Hacking Hardware After a failed attempt to unlock the Switch OLED, the screen appears greenish and jagged, while in the dock it works perfectly.

[loro]

Hello everybody!

After a failed attempt to unlock my Switch OLED and try to revert, I unfortunately came across this image issue. The screen appears greenish and jagged, but on the docking station it works perfectly. Other switch functions also work without problems.

I made some mistakes during installation, I’ll list them:

• I dropped a bubble of solder near a Realtek chip next to the 3.3V point on the mod chip. I don’t believe this is the problem, as the solder solidified before it stuck with the connections, so I was able to remove it completely without damage or shorting.
• I incorrectly soldered the DAT0 twice. First I connected it to point B of the flex (which connects to the RST), after identifying the error, I soldered it again wrongly (yes, I know…). But this time at point D (which connects to CLK). Both times I turned on the Switch to test and nothing appeared on the screen. I don’t know if this could have caused a short on the board.

I did a visual inspection of the board to see if I had ripped out any components, left anything shorted or damaged, especially in the spots where I worked, but I didn’t find anything.

After reversing the mod chip connections, the switch turned on normally, but with this problem in the image. Does anyone have any idea what it could be or have faced a similar problem?

I’m very upset about what happened. Now I have this problem on the screen and without unlocking. Any contribution will be welcome!

 

[linkinworm]

If you've powered on the switch with any bridged or wrong connections, likely that you've sent too much voltage somewhere it should'nt have and its broken something that sends the signal to the screen. you might get luckly buying a new screen and hope it ain't the motherboard thats damaged. only real option would be to see if you can get a donar screen to test with and hope it doesn't break that one.

 

[superxoi]

Hello everybody!

After a failed attempt to unlock my Switch OLED and try to revert, I unfortunately came across this image issue. The screen appears greenish and jagged, but on the docking station it works perfectly. Other switch functions also work without problems.

I made some mistakes during installation, I’ll list them:

• I dropped a bubble of solder near a Realtek chip next to the 3.3V point on the mod chip. I don’t believe this is the problem, as the solder solidified before it stuck with the connections, so I was able to remove it completely without damage or shorting.
• I incorrectly soldered the DAT0 twice. First I connected it to point B of the flex (which connects to the RST), after identifying the error, I soldered it again wrongly (yes, I know…). But this time at point D (which connects to CLK). Both times I turned on the Switch to test and nothing appeared on the screen. I don’t know if this could have caused a short on the board.

I did a visual inspection of the board to see if I had ripped out any components, left anything shorted or damaged, especially in the spots where I worked, but I didn’t find anything.

After reversing the mod chip connections, the switch turned on normally, but with this problem in the image. Does anyone have any idea what it could be or have faced a similar problem?

I’m very upset about what happened. Now I have this problem on the screen and without unlocking. Any contribution will be welcome!

View attachment 443571View attachment 443572View attachment 443573

You have some bent pins when you inserted the cable in, nothing to worry about. Just put the benting pins back into it places and your switch will be fine.

 

[loro]

You have some bent pins when you inserted the cable in, nothing to worry about. Just put the benting pins back into it places and your switch will be fine.

Unfortunately there are no bent pins I would like to believe so...

I removed the connector and cleaned it a few times with IPA alcohol, but to no avail. I took a photo so you can see, the only anomaly I saw is on the second pin on the left, but I tested it with the multimeter and it continues

 

[superxoi]

Unfortunately there are no bent pins I would like to believe so...

I removed the connector and cleaned it a few times with IPA alcohol, but to no avail. I took a photo so you can see, the only anomaly I saw is on the second pin on the left, but I tested it with the multimeter and it continuesView attachment 443659

Do you have a microscope? Take a picture of the connector from the microscope for me friend. If you don't have then at least post a picture of your connector pins not this one. I don't see anything from this picture.
Now is nearly 1 a.m from my country i will reply you in tomorrow then.

 

[loro]

Do you have a microscope? Take a picture of the connector from the microscope for me friend. If you don't have then at least post a picture of your connector pins not this one. I don't see anything from this picture.
Now is nearly 1 a.m from my country i will reply you in tomorrow then.

I really appreciate your help, it really was a pin on the connector.

Unfortunately I don't have a microscope, but I'll provide one. With the naked eye and with tweezers I managed to adjust it a little, partially solving the problem, now green bands are occasionally flashing on the screen. I will wait for the microscope to arrive to avoid any more problems.

Again, thank you very much for your time!

 

[superxoi]

I really appreciate your help, it really was a pin on the connector.

Unfortunately I don't have a microscope, but I'll provide one. With the naked eye and with tweezers I managed to adjust it a little, partially solving the problem, now green bands are occasionally flashing on the screen. I will wait for the microscope to arrive to avoid any more problems.

Again, thank you very much for your time!View attachment 443683

Next time you assembly a switch. Making sure you do the lcd connector first before putting the board in the chassis to avoid benting the pins. The worst case scenario is that you have to replace the connector. It is not that hard. If you don't have the microscope you can attemp the replacing then.