Hacking Criticize my Solder

[CPOStudios]

My Wiikey isn't recognizing any discs I burned (I burned every version, every update, etc., using DVD-R). So I'm thinking, based on my other topic, that this was a soldering problem. Here's a closeup of my soldering job:

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/5881/img3476zg7.jpg




Note to mods: I created two topics because my old topic name and content might not draw in the solder-savvy. I'll let the other thread die unless someone provides a helpful response.

 

[Tomobobo]

Well from looking at your image, it looks as if you've toasted off one of the resistors. There are two pads that are open between the VCC+ and GND, there's supposed to be a resistor in there. You're going to either have to find out the resistance and add another resistor, buy a new chip, or bridge the gap and hope for the best. Good luck.

Oh, and to criticize your solder. All of your joints look dry, as if you left the solder liquefied and heated for much too long. Try and do your soldering in a quick manner and you'll avoid this. Also, the quick-solder method is horrible, I always use wires.

 

[CPOStudios]

Are VCC+ and GND the two bigger ones? I can't believe I've done this. :\

How would I add a resistor and find the resistance? Would this be too complex for someone with no experience in this really? Or should I just bridge the two together and not bother?

 

[rightguardsport]

What kind of soldering iron did you use?

 

[Rykin]

Quicksolder is pretty bad because you can't even tell the VCC+ or the Groud are connected because view is blocked by the solder.

Yes, the VCC+ and GND are the two large solder points.

This is a random photo I pulled from google images. It shows the resistor that Tomo mentioned is missing.
http://www.consolesource.com/blog/wp-conte...7/05/wiikey.jpg

 

[CPOStudios]

Thanks guys, SO much. I've added copper wires to the VCC and GND. Basically I heated up the solder, and put the wire in until it touched the bottom, then cut the wire using wire cutters. I'll probably wire the other parts as well, which, correct me if I'm wrong, diminishes the need to re-solder to improve the quality of the solder.

How would I go about replacing the resistor? Would a chain store like Home Depot, Radioshack, etc. have it? I have a multi-meter for calculating the resistance of the part. I'm assuming it would entail connecting the metal contacts on the resistor to the metal contacts on the chip and putting a dot of glue in between, would that be correct?

 

[ProdigySim]

Thanks guys, SO much. I've added copper wires to the VCC and GND. Basically I heated up the solder, and put the wire in until it touched the bottom, then cut the wire using wire cutters. I'll probably wire the other parts as well, which, correct me if I'm wrong, diminishes the need to re-solder to improve the quality of the solder.

How would I go about replacing the resistor? Would a chain store like Home Depot, Radioshack, etc. have it? I have a multi-meter for calculating the resistance of the part. I'm assuming it would entail connecting the metal contacts on the resistor to the metal contacts on the chip and putting a dot of glue in between, would that be correct?

Well, judging by the way you managed to knock it loose before, it was probably just held there by solder.

Frankly, finding the resistor you knocked off and replacing it is the best way to go, but otherwise, you're probably going to have to find someone else to test the resistance of the resistor that you're missing.

Maybe contact WiiKey?

 

[Tomobobo]

Your multi-meter will calculate the resistance between two points, yes, but that's not what you need.

Look into open-wii and the wiikey firmware for it. Figure out what ohm resistors are used in building that chip, and you should know which resistor you need. Most radio shacks carry resistors.

I'd just find a cheap clone chip and re do your chip install.

And upon removing the chip, be careful not to bridge the points or damage the pads. Learn how to use and use solder wick to remove the chip.

 

[Armadillo]

C2 is a capacitor , not resistor. Apparently its value is 100nf.

 

[Gus122000]

May this be a learning experience for you.I did some crap like that last time(In which i failed at modding my wii).After that i learned how to do it myself.Next study it a little more and test your soldering skills on something else.

 

[CPOStudios]

So, should I buy a radial-lead, or axial-lead capacitor? There are 3 100µF capacitors at Radioshack. I'm assuming it's a capacitor, unless Armadillo is mistaken.

And if I'm understanding this properly: I just solder two ends of the capacitor to the leads on the Wiikey, possibly connect the contact using copper wire, and I should be able to get this thing working?

EDIT: sorry if I'm asking a lot, I am not much of an electrical/hardware person, but I'm not bad at working with things. One I know exactly what to do, I should be able to do it.

 

[zosh]

So, should I buy a radial-lead, or axial-lead capacitor?

That missing capacitor is very unlikely to be the reason for your problems. A capacitor between power and ground is only there to smoothen out power noise which, as the power is taken from very clean motherboard power sources, isn't there to begin with. Your chip should work fine even without it. Your problem is elsewhere.

The very first thing you should do is get a multimeter and check for clear connections between the chip's legs and the modchip's solder points, and also check whether there are bridges.

Edit: Of course it's noise, not spikes. Sorry.

 

[arsehat]

So, should I buy a radial-lead, or axial-lead capacitor? There are 3 100µF capacitors at Radioshack. I'm assuming it's a capacitor, unless Armadillo is mistaken.

No, according to Armadillo it's 100 nanofarad rather than the 100 microfarad you're asking about. 100 x 10^-9 Farad, rather than 100 x 10^-6 Farad. In other words, one thousandth of the value of what you were looking at.

Assuming that it is indeed 100 nf, that's 0.1 microfarad. So, this might be more like what you're looking for:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2062365


Edit: But, of course, as others have quite rightly pointed out, it's just acting as a filter/bypass cap to remove noise that might be present on Vcc - and, of course, to stop the chip on the Wiikey injecting noise back into the supply rail. Its exact value, and indeed even its presence or absence, probably shouldn't be a 100% showstopper.

 

[cory1492]

That cap is there to filter noise on the power line. If you have just about anything (that is broken, preferably - I often use old PS2's or cell phones for such scavenging) with SMD caps on it, you can scam one that is approximately the same size and color of the original with little worry that it will badly affect the operation of the device. As stated above, having it missing likely isn't the reason why the device isn't working, it's much more likely those two holes covered with blobs haven't wicked to the board and made a connection to the leads they are supposed to connect to.

As to the soldering, I have one word that would make all the difference in the flow. Flux. Just make sure it's for electronics - ie: not acid based (like plumbers would use on pipes.)

To be critical instead of just trying to be helpful... you didn't use flux and use far too much solder on those joints. You're fired.