I did as good as I could but there is still a little left which I tried cleaning off for over an hour.
That picture isn't high res enough to see the board the way its been uploaded. Are you using 99% IPA and letting it sit with a soaked cotton ball? It should just wipe off clean with a tooth brush, if it doesn't that's something else. For the most part thermal paste isn't really electrically conductive either, might be a completely different problem.
Hard shut down by holding power and see if you can boot into Recovery Mode by holding Vol + and - during boot. If you can't get into Recovery let the battery drain on the blue screen until it dies and then let it sit on the dock and try again. If it does boot into Recovery then you need to do a Factory Reset.
Last edited by raging_chaos,
If the thermal paste is metal based it can create shorts on the board, and IPA should be enough to remove it. Try using a toothbrush, but don't be too harsh.
Another -better- option is an ultrasonic bath, but it's not something we have at hand unless we use it for electronic repairs.
Another -better- option is an ultrasonic bath, but it's not something we have at hand unless we use it for electronic repairs.
Some regular thermal pastes can be conductive. Having slivers of sliver in the paste used to be a thing. Without knowing what paste was used it's impossible to know for sure.
Underneath that shield every single capacitor is buried in it not just the CPU. To be very specific, the stock thermal paste Nintendo uses that's also in the picture is not conductive. Not discussing thermal paste theory here, a blue screen of death is probably nand or battery related.
Last edited by raging_chaos,
for the ram only point have acces is power rail 1.8V and 1.1V
(test with no power no battery and no charger for ohms)
F3 - 1.8V and 13K ohm ( 11 -15K ) test for a minimum of 5-10 seconds to stabilize
E2 - 1.1V and 900 ohm ( 700-1K )
for nand i don't know how repair , it never happened to me.
if soc need reball you can test this;
press the soc (not the ram) when push power (Try several times on all 4 angles) strong but not too. its hurts the finger!!
it is necessary to hold until the boot or the blue screen and remained several times
if blue screen starts again
if ball is break that create more contact on soc, sometime it's work for test, sometime not.
it is already happened to me to press the soc without it working but after a reball the switch worked again
(test with no power no battery and no charger for ohms)
F3 - 1.8V and 13K ohm ( 11 -15K ) test for a minimum of 5-10 seconds to stabilize
E2 - 1.1V and 900 ohm ( 700-1K )
for nand i don't know how repair , it never happened to me.
if soc need reball you can test this;
press the soc (not the ram) when push power (Try several times on all 4 angles) strong but not too. its hurts the finger!!
it is necessary to hold until the boot or the blue screen and remained several times
if blue screen starts again
if ball is break that create more contact on soc, sometime it's work for test, sometime not.
it is already happened to me to press the soc without it working but after a reball the switch worked again
Last edited by ppzikos,
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