I tested with a prototype like that, it works on a classic switch emmc but I don't have the right dimensions for the measurements of an oled switch.
Do you have a real PCB in your hands?
I tested with a prototype like that, it works on a classic switch emmc but I don't have the right dimensions for the measurements of an oled switch.
ah! I hadn't considered a pcb thin enough to slot under the emmc. that should greatly help with alignment wasn't expecting to see such a fully-formed solution so quickly as well; very good jobI tested with a prototype like that, it works on a classic switch emmc but I don't have the right dimensions for the measurements of an oled switch.
Only my prototype that I made with a fpcb ( thickness: 0.1mm) that I cut to the right size.Do you have a real PCB in your hands?
How did you connect to dat0? Did you pretin the point on your PCB and applied hot air, once it was in place to join the ball?Only my prototype that I made with a fpcb ( thickness: 0.1mm) that I cut to the right size.
I was talking about this with a friend of mine yesterday, but I was talking about those 0.1 enameled wires. They are very malleable though.I was originally quite skeptical of the possibility of a solution similar to the corona postfix adapter due to the clearance, depth, and pitch of the emmc's BGA, but I was in fact able to snake a tinned magnet wire under the chip and get continuity to the dat0 test point on a switch lite board. I will be looking into this further; I am certainly not opposed to the hot air rework method, but also would not mind if it was rendered unnecessary
No, I thought I would slide the fpcb upwards and then fix the fpcb with the 3 anchoring points.How did you connect to dat0? Did you pretin the point on your PCB and applied hot air, once it was in place to join the ball?
Hmmm, did you have a chance to test it for continuity? Is it a stable connection?No, I thought I would slide the fpcb upwards and then fix the fpcb with the 3 anchoring points.
1- pull the fpcb down then weld point 1.
2 - to the right and weld point 2
3- Fix the Fpcb position with point 3.
This will by "tricky" to do on the OLEDs since the eMMC is "enclosed" in those metal frame. Right?No, I thought I would slide the fpcb upwards and then fix the fpcb with the 3 anchoring points.
1- pull the fpcb down then weld point 1.
2 - to the right and weld point 2
3- Fix the Fpcb position with point 3.
The shield can be removed and reapplied afterwards.This will by "tricky" to do on the OLEDs since the eMMC is "enclosed" in those metal frame. Right?
Also, what did you use as the "needle"?
Just trying to make sure we're talking about the same thingThe shield can be removed and reapplied afterwards.
Whoof, that looks rough.Layout pictures for SX Lite/HWFLY Lite
View attachment 280796
View attachment 280798
View attachment 280835
Reference: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Wq4y197i6/
I tested with a prototype like that, it works on a classic switch emmc but I don't have the right dimensions for the measurements of an oled switch.
gl aligning it cause it will kill the chip if you mess upWhat do you guys think about pre-tinning the end of some 30 gauge wire, sliding it in and guessing where point c is (based on pics) and then heat up the bga to melt the solder.....
gl aligning it cause it will kill the chip if you mess up
The two pins you mentioned are not connected inside the eMMC but the pins on the board could be connected to ground.Ya good point. I heard the 2 pins on the corner (let's call it pins 1 and 2) don't do anything so bridging those probably won't kill the chip...but bridging point C (pin 3) and the one beside it 'pin 4' definitely would kill it....ya...that's risky OK. Guess I will patiently wait for my BGA 153 stencil