Things you have fixed/modded recently

hippy dave

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It wasn't broken but I just refurbished my old PS4 Chonky Boi today. Since I bought it used 3 years ago, it's worked fine but been loud as hell. I took it all apart, cleaned the dust out from everywhere, and replaced the thermal paste. It's so much quieter now, was well worth the time - can still hear the fan spin up, but it's no longer so loud my wife complains and tells me to play it in another room.
 

slaphappygamer

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It wasn't broken but I just refurbished my old PS4 Chonky Boi today. Since I bought it used 3 years ago, it's worked fine but been loud as hell. I took it all apart, cleaned the dust out from everywhere, and replaced the thermal paste. It's so much quieter now, was well worth the time - can still hear the fan spin up, but it's no longer so loud my wife complains and tells me to play it in another room.
I wish I had another room to go to with a console. This is why I like handhelds so much. Lol
 

Tom Bombadildo

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I replaced the 20gb HDD in my iMac G3 I got a bit ago with a 64gb SSD, and also just swapped the RAM from 256mb to 1gb total so it's real fast now B-) I'll need to either replace or repair the optical drive that's in it, since it just spits out CDs, but for now I'm fine with just mounting ISOs. SNES games look super nice emulated on the CRT :yay:

The last couple months I also spent tricking out a Dell Poweredge R710 server, had to basically get everything for it (new motherboard, PSUs, RAM, HDDs, CPUs, fans, RAID card, etc). After around $400 total spent, it's got all 5 chassis fans, 2x Xeon X5680s, 96gb of RAM, 4x 2TB SAS drives, 2x 870w PSUs, and a GTX 750 Ti haphazardly shoved into the case in a very awkward way. It's currently running Proxmox which is hosting 3 main VMs, one Windows 10 VM I'm using to monitor/record my security cams (and for any other Windows things I may need), a Linux Mint VM that's used for work, and then for shits and giggles I setup an OS X High Sierra VM because it tickles me to have all three major consumer OS's running on one box at the same time (that's what the 750 Ti is for, passing that through so I have hardware acceleration in OS X :lol:).

Dunno if this counts technically for this thread, but I replaced the breaks in my BMW X3 last week, too :lol:
 

wiitendo84

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I replaced the 20gb HDD in my iMac G3 I got a bit ago with a 64gb SSD, and also just swapped the RAM from 256mb to 1gb total so it's real fast now B-) I'll need to either replace or repair the optical drive that's in it, since it just spits out CDs, but for now I'm fine with just mounting ISOs. SNES games look super nice emulated on the CRT :yay:

The last couple months I also spent tricking out a Dell Poweredge R710 server, had to basically get everything for it (new motherboard, PSUs, RAM, HDDs, CPUs, fans, RAID card, etc). After around $400 total spent, it's got all 5 chassis fans, 2x Xeon X5680s, 96gb of RAM, 4x 2TB SAS drives, 2x 870w PSUs, and a GTX 750 Ti haphazardly shoved into the case in a very awkward way. It's currently running Proxmox which is hosting 3 main VMs, one Windows 10 VM I'm using to monitor/record my security cams (and for any other Windows things I may need), a Linux Mint VM that's used for work, and then for shits and giggles I setup an OS X High Sierra VM because it tickles me to have all three major consumer OS's running on one box at the same time (that's what the 750 Ti is for, passing that through so I have hardware acceleration in OS X :lol:).

Dunno if this counts technically for this thread, but I replaced the breaks in my BMW X3 last week, too :lol:
I hate doing brakes. Had to replace the brake line on my expedition a couple of months ago. Other than that today I get to change out the led headlights and turn signals on it. Have to go back to the old lights because the led lights, let's just say you cant get replacements for what was installed. They are connected to some boxes with no way to replace them.
 

