Did i broke this nintendo 3ds pcb?

[LucanoAlNord]

I would like to know If I broke this nintendo 3ds xl pcb and if theres something I can do about to repair it.

 

[FAST6191]

Seems like you lifted some pads (though very cleanly, not sure how that happened -- normally expect to see burning and far rougher surfaces). Not sure what is going on with the pad next to 3.

It is an annoying fix -- you either get to scrape off the solder mask that is there and solder onto the remaining trace or find out if the pins in question go to any test points (often done for external connectors, though might be far away), pins on other chips or vias (the little gold edge holes you see around the place). Other than what I guess is the metal shell for that connector (usually just tied to the ground connector) it does not look like you broke any traces in the middle.
Never the less it is a fix you can do as an amateur with possibly only a fire starter iron, though if you have hot air soldering options then get those in. Do practice/hone the technique on something else first though.

 

[CoolMe]

What did you do to it? Did you remove the charging port?
What problems did you have with the system that made you do what you did?
You might to redo the soldering, and clean up the leftover flux with some 99% IPA too. the transmitters on the pcb might be damaged, i see some cuts on the pic..

 

[LucanoAlNord]

What did you do to it? Did you remove the charging port?
What problems did you have with the system that made you do what you did?
You might to redo the soldering, and clean up the leftover flux with some 99% IPA too. the transmitters on the pcb might be damaged, i see some cuts on the pic..

I, indeed, removed the charging port of a 3ds xl. I did it because the charging port didnt work, even after seeking all those "tips and tricks" that could've repaired my 3ds, but didnt.
Just want to ask whats 99% IPA, im a newbie in the world of soldering lmao.

 

[xoINARIox]

Just want to ask whats 99% IPA, im a newbie in the world of soldering lmao.

IPA=Isoprophylalcohol, can be used as a cleaner, thinner, degreaser.
Also referred to as 2-propanol, isopropyl alcohol or isopropanol (abbreviated IPA).

As a newbie in the field of soldering, you should rather start with other things than a 3ds (learn the basics first).... what you did there looks really bad

 

[LucanoAlNord]

Seems like you lifted some pads (though very cleanly, not sure how that happened -- normally expect to see burning and far rougher surfaces). Not sure what is going on with the pad next to 3.

It is an annoying fix -- you either get to scrape off the solder mask that is there and solder onto the remaining trace or find out if the pins in question go to any test points (often done for external connectors, though might be far away), pins on other chips or vias (the little gold edge holes you see around the place). Other than what I guess is the metal shell for that connector (usually just tied to the ground connector) it does not look like you broke any traces in the middle.
Never the less it is a fix you can do as an amateur with possibly only a fire starter iron, though if you have hot air soldering options then get those in. Do practice/hone the technique on something else first though.

I also posted this question on reddit; from what I understood, i should scrape off those connections and use a jumper wire... the only problem is that I cant do any of that. Any help is wanted lmao.

 

[FAST6191]

The jumper wire technique is not so bad. If you are thinking you need to manipulate 3mm long sections of wire then don't. Various methods to dodge that -- basic one being tack down a far longer wire with said 3mm (or maybe a bit more) to the bulk side of the board, manipulate the small end with tweezers (which also heat sink and stop the other from unsoldering) to the pin/remaining pad/other side of the break, solder that down (you presumably scraped off whatever needs doing and tinned things beforehand) and snip off one or both extra ends with side cutters. Others will choose to glue the thing in place (indeed I would probably glue the replacement socket down regardless -- the side pads/shell on most metal connectors is usually just a ground as it makes sense to be, this means if it is glued then you only need to make sure it is connected to the ground plane (some particularly cowboy style types ignore it as it is rarely used as one for the wire inside for low voltage consumer electronics, more as a protection and light interference dodge).

I would stay away from the conductive ink for this one as that might be a suggestion from some quarters. If it was a cheesy film plot scenario and that is all I had then I could make it work but for something this fine then it is no fun at all.

Option the third I already mentioned and is test points far away -- is this is for a charge cable there are usually two wires (power and ground) and the voltages here are around those of USB. Can then find a USB port from wherever sells them around you, glue it to the remains of the board* (I would suggest epoxy but superglue should still work, superglue is not as strong but can be removed with acetone). Find a power point and solder a wire from the relevant USB pin and another to a ground. Two wires, far more easy solder job, especially if it is to test points somewhere else) and end result is something that charges over USB rather than having to remember your 3ds specific charge cables.

*see also dead bug. The idea would be rather than the pins making contact with a board they stick up in the air (like a dead bug, makes more sense in an old school through hole chip with legs) and solder to those individually. Some then find a hot glue gun and squirt it around the newly soldered chip just in case there is some strain somehow though that might be overkill for this project (for a laptop charger that someone broke and I am replacing with something more custom then I do that).

 

[LucanoAlNord]

The jumper wire technique is not so bad. If you are thinking you need to manipulate 3mm long sections of wire then don't. Various methods to dodge that -- basic one being tack down a far longer wire with said 3mm (or maybe a bit more) to the bulk side of the board, manipulate the small end with tweezers (which also heat sink and stop the other from unsoldering) to the pin/remaining pad/other side of the break, solder that down (you presumably scraped off whatever needs doing and tinned things beforehand) and snip off one or both extra ends with side cutters. Others will choose to glue the thing in place (indeed I would probably glue the replacement socket down regardless -- the side pads/shell on most metal connectors is usually just a ground as it makes sense to be, this means if it is glued then you only need to make sure it is connected to the ground plane (some particularly cowboy style types ignore it as it is rarely used as one for the wire inside for low voltage consumer electronics, more as a protection and light interference dodge).

I would stay away from the conductive ink for this one as that might be a suggestion from some quarters. If it was a cheesy film plot scenario and that is all I had then I could make it work but for something this fine then it is no fun at all.

Option the third I already mentioned and is test points far away -- is this is for a charge cable there are usually two wires (power and ground) and the voltages here are around those of USB. Can then find a USB port from wherever sells them around you, glue it to the remains of the board* (I would suggest epoxy but superglue should still work, superglue is not as strong but can be removed with acetone). Find a power point and solder a wire from the relevant USB pin and another to a ground. Two wires, far more easy solder job, especially if it is to test points somewhere else) and end result is something that charges over USB rather than having to remember your 3ds specific charge cables.

*see also dead bug. The idea would be rather than the pins making contact with a board they stick up in the air (like a dead bug, makes more sense in an old school through hole chip with legs) and solder to those individually. Some then find a hot glue gun and squirt it around the newly soldered chip just in case there is some strain somehow though that might be overkill for this project (for a laptop charger that someone broke and I am replacing with something more custom then I do that).

I'll make sure someone can decode what you just said there, but other than that thanks.

 

[FAST6191]

If you are taking it to someone that can solder things (various higher end mobile phone and laptop repair should have this as a basic technique) then they will know all that already.

Videos if you want them

 

[rip-it-up]

i dont understand why you cant just clean up the pads and install a new port.