a problem with my Creative EP-630 earphones.

Discussion in 'Computer Games and General Discussion' started by test84, Jul 1, 2008.

Jul 1, 2008
  1. test84
    OP

    Member test84 GBAtemp's last ninja 2.

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    Hi,
    got mine a pair of Creative EP-630 earphones
    [​IMG]

    and they were good since suddenly its left earphone's sound volume got into like 5% of its original sound but not muted.

    I opened the casing and all the soldering were intact, tried hitting it small, moving n' twisting the cord, no luck.

    I wondered (especially from FAST), if anyone knows any solution since I heard its a common problem.

    (I cant return it, they got it from states and I live in a Iran, so no returning to store).

    Thanx you all peoples.
     
  2. FAST6191

    Reporter FAST6191 Techromancer

    pip
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    I assume this is for all devices and so definitely a headphone problem. Before going on you will need an ohm meter or some way to measure resistance. I assume you have a clean jack as well (it says gold which is usually fairly good for this sort of thing).

    Anyhow I have not got a pair of the headphones but they look like nice ones and worth fixing:
    http://www.dabs.com/productview.aspx?quicklinx=4JJF
    From what I can tell they are direct socket to headphone (no volume, mic or anything like that) which is a good thing.

    Low sound is usually caused by massive resistance which is caused by a bad connection somewhere along the line or in rare cases the power/signal being grounded before it goes through the phone.
    Headphone wiring:
    http://www.headwize.com/faqs.htm#access
    If you can run a ohm meter across the tip (not the ring) and the section nearest the sheath you should able to confirm the big resistance (bear in mind the phones themselves clock 16 ohms so presumably 8 for each phone, I have however seen the resistance terms as the whole array, the phones together, each phone....... so some testing will be needed to confirm) or if it is much lower then you have a short. Rather nicely you have a control setup in the right phone so I will leave to you to confirm what is what.

    It now depends on how you want to go, the three main causes are a bad connection at the phone, the plug or a fatigued wire (usually around a harsh bend and not helped by the fact the wire is "pure"/electrical grade copper, search for SN curves for different materials if you are curious).
    Alas all three are fairly horrible to put right as you will usually have to get into factory sealed thermoset plastics (not designed or easy to get into for the end user).
    Looking at the price though it is worth it so what to do:

    The wire is what I suggest you go for first and is the simplest to test for (assuming the crack occurs in the bulk of the wires length). The wire itself should have a really low resistance if it is working correctly (to the point your meter will probably be inaccurate and measure itself, best to put it under some tension to make sure you do not accidentally make a connection where is not usually one (what wiggling the wire does))
    On the other hand the actual joints can provide point of motion and so fatigue can occur there. You could try measuring the resistance between the signal and the ground wire or you could try from wire to join. In the case of the latter oxides can appear on the solder joins surface so you will need to scratch it a bit to get rid of the oxide before you stick you meter across the wires or risk getting an inaccurate reading (this being said a bad reading will just be "out" by a little but, a bad connection will be fairly obvious in that it will be far higher). The problem comes however in that you could be diagnosing a bad join (things can get termed a good join by their resistance but then slip to make a bad join)

    If is is the plug (test by measuring the jack to the wire you will have exposed and resistance will be near 0, connections can be a bit funny) and a simple resolder will not do I would suggest swapping it out for another by cutting the wire further up and soldering a new end on. From here you can play around with the broken end (and if you tape up the joins you can then splice the fixed end on to test it).

    The bud is a hard one, the magnets are neodymium which have a curie temp of around 310 celcius aka modern soldering iron range (lead-tin solder is appreciably lower but I have no idea if what they used (design is circa 2005 and you said you got them in the US which means it could be anything), if it is a silver based solder (common in Japan and most other places) you are looking at more problems although you still have a decent safety range). Basically be quick and have a heatsink. As I eluded to your biggest problem here will be getting the case apart without breaking it (which from photos looks to be quite hard).
     
  3. test84
    OP

    Member test84 GBAtemp's last ninja 2.

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    thnx FAST for your reply,so wise and patient as always, I wish I could do something for you in return.

    I was asleep and when I woke up, it was working!

    I tried twisting the wires at jacks to detect where is the faulty spot but I didnt find any.
     
  4. ShreevatsShreeva

    Newcomer ShreevatsShreeva Newbie

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  5. Another World

    Former Staff Another World Emulate the Planet!

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    you just bumped a post from 2008. you might have wanted to PM the OP, i doubt they are looking at this thread in 2012.

    -another world
     

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