Hacking Sx Core and Sx Lite , test Units Received

Sixaxis

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Personally im a Kingbo Flux guy - After years of reballing Kingbo is 100% the best flux for these types of jobs. Amtech flux was close with 2nd.

I love Hakko Solder guns - Currently using FX-951
Thanks for the Recs!

And damn are those some expensive solder kits at the top. Hope their durability is 5 years guaranteed minimum at that pricing.
 

matias3ds

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i don't think the silver wire glue will have any resistence problems, you might have it with the carbon based ones though

so how would you go about removing the wire glue though?

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maybe you should give the silver based wire glue a go then ?
did you manage to clean it up real good, did you use solder braid, how did you get the excess solder off , was it hard?
After i desolder it the flex got broken , so i cant use them again .
 
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The8Darkness

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Did anyone with actual soldering skills or electrical knowledge actually fucking get one of these? I didn't even bother asking because I figured it was only for "top streamers" to circle-jerk more views, but someone must have gotten some ffs?

If I ever get my hands on a lite or core I'll post full microscoped installation images etc. Being in Canada all the distributors were based in the US for me and they all took a shit so hopefully there's a Chinese order alternative.
I mean there are some people who at least have some knowledge, but its kind of a joke when people get it who are like "well I soldered once in my life and I have this 5$ walmart iron and some leftover solder"
(Just kind of mad when you know you would have been way more qualified but get the "were sure youre very qualified but not looking for you" reply)

i don't think the silver wire glue will have any resistence problems, you might have it with the carbon based ones though

so how would you go about removing the wire glue though?
The ones I saw were probably carbon based, where you get like a whole box for 10 bucks. The silver ones are like 10 bucks for a syringe with a few drops in it. And - personally I didnt have any experience with it - but as far as I have seen from others using it, simply applying it, testing if it works and removing it before it dries is quite easy. Like for some it came of in one blob like playdooh.
 

Astur_torque

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I mean there are some people who at least have some knowledge, but its kind of a joke when people get it who are like "well I soldered once in my life and I have this 5$ walmart iron and some leftover solder"
(Just kind of mad when you know you would have been way more qualified but get the "were sure youre very qualified but not looking for you" reply)


The ones I saw were probably carbon based, where you get like a whole box for 10 bucks. The silver ones are like 10 bucks for a syringe with a few drops in it. And - personally I didnt have any experience with it - but as far as I have seen from others using it, simply applying it, testing if it works and removing it before it dries is quite easy. Like for some it came of in one blob like playdooh.

I think it's evident this kind of soldering is not suitable for everybody
 
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MrSandstorm

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can smb recommend me right tools to install this chip?

Good flux and soldering iron (I recommend JBC brand, there are high quality ones) and good tin

Since you're asking for recommendations, I assume you don't currently own any soldering tools. Astur's answer is pretty much spot on, though I definitely wouldn't recommend JBC for a first soldering station. They are among the best on the market, but are also insanely expensive, as in twice the price of most competitors in the same quality class.

If you don't intend to solder professionally, I'd recommend the TS100. It has the heating element integrated to the tips (same as JBC), is well built, known to be good (you can find lots of reviews on YouTube) and most importantly IMHO: reasonably priced. You can find it on aliexpress:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32860309312.html

For this kind of work, I'd probably use that TS-I tip. Regarding solder, ask around local electronic components shops about which brands available locally are well-regarded, and get some thin solder from one of them (around 0.5mm or thinner is good in this case). Same for flux, see what brands local technicians prefer.

Most importantly, get a bunch of scrap boards that you can practice on, and of course, if you're not feeling comfortable, don't waste money on tools so you can potentially damage your Switch. Look for an experienced professional to install the chip for you.
 
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Maq47

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I asked this earlier, but I'm reposting for visibility (plus, I don't want to go back through the last 4-6 pages to quote my post):

Any installers in the Indianapolis, IN, USA area? I don't want to pay for shipping, so I'm looking locally.
 

airrich

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I asked this earlier, but I'm reposting for visibility (plus, I don't want to go back through the last 4-6 pages to quote my post):

Any installers in the Indianapolis, IN, USA area? I don't want to pay for shipping, so I'm looking locally.

You are probably better off looking on a local site like Craigslist. I only know if 2 people offering services here.
 

masbass

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Also, getting a cheap USB microscope ( like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000X-8-LE...scope-Endoscope-Camera-Magnifier/113523681678 ) is great help if you'll do small parts soldering. There's quite a lot to choose from and start cheap enough, look around for specs as most look the same but have various insides with better or worse features. Hook it up to a PC and use the monitor for display. Picture quality might not be the greatest but it sure beats struggling with magnifying glasses.
 

DoomVirus

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nice info by Mike Heskin @hexkyz

Scripts for the leaked SXOS v3.0.0 (SHA-256 of 54ce0f58cac9643559991b0b86252424c1bbc59c5c77496110d999814a4a7d52)

As for a changelog, this version's purpose is to support Mariko and the modchip ecosystem, so there are no new features.
Aside from removing all KIPs except for Loader, most of the changes are DRM related.
Bootloader has new code to interact with and update the modchip.
Patchers now include full copies of each Mariko package1 encrypted with a T210B01/T214 specific key.
All applications have been updated and rebuilt to match current AMS and libnx.
On the very first boot the bootloader will attempt to update the modchip from version 1.0 to 1.1. Update firmware is stored encrypted inside the bootloader and is likely meant to patch a handful of vulnerabilities and broken code already identified.
The modchip itself flashes a custom BCT and bootloader to the boot0 partition on the eMMC. These are stored encrypted with the Mariko BEK (Boot Encryption Key) and signed with TX's own key. Once the glitch succeeds, TX's bootloader will run instead of Nintendo's.
The initial stages focus mostly on DRM and clear out all keyslots (except keyslot number 6) that were filled by the bootrom as a way to block any other third party from obtaining Mariko keys using the modchip. This is, however, ineffective.
...
It's not a new exploit per se, in fact it's the exact same technique used to achieve code execution on the original units: glitch the PKC hash check.
This was made more difficult with Mariko but the modchip is capable of self-adapting the timings.
 

Astur_torque

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Also, getting a cheap USB microscope ( like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000X-8-LE...scope-Endoscope-Camera-Magnifier/113523681678 ) is great help if you'll do small parts soldering. There's quite a lot to choose from and start cheap enough, look around for specs as most look the same but have various insides with better or worse features. Hook it up to a PC and use the monitor for display. Picture quality might not be the greatest but it sure beats struggling with magnifying glasses.

I really don't think this microscope is actually x1000
 

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