Inaki

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I added a reset button to the Wii mini. I installed the reset switch for entering Priiloader because, in this setup where Priiloader autostarts USB loader GX, if you don't have any wiimote already registered while being on System Menu or a game, you are not able to sync it on USB loader GX, so you are kinda stuck. On the wii mini, yes, you can plug a usb keyboard and enter Priiloader menu by pressing ESCAPE when booting, but that is a PITA, so I added the reset button to be on the same level of ease we have with our classic wiis.

https://imgur.com/gallery/psJfknV
 

hippy dave

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I added a reset button to the Wii mini. I installed the reset switch for entering Priiloader because, in this setup where Priiloader autostarts USB loader GX, if you don't have any wiimote already registered while being on System Menu or a game, you are not able to sync it on USB loader GX, so you are kinda stuck. On the wii mini, yes, you can plug a usb keyboard and enter Priiloader menu by pressing ESCAPE when booting, but that is a PITA, so I added the reset button to be on the same level of ease we have with our classic wiis.

https://imgur.com/gallery/psJfknV
Nice, and that magnifying screen is nifty af.
 

Alexander1970

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Hello.:)

Today:

A BIOS Update for the Gigabyte H55M-USB3 Mainboard with the Gigabyte BIOS Tool under Windows 10.
I looked on the Homepage and found a last updated Version (F11).
Actual it was Version F10.

Now the Detection Time for the SATA Raid Controller was faster now.
(There is no Option in the BIOS to skip it,before it checked up to 7 - 8 Seconds,now it boots directly into Windows.)

The CPU seems also to work a little "balanced/stable".
Before under Full Load it goes up to 68° now it works at a maximum of 65°
(The CPU has a Stock Frequency of 2.93 Ghz,it was "raised" to 3.5 Ghz and today again raised to 3.6 Ghz).

Yes,tiny,little "Improvements" but very nice.
It makes still Fun to see/notice them.

Thank you.:)
 
Last edited by Alexander1970,
D

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it wasnt broken, but i dismantled the 360 controlelr i use with my pc and gave it a good clean, first time i've cleaned it since i got it 5 years ago, at first glance it even looks brand new but still has small details giving it away
 

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converted a famicom controller and and added another POKEY

STEREO POKEY ftw!

i just need anohter 256k, or an Ultimate 1 Megabyte upgrade...




IMG_20200525_171948417.jpg
IMG_20200520_020211389.png
 
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Kopimist

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its not much, but the laser in my original playstation is failing and it stopped reading backups altogether so I tweaked the pot in it to read backups again :). Gonna drive that thing into the ground until the laser eventually goes kaputs, then I'll replace it.
 

emcintosh

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Repaired: Subpac M1 (body-mounted silent sub-woofer / rumble [back]pack)
Bought as for-parts. Audio signal passed though to headphones, connector leading into body of device reported 16 V AC signal at full intensity. But no rumble : (. I took it apart and found that the wires leading to the coil in one of the two (series-wired) actuators (which seem to be Dayton TT25s - one 8 ohm and one 16 ohm, though Subpac say they're a custom model) had broken. I soldered new wire into place and it works again. The subpac is essentially a speaker with the diaphragm being the surface of the device, and the circuit is coils of hair-thin magnet wire glued into place on a card ring, so I’m amazed that such a fragile connection is normally able to survive the vigorous shaking!

Modded: Controller Pro U (Wiimote / Classic Controller hybrid)
IMG_0613.JPG

I was curious to try this controller (as modelled by the cat in my avatar) for games like Super Paper Mario and Metroid: Other M that use the Wiimote on its side, as that's normally not very comfortable. But the first one I got was actually a third-party Wii U Pro controller in the same shell (complete with non-functional IR window…) and it wasn't worth paying the return postage to get a few pounds back. The second one I got was the actual Wii one. I had heard bad things about getting accidental diagonal inputs on the d-pad, so I opened up the case and put several layers of tape under the pivot. I subsequently replaced the Wii U-style d-pad with one from an N64 (for which I had to enlarge the + hole in the case with a file), as the original edges were quite sharp. As an unexpected bonus, the d-pad is slightly tilted (up extends further from the case than down), which is more comfortable. I also transferred the SNES-coloured buttons from the WUPC.

