GBA SP no power

mmurp5972

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Green Joy-Con D-Pad Shells for Nintendo Switch
Green Joy-Con D-Pad Shells for Nintendo Switch

Hi all,

My power switch blinks red once when attempting to turn on, but then immediately goes off. I haven't gotten it to go green yet. The console still charges properly and shows the orange led when plugged in.

Things I've tried:
1) Replacing with battery with multiple,confirmed working batteries
2) Scrubbing whole board with 99% IPA
3) THOROUGHLY cleaned power switch by desoldering it and cleaning with IPA and cotton swab inside.

Still no luck, just this quick blink of red. I am not seeing any visible corrosion on the board. I do not own a multimeter and frankly I wouldn't even know which components to even look at or test.

Let me know if anyone has advice

EDIT: I got a multimeter but I'm not sure which parts to check relating to power issues.
Edit 2: added pics of power switch and back of board. Both fuses, power switch, EM8, and D1 to BT+, all check out properly for continuity
 
Last edited by mmurp5972,

ghjfdtg

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The power LED flashing red and then off kinda sounds like a short to me. The SP usually does exactly this on too high power draw. You will need a multimeter to debug this.
 

Esdeath

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You should check fuses F1 and F2, on the same side as F2 you should check EM8.

In a longer video I watched, neither were the fault and there was no connectionbetween the bottom right, abit under the screw, and the middle/top left. To make connection, the slot had to be removed first (quite a particular problem)
 

FAST6191

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You own the gear and have the skills to disassemble a small switch and clean its guts but don't own even the traditional el cheapo multimeter?

But yeah as others said fuses and the EM8 are where I would first look, more likely to be EM8 as well. We had a thread around here somewhere where it was noted EM8 was the same as EM10 I think it was (find the thread and check though) on one of the DSes and replacements for those were sold if EM8 proves hard to come by.
 

mmurp5972

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You own the gear and have the skills to disassemble a small switch and clean its guts but don't own even the traditional el cheapo multimeter?

But yeah as others said fuses and the EM8 are where I would first look, more likely to be EM8 as well. We had a thread around here somewhere where it was noted EM8 was the same as EM10 I think it was (find the thread and check though) on one of the DSes and replacements for those were sold if EM8 proves hard to come by.
Both F1 and F2 tested and have continuity, I'll take a look at EM8 tomorrow, buy how should the pins be tested for continuity? Are they connected across from each other?
 

mmurp5972

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Both F1 and F2 tested and have continuity, I'll take a look at EM8 tomorrow, buy how should the pins be tested for continuity? Are they connected across from each other?
EM8 is testing fine on multimeter. I suspect it's a bad trace somewhere but the board is pretty clean, the only place I can think is behind the cartridge reader but I don't own a heat gun to lift that up and check underneath
 

FAST6191

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EM8 tended to be visual when it is (usually a corner gone). Can't remember the pinout offhand but I think it was two coils in the thing, pins connected over the long sides of the chip.

As far as bad traces then outside of serious corrosion I have not really seen much there, though at the same time not many would have bothered looking (replace parts, reflow joints is one thing, serious tracing is another). https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/13913-STRIP-CLUB-PCB-Scans/?pageNo=1 has some stuff here.
 

ak1nok

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