2ds charging light turns on, but battery never charges

Discussion in '3DS - Console, Accessories and Hardware' started by x65943, Dec 31, 2018.

  1. x65943
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    x65943 Dr. Rabbi Prince X, Sr., Ed. D.

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    Has anyone else had this issue before/have any ideas on how to fix it?

    I was fixing a few 2ds yesterday, and had this issue with one of them.

    The orange charging light turns on when plugged in, but the battery never charges.

    I have tried replacing the battery, using a different cord and charging the system over night.

    Nothing has worked. Is there some component which might be malfunctioning? Thanks.
     
  2. KleinesSinchen

    KleinesSinchen The Backup Reminder

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    There has been a similar case with NO orange light:
    https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintendo-2ds-unable-to-charge.522330/

    Don't really know about this stuff. But I don't think there are much options left:
    • battery
    • charger
    • fuse(s)
    • charging IC
    Can the light still turn on if one or both fuses are blown or the charging IC is damaged? No idea. You could at least check the fuses.

    Is this in any way connected to your status message?
     
  3. x65943
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    x65943 Dr. Rabbi Prince X, Sr., Ed. D.

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    No that was a different 2ds

    I did see the previous topic but am not sure how they may be related as I don't know what triggers the charge indicator light
     
    Last edited by x65943, Dec 31, 2018
  4. TurdPooCharger

    TurdPooCharger Meh

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    Ah, crap baskets. All those images hosted on imgbb.com are fading away. I kept iamge copies, but the thought of going through post history and re-uploading them on GBAtemp will le suck.

    The light will kick on if at least one(?) fuse works. If any are bad, charging will be either slow or never at all. You will need to disassemble and test the fuses for continuity with a multimeter. If those are good (no clue/don't recall of o2DS fuse locations), that post Ms. Sinchen linked was edited with the image of the charging chip.
     
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  5. x65943
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    x65943 Dr. Rabbi Prince X, Sr., Ed. D.

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    I did some work on this 2ds to replace the screen a while back and I don't think it has ever charged correctly after that.

    Don't have a voltmeter atm, could you recommend one?

    My guess is it's one of those fuses. Are they replaceable?
     
  6. TurdPooCharger

    TurdPooCharger Meh

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    Hmm, that's odd this charging issue occurred after screen repair. Re-examine the charging port for any wiggling for the inside pin and the port itself.

    Here's a hobby grade, general purpose multimeter. Call me bias as I have this very same model, but this one's nice to hold. If you get this one, it has back lighting, hold & record value, and beeping speaker to let you know you have continuity.
    Yes, but not without decent soldering and tweezer skills. The micro-fuses are stupid tiny. Here's a fuse for the n3DSXL for example. I don't have a o2DS, but it appears one of them is near the charging port. Look at that referred image with charging chip, it's next to the F1. I think the the board labelled with F's are the fuses.

    3ds example fuse.

    Edit - For the o2DS, F2 is below the SD card game cart slot neighboring R10 and C28.​
     
    Last edited by TurdPooCharger, Dec 31, 2018
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  7. x65943
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    x65943 Dr. Rabbi Prince X, Sr., Ed. D.

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    [​IMG]
    F1 and F2 have continuity

    Kind of at a loss

    Any way I can check the other components? I don't want to start replacing stuff if it isn't the problem.
     
  8. TurdPooCharger

    TurdPooCharger Meh

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    Other than the charging adapter, battery, charger port, and micro-fuses, you're left to contend with are the power supply filter and IC charging chip.

    Because information for the (o/n)(2/3)DS(XL/LL) is scarce for the [power supply filter / electromagnetic filter / common mode choke], we have to refer to the Nintendo DS(i) (XL/lite) under the assumption that their shared AC charger standard and similiar layout around the charger port means this component should be compatible.

    The power supply filter for the DS(i) has the informal part number EM10.
    These are the specifications found about this part:
    Code:
    Brand new original Nintendo DS lite EM10 Spare part
    Part Number on Nintendo DS motherboard: EM10
    Operating Temperature Range:  - 25 C to + 85 C
    Termination Style:  SMD/SMT
    Test Frequency:  100 MHz
    MAX DC Resistance (DCR): 200 mOhm
    Maximum DC Current:  1 A
    Filter Type: Common Mode - 2 Line Array
    Mounting Type: Surface Mount (Soldering)
    Packaging: Tape & Reel (TR)
    Lead Free Status: Lead Free
    Impedance 600 Ohm
    
    Dimensions us | metric
    Depth: 0.3 mm
    Height: 0.4 mm
    Width:  0.3 mm
    Product Weight: 0.1 g
    Late Edit #2 - Ignore above measurements. Check with ruler as the real size is roughly 3mm x 2.5 mm when using this image. There's probably a +1 mm tolerance.
    
    SKU: 2109600
    Code: NDSLR 2347
    Searching eBay, Amazon, and aliexpress turned up empty as this part has long been discontinued. Also searching at digikey and mouser for similar spec'd chocks didn't yield any results.* The only known e-store that still stocks this is:
    Late Edit #1 - Found two addition sources.
    * [ADDENDUM] - The closest matching common mode choke that I found is made by Pulse Electronics with part number PE-1210CCMC601STS. The footprint, impedance @ frequency, and max current rating are exact to EM10, but where it differs is that its max DC resistance is 120 mOhm. Whether or not being short of 80 mOhm is acceptable is unknown.
    However, both iFixit and Retro Video Game Repair states the power supply filter is a concern when you don't see the LED charging indicator light up. That means you can rule this one out, which leaves the IC charging chip.
    The part number for this chip made by Texas Instruments is BQ24072. Here's a quick search from digikey:
    As for which exact option you should choose of the several listed there, I don't believe there's a wrong pick if they all have the same specs. The additional trailing tags in the part number probably refer to slight revisions, production batches, and packaging.

    ***

    If the thought of workstation reflow (heat gun) and soldering does not appeal to you, there's replacing the motherboard for $20-$30 depending whether you buy it from China or US. You will have to account for the additional WiFi module and antenna. See the explanation in the next break below.

    ***

    I noticed the motherboard you have is a revised model as there's a difference around this area. Yours is mostly like from a newer o2DS that has the WiFi chip integrated into the board.

    o2DS board difference.
     
    Last edited by TurdPooCharger, Jan 4, 2019
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