So I was at my mom's last week and I found my old Wii Mote Batteries. They are easy to teardown and I was thinking if I could add new beefier batteries to it?
Should be able to fit AA batteries in there. Sad thing is every single rechargeable battery pack for the Wiimotes I've seen has been AAA based, other than the Energizer ones I originally bought. The batteries in them eventually wouldn't hold charge anymore so I went looking for a replacement but couldn't find a single good one. The AAAs only last a few hours (maybe 6-8 hours), the AAs lasted 20+ hours easily. Even the later Energizer ones are AAA based. Granted the AA based ones didn't fit very well and took force and the right technique to get in so they were probably pushing the limit of what they could fit in there. Even so I'd much rather have that, since they hardly ever need to be removed anyway, than have a third of the battery life. One drawback though was the battery pack and lid were one piece so to press the sync button I had to slightly lift the lid and use something thin to hit the sync button, there was no hole for it either. That might've been one reason they switched to using a separate lid piece which then presumably made the plastic too thick to fit AAs anymore.So I was at my mom's last week and I found my old Wii Mote Batteries. They are easy to teardown and I was thinking if I could add new beefier batteries to it?
And the controller will not allow like a lite-ion battery? something that I can solder in and close the thing?Should be able to fit AA batteries in there. Sad thing is every single rechargeable battery pack for the Wiimotes I've seen has been AAA based, other than the Energizer ones I originally bought. The batteries in them eventually wouldn't hold charge anymore so I went looking for a replacement but couldn't find a single good one. The AAAs only last a few hours (maybe 6-8 hours), the AAs lasted 20+ hours easily. Even the later Energizer ones are AAA based. Granted the AA based ones didn't fit very well and took force and the right technique to get in so they were probably pushing the limit of what they could fit in there. Even so I'd much rather have that, since they hardly ever need to be removed anyway, than have a third of the battery life. One drawback though was the battery pack and lid were one piece so to press the sync button I had to slightly lift the lid and use something thin to hit the sync button, there was no hole for it either. That might've been one reason they switched to using a separate lid piece which then presumably made the plastic too thick to fit AAs anymore.
Lipos measure 4.2V when fully charged which is much higher than 2 AAs/AAAs measuring about 3.2V. The extra voltage could damage something. Additionally, lipos need a different charge controller than NiMh cells. You could make something using a lipo charge controller board and a 3V voltage regulator and charging it with USB, you would end up with something similar to https://retrosix.co.uk/CleanJuice-USB-C-Battery-Pack-V1-1-Game-Boy-Advance-p195931214 and likely require slightly trimming the shell of the Wiimote to fit.And the controller will not allow like a lite-ion battery? something that I can solder in and close the thing?
Lipos measure 4.2V when fully charged which is much higher than 2 AAs/AAAs measuring about 3.2V. The extra voltage could damage something. Additionally, lipos need a different charge controller than NiMh cells. You could make something using a lipo charge controller board and a 3V voltage regulator and charging it with USB, you would end up with something similar to https://retrosix.co.uk/CleanJuice-USB-C-Battery-Pack-V1-1-Game-Boy-Advance-p195931214 and likely require slightly trimming the shell of the Wiimote to fit.
What you already have would not be useful for a lipo conversion as you would need a new board and trimming a lot of plastic on the lid so you may as well use the original Nintendo lids that will require less trimming (just need a hole for the USB port on the lid and trimming the dividers on the inside of the Wiimote itself)
Can you link them, or tell me the Brand?I've bought some rechargeable lithium AA batteries for my Wiimote in the past. They're expensive (about 15$/pair) but are much better than regular ones. A single charge lasts long (about a month), and batteries themselves have good lifespan (I'm using them for more than 2 years now...)
Thanks bunch! Will get them after I finish Persona 5 Royal! I really want to go back and play some of the Wii exclusives. They are a lot of fun!Hi @Robika . Not advertising but those worked well with my Wiimote (They're 1.5V). They come with a charger :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32796217032.html
I use Jugee ones for something else, they have higher capacity than the ones he linked, and the charger can charge 4 batteries at a time. I think I paid $60 for a set with charger and 8 batteries. They are good but not necessary for Wii remotes, the capacity is not much higher than that of Eneloop AAs for example. The main benefits are they work better for high drain applications such as flashlights, digital cameras and such and the voltage doesn't drop until the battery is nearly empty, so they don't have a gradual loss of voltage that can affect some types of devices.Can you link them, or tell me the Brand?
I use Jugee ones for something else, they have higher capacity than the ones he linked… the capacity is not much higher than that of Eneloop AAs… the voltage doesn't drop until the battery is nearly empty, so they don't have a gradual loss of voltage that can affect some types of devices.
Indeed that is one benefit of the Jugee that most of the others don't have though I haven't let them drain to test how much of a warning you actually get or if they immediately die minutes later.I use Kentli rechargeable Lithium AA/AAAs for my Wiimote and my hearing-aid button battery charger respectively so they get the expected 2x1.5V. IIRC the capacity is smaller than NiMH rechargeables, but still reasonably long.
There is some clever circuitry stepping down the ~4V to 1.5, so you don't get much warning that they are empty. Jugee actually advertise a 1.1V step just at the end, but I think the Kentlis also show a lower voltage at the end, but maybe it's not so stable?