Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

vulp_vibes · Dec 9, 2019

finished an install yesterday for @remanifest

went with the QFN this time and routed the wires better (all points are on the rear of the board now). very pleased with this one

JaRocker · Dec 9, 2019

pyorin said:
finished an install yesterday for @remanifest went with the QFN this time and routed the wires better (all points are on the rear of the board now). very pleased with this one

wow nice

Toby4213 · Dec 9, 2019

@pyorin wow looks very clean. I can't really find a good dev board, so I think I would also get a single atsamd21. This takes up the least amount of space. Also I love the enameled copper wire, imho thats the only option when it comes to wiring, be it modding a console or prototyping a pcb...
Also, does the pin description for the samd21 in the original post correspond to the adafruit trinket m0? And what should be connected to the D+ and D- pins? Are those for usb?

pure3d2 · Dec 10, 2019

@pyorin

Could you share the other soldering points that you used for this install? I can see where you soldered the 3V, USB data+/- and ground, but can't quite tell where the other 2 wires (RCM strap and vol+) are going.

vulp_vibes · Dec 10, 2019

Toby4213 said:
Also, does the pin description for the samd21 in the original post correspond to the adafruit trinket m0? And what should be connected to the D+ and D- pins? Are those for usb?

yes, the wiring diagram for the trinket is the correct one for the bare chip install, and D+/D- are the data lines for usb.

pure3d2 said:
Could you share the other soldering points that you used for this install? I can see where you soldered the 3V, USB data+/- and ground, but can't quite tell where the other 2 wires (RCM strap and vol+) are going.

sure

I already made a diagram so I could remember where all the points were, though my pictured install is just a simple Fusee-UF2 one and doesn't use the vol+ line. also, I know there are an awful lot of ground points to choose from, so I have only highlighted the ones on test pads that are most convenient to the location of the chip

pure3d2 · Dec 10, 2019

@pyorin
Thank you so much! I can't quote+reply because I don't have enough posts yet even though my account is 3 years old lol!

Yinchz · Dec 10, 2019

Hi everyone, I have a question.
everything is normal.
But I now want to change the startup method so that it does not require AUTORM.
But I found that I grounded the JOYCON line.
It is usually disconnected from the correct handle during the game.
After a few seconds, the connection will return to normal.
If in the game, this will be fatal because the correct gamepad is disconnected and you will not be able to move. Then it returned to normal after a while.
How to solve this problem?
Below is my wiring diagram.

Skuffe · Dec 10, 2019

pure3d2 said:
Did you disconnect the battery before you started soldering?

Yeah battery was disconnected during the install. Inspecting the screen further, i can see that when using a strong light against it, it actually does display, but the touchscreen/digitizer is not working and without the light against it, nothing shows.

pure3d2 · Dec 11, 2019

Skuffe said:
Yeah battery was disconnected during the install. Inspecting the screen further, i can see that when using a strong light against it, it actually does display, but the touchscreen/digitizer is not working and without the light against it, nothing shows.

Maybe you can try re-seating the backlight ribbon cable. If that doesn't work, then perhaps you blew either a fuse or some other component which controls the backlight. For the digitizer, make sure that the cable is connected properly in the game card reader board.

Toby4213 · Dec 11, 2019

@pyorin awesome thank you

iamfoesho · Dec 11, 2019

pyorin said:
finished an install yesterday for @remanifest went with the QFN this time and routed the wires better (all points are on the rear of the board now). very pleased with this one

What kind of wire is that?

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edwardsalazar97 said:
ok, I thought the damage was in the joycon not in the switch strap, when mentioning mod joycon I assumed that was

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if you did not tear all the way or the track you can with a cutter remove some of the coating so that the copper is seen and join the two tracks View attachment 181323

Using a fiberglass pencil would be a better option to expose the traces to rejoin them.

vulp_vibes · Dec 11, 2019

iamfoesho said:
What kind of wire is that?

magnet wire, 32awg I believe

remanifest · Dec 12, 2019

Yesterday, I received the internally modded Switch back from @pyorin. I could not be happier with the job he did. From the outside, it's impossible to tell that the console was ever touched (flawless - no gaps, no marks on the case at all). On the inside is where the magic lives, and that's exactly how I wanted it to be.