Modded: Xbox One controller - Skull Ghost LED ABXY buttons
Custome-DIY-Replacement-Parts-Skull-Style-XBI-ABXY-LED-Light-Buttons-for-Xbox-one-Xboxone-5pcs.jpg_350x350.jpg

The kit has six white LEDs and replacements for the ABXY and Guide (which I didn't swap, leaving me two spare LEDs rather than one, so I wired them in parallel with the rumble motors, visible though a translucent shell) buttons. The buttons are in three pieces - clear shell, black support and translucent coloured skull, with enough space to hold the LED inside the skull. As I got the controller for use with Nintendo consoles (using a Brook converter), I swapped the skulls to the arrangement of colours on the EU/JP SNES. Because the buttons have space for the LEDs inside and the support is at the level of the original button underside, I didn't have to drill out and re-fill the buttons with hot glue, as others have done (also negating the need to judge how far to fill not to affect button travel).

There were no instructions or resistors included, so I experimented a bit and I reduced the 3.5V supply from TP7 to 2.6V using 4kOhm resistance per LED (2x 2k2 (red red red =22 x 100; gold = ±5%) in series with the individual ones that light up when the controller rumbles; several-resistors-in-parallel in series with the four parallel ABXY LEDs). The LEDs are visible but not terribly bright at this voltage, which is fine by me. I calculate the current as 0.2mA, which is ridiculously low… I used 30 AWG multi-strand wire to connect the LEDs and resistors to the appropriate supply points. I cut some of the carbon pads' rubber support away to make room for the wires.

I also made my life harder by fitting chips to turn off each LED when its button is pressed and making the others slightly brighter. You can see my wiring at at http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44629.msg335395.html#msg335395

It was really fiddly and I can't really recommend lighting the ABXY buttons. The interchangeable skulls were good for 'correcting' the buttons to Nintendo layout, and the rumble LEDs are a nice feature.

Modded: Octagonal gate on Xbox and Nyko nunchuk analogs
IMG_4637.JPG

I filed notches in the accent rings on my controller (relatively neat) and nunchuk (too ashamed to show) to give me feedback on the main directions similar to GameCube analog gates. I reckon you could cut a regular octagon reaching right out to the edges of the upper surface, but it actually feels OK with just the notches as in the photo. I can feel where the eight points are, but only snap to them if I'm aiming close to them and I push the stick right to the edge.

If you repaired something it would be interesting to know how it broke and what you did to fix it.
And if you modded something it would be nice to know how it was done and what your final thoughts are.
 
Last edited by emcintosh,

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I fixed up a Wii remote that wasn't working due to battery corrosion; my favorite parts were pouring vinegar over the acid to dissolve it since it made a really cool reaction and also I generally enjoyed cleaning all the dirt and grime inside the remote, very satisfying!
 
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Sicklyboy

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upload_2020-8-23_0-42-8.png

upload_2020-8-23_0-42-26.png

Bought a new-old stock Lenovo T430 last month. Upgraded to a 120gb SSD, 16GB of DDR3L RAM, and bought an LVDS to eDP converter so I could use a 1080p screen. Wasn't aware that there's such high current flowing through the backlight circuitry even when the power is off that it can blow the backlight fuse when you disconnect or connect a screen with power still available. So, I blew the backlight fuse (bridged it to fix), burned out the original eDP converter, and when the new one came, found out that I killed the display too, so I had to order a new one of THOSE as well.
 

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More to come :ph34r::ph34r::ph34r:

That said, DMG Gameboy, DMG RIPS V3 backlit IPS display conversion, also TBD is cleaning and reassembly obviously as well as a new power supply board, amp, and speaker.

I MAY spin up a separate thread specifically for game console restoration projects.
 

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