjustments I'll get into in my post tomorrow. (Probably in the 240p emulation guide thread.)

On the youtuber - its not an ego thing I'd find annoying or anything along those lines. I just get shill vibes. As in, person thats very happy to spread marketing messages. :) And probably very dedicated. Thats all.
 
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notimp

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You also need this:



https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=52172

This explains:
>Add a a resistor value in parallel with r26 to correct the ypbpr output brightness.
(can be compensated in software, not needed - but you then have limited video range out)



And for the clock mod you also need to
>Replace c47 with a 22uf cap to compensate for the increased power draw from the clock mod.
(more detail: 22uf 0805 order this on aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1626652703.html ) see:
163480-GBS-zusatz-jpg

for cap size and additional caps to add in parallel refer to: https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control/wiki/Power-supply-bypass-capacitors

can also be done to c48 if you attached the clock mod there.
see: https://www.retroupgrades.co.uk/guides/gbs-c-aio-kit-installation-guide/

edit: And here is a reference shot for replacing c11:
https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1406443#p1406443

Make sure its 6.3V to 16V.
 
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wolffangalchemist

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I finally got around to checking if it will work with my elgato game capture HD, and it does!
while all setting work for passing through video (except 15khz and passthrough in gbsc for obvious reasons) but to capture video gbs control has to be set to 720p or 1080p output, you might be able to capture the other resolution settings using software like obs studio instead of the stock elgato software but i have not tested it.
looks like a possible good alternative for a cheap streaming option for older consoles, while the game cature HD can accept composite, s-video, and component it won't look as good as a gbsc with good cables will over the hdmi input.
these can be had for as little as $30 usd working on ebay, and HD60s goes for around $45 and might be a batter option for most but dunno if it will play nice (i say better because it isn't limited to 30fps capture).
20211013_140005.jpg

20211013_140016.jpg
You also need this:



https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=52172

This explains:
>Add a a resistor value in parallel with r26 to correct the ypbpr output brightness.
(can be compensated in software, not needed - but you then have limited video range out)



And for the clock mod you also need to
>Replace c47 with a 22uf cap to compensate for the increased power draw from the clock mod.
(more detail: 22uf 0805 order this on aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1626652703.html ) see:
163480-GBS-zusatz-jpg

for cap size and additional caps to add in parallel refer to: https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control/wiki/Power-supply-bypass-capacitors

can also be done to c48 if you attached the clock mod there.
see: https://www.retroupgrades.co.uk/guides/gbs-c-aio-kit-installation-guide/

edit: And here is a reference shot for replacing c11:
https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1406443#p1406443

Make sure its 6.3V to 16V.
on that note, i did the one's of these i did not do before to see if i saw any benefits, but only really noticed a actually difference with the 330ohm resistor on r26 it does a lot for the brightness levels over component.
took some captures to show the differences.
20211013_163254.jpg

switch on for 330ohm
My Great Capture Screenshot 2021-10-13 21-40-50.png

off
My Great Capture Screenshot 2021-10-13 21-40-55.png

on
My Great Capture Screenshot 2021-10-13 21-40-00.png

off
My Great Capture Screenshot 2021-10-13 21-39-51.png
I also added a switch to the 100ohm resistor between syn and ground from what i have read and personally witnessed it makes vga in put signals look wonky and distorted and sometimes tear badly if left connected while using a vga source input.
i am gonna modifly the STL i used for this shell to accommodate these switches and some other stuff i might feel like adding after i clean up some of my test solders and rewire a few things.
 
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notimp

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I finally got around to checking if it will work with my elgato game capture HD, and it does!
while all setting work for passing through video (except 15khz and passthrough in gbsc for obvious reasons) but to capture video gbs control has to be set to 720p or 1080p output, you might be able to capture the other resolution settings using software like obs studio instead of the stock elgato software but i have not tested it.
looks like a possible good alternative for a cheap streaming option for older consoles, while the game cature HD can accept composite, s-video, and component it won't look as good as a gbsc with good cables will over the hdmi input.
these can be had for as little as $30 usd working on ebay, and HD60s goes for around $45 and might be a batter option for most but dunno if it will play nice (i say better because it isn't limited to 30fps capture).

on that note, i did the one's of these i did not do before to see if i saw any benefits, but only really noticed a actually difference with the 330ohm resistor on r26 it does a lot for the brightness levels over component.
took some captures to show the differences.
I also added a switch to the 100ohm resistor between syn and ground from what i have read and personally witnessed it makes vga in put signals look wonky and distorted and sometimes tear badly if left connected while using a vga source input.
i am gonna modifly the STL i used for this shell to accommodate these switches and some other stuff i might feel like adding after i clean up some of my test solders and rewire a few things.
Did you replace c11? Can you go into details about what difference it might have made? (Did not find many detailed descriptions).

Also, can we get a shot of the 330 ohm mod in parallel with r26, that also has r26 in the image? (or take two images.. ;) ) Does polarity matter, do you just tack together (in series) the 100 ohm and 220ohm resistor and then solder it in parallel to r26? ((with or) without a switch)?
edit: Ah resistors dont have polarity. Google = friend. :)

Grid dard, I hope I'll have steady hands for most of this.. :)
 

wolffangalchemist

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Did you replace c11? Can you go into details about what difference it might have made? (Did not find many detailed descriptions).

Also, can we get a shot of the 330 ohm mod in parallel with r26, that also has r26 in the image? (or take two images.. ;) ) Does polarity matter, do you just tack together (in series) the 100 ohm and 220ohm resistor and then solder it in parallel to r26? ((with or) without a switch)?
edit: Ah resistors dont have polarity. Google = friend. :)

Grid dard, I hope I'll have steady hands for most of this.. :)
I can take some pics later tommorow, i would suggest getting some practice in with smd soldering if you haven't any.
Find some junk electronics you can practice with, the small stuff can be a bit of a pita the first few times fooling with it.
 
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wolffangalchemist

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Some more pictures, some photos from my phone of the r26 and c11 modification and some shots of ps1 ps2 games after making a rgb cable for my ps2 with luma sync all upscaled to 720p widescreen. i haven't rewired or cleaned up anything yet so be warned (gotta find my magnet wire) some things look a bit grimy or unclean on the board.
20211014_114549.jpg
20211014_114612.jpg

20211015_011005.jpg

20211015_011001.jpg

20211015_010915.jpg

20211015_010615.jpg

20211015_010723.jpg
 

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