Operating the console from my side is really simple; the hardest part was just figuring out where to place one of the files on the SD card (not that difficult. hint: if you're using Hekate, take its .bin, rename it to payload.bin, and stick it on the root of the SD card). Once I had that going, I was able to start doing some interesting things with my Switch.

I'm a stranger on a forum who just asked if someone would be willing to help me out to do something outside of my skillset, and @pyorin stepped up and performed the job in a manner that was befitting his own device, with great consideration for my time and investment.

If you're in the United States, and aren't comfortable performing this mod yourself, @pyorin is a man of honesty, integrity, high skill, speed, and a gentleman to boot. If I ever need work like this in the future, I won't think about who to ask for help, and that gives me peace of mind. Thank you very much, sir.

Fragmon · Dec 15, 2019

Hello, can i use kynar wire (0.4mm or 0.5mm?)

Boydy86 · Dec 17, 2019

pyorin said:
finished an install yesterday for @remanifest went with the QFN this time and routed the wires better (all points are on the rear of the board now). very pleased with this one

Where did you get that wire?! I have been googling for insulated coil wire, but not sure on gauges etc. Also, I don't know how to correctly identify wire that will strip its insulation by simply touching with iron... Very impressive job you've done there.

Matius · Dec 18, 2019

Boydy86 said:
Where did you get that wire?! I have been googling for insulated coil wire, but not sure on gauges etc. Also, I don't know how to correctly identify wire that will strip its insulation by simply touching with iron... Very impressive job you've done there.

That's just magnet wire and you can use any AWG from 30+ really

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Fragmon said:
Hello, can i use kynar wire (0.4mm or 0.5mm?)

You can, is thin enough so yeah

switchn00b · Dec 18, 2019

Hello,
Apologies in advance if these questions have been asked before and I have missed an answer to them:
1. What exactly does the USB disconnect strap accomplish?
2. In few posts that I read, people talk about method 1,2, or 3 for hacking the switch. As there's only one visible now, does that mean that this is the best way to hack (aka no battery leaks)? Is this also based on method 2 or is this method 2?
Thanks

bevis · Dec 19, 2019

cormaltes said:
Hello, I damaged the resistance or must weld the CFW permanent. I would like to know the reference to replace it. Thx

Is that for the Vol+ strap? Because I fucked up that resister too and my Vol+ stopped working. I ended up just bridging the pads with my strap wire and everything worked out fine.

Could someone clarify something that might be a really dumb question for me? It says that if you don't do the Vol+ strap then you're limited to dual boot mode only. All I want is to be able to boot my switch normally with a press of the power button. And boot into hecate which then autobots my CFW emmunand by pressing Vol+ and power. Does that mean that I only want dual boot and that installing the Vol+ strap is unessecary for me?

Matius · Dec 19, 2019

bevis said:
Is that for the Vol+ strap? Because I fucked up that resister too and my Vol+ stopped working. I ended up just bridging the pads with my strap wire and everything worked out fine.

Could someone clarify something that might be a really dumb question for me? It says that if you don't do the Vol+ strap then you're limited to dual boot mode only. All I want is to be able to boot my switch normally with a press of the power button. And boot into hecate which then autobots my CFW emmunand by pressing Vol+ and power. Does that mean that I only want dual boot and that installing the Vol+ strap is unessecary for me?

That's correct. No need for that

Boydy86 · Dec 19, 2019

Matius said:
That's just magnet wire and you can use any AWG from 30+ really

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You can, is thin enough so yeah

Perfect! I think I'll give this stuff a try:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0357918/

Thank you.

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