Hacking USB Loader Gx crashing to wii menu?

XFlak · Nov 6, 2019

Also, you stated how you put the images o to your hard drive (using wii backup manager) but you never shared how you got these images in the first place?

Where they converted using other managers previously?

Do you have an original wii disc you can rerip from scratch and test?

YannikMarschewski · Nov 6, 2019

Hey, I've tested my game with "hashcheck", it says completely different CRC and MD5 values. My values are:

New Super Mario Bros Wii NTSC [[Scrubbed & Patched]].iso
CRC-32: 3cfcc165
SHA-1: 6bd23cd4fbd7b7d611721c699fc5d09c946fe861
SHA-256: ae01629f05fa7e59db4fd363e2b64ebfea826e9c7825bb1720fb687e26692f24
SHA-512: 012e83392f85460334b01de47ad4492e4a237aebb67366c972a0869c4e41c5bb39608422a04a3065bf3d89d9ba6c1b5a3e3f44ec92025bd56c56d07d08462e94

Has somebody a website, where I can download Wii Games, which will work in any case?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Now I've tried to import my own Super Mario Bros disc, but if I open the game without a CD, it will crash the USB Loader also...

XFlak · Nov 6, 2019

YannikMarschewski said:
Now I've tried to import my own Super Mario Bros disc, but if i will open the game without CD, it will crash also...

do you mean when you start a freshly ripped game backup it crashes?

If so, what app did u use to rip it (try clean rip if other apps have given you problems), and what loader did you try to launch it (try usb loader gx and/or cfg USB loader)?

No one in this forum is going to tell you how or where to pirate games. They're dirt cheap, just buy a bunch and rip them.

Edit: can you confirm you're loading a wbfs file (I.e file ends in .wbfs and not .iso). Shouldn't make a difference really as long as the image is good and the file fits on your hard drive.

I noticed your iso is scrubbed and patched according to the filename, that may explain why the hash is different than the database. Just because it's different doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem with it, but I would avoid tinkering with your images too much to avoid corrupting them

YannikMarschewski · Nov 6, 2019

XFlak said:
do you mean when you start a freshly ripped game backup it crashes?

If so, what app did u use to rip it (try clean rip if other apps have given you problems), and what loader did you try to launch it (try usb loader gx and/or cfg USB loader)?

No one in this forum is going to tell you how or where to pirate games. They're dirt cheap, just buy a bunch and rip them.

Edit: can you confirm you're loading a wbfs file (I.e file ends in .wbfs and not .iso). Shouldn't make a difference really as long as the image is good and the file fits on your hard drive.

I noticed your iso is scrubbed and patched according to the filename, that may explain why the hash is different than the database. Just because it's different doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem with it, but I would avoid tinkering with your images too much to avoid corrupting them

I've used USB Loader CX to copy the game. I've inserted the disc and I've installed it with the panel, which opened, USB Loader CFG is not even on my SD Card and yes, the file is ending with .wbfs.

XFlak · Nov 6, 2019

And you're claiming the backup works only when the original is inserted in the wii? That's weird, might want to report that in the USB loader gx thread so the dev's can investigate.

In the meantime, get clean rip and try using that to rip, also get cfg USB loader (from Modmii's download page 2) and try using that to rip and/or load

YannikMarschewski · Nov 10, 2019

Tried it with a reinstallation of my complete Wii, I've downloaded MODMII also and used it, my USB Loader GX was too old, so I downloaded the new one from the internet, but nothing changed, I can't play my game backups, also with my disc, there is the homescreen of the game, but if I open it, it will crash. It's really confusing, I can make a video of my complete installation, so you can analyze it and hopefully find my fault. Should I do it?

rs1n · Nov 15, 2019

There are a few things that are odd with your setup. But I will get to that in a bit. The very first thing you need to do before anything else is to make sure that your hard drive is healthy. If you have a drive that is starting to go bad (and it can happen even for relatively new drives), then no amount of software tinkering will ever fix your issues. So, first let's make sure hardware is not an issue.

1. Get HDDScan (it's free; google it) and run it. Check the S.M.A.R.T. attributes of your drive. In particular, pay attention to any yellow warning icons shown on the report. Also, any attribute that has "reallocation" in its name should be checked; make sure that you have no reallocation sectors; and all raw values shown (even if you see nothing but green icons) are less than the threshold value. Generally speaking, all drives have a number of extra sectors that can be used to work in place of bad ones. That said, any reallocation sector count that is non-zero might be an indicator that your drive is starting to have issues.

2. If HDDScan basically reports a healthy drive (i.e. no bad sectors, no warning icons, etc.) then the next step is to make sure that your drive is sufficiently powered and plugged into the correct slot (always use the USB port closest to the edge of the console). Generally speaking, most "thin" drives (2.5inch or sometimes referred to as "laptop" drives) operate at under 500mA (max USB 2.0 power). However, not all of them do. If that is the case (i.e. you can check the datasheet of the drive to see that they are under the 500mA current draw), then these drives can be sufficiently powered by a single USB cable. However, there are 2.5inch drives that actually exceed the 500mA limit, especially those which were not manufactured as an actual external drive (i.e. 2.5inch USB HDDs that come with their own enclosures are likely fine; but if you got your own 2.5inch drive and a separate USB enclosure, then who knows...). Thicker 3.5inch drives must always have external power (AC adapter) because the use both 5V and 12V, whereas USB ports only provide 5V. They also draw much more current than their 2.5inch counterparts. Anyone with a 2.5inch USB HDD and is unsure about their power draw can simply buy a USB Y-cable.

3. Now, assuming a healthy hard drive that is getting sufficient power, the next thing to check is whether the USB by itself is configured properly. This means you should remove the SD card completely. The bare minimum, with respect to soft-modding, that your Wii needs is: a) the Homebrew Channel installed, b) Bootmii installed in boot2 and/or cIOS with the NAND backed up, c) cIOS 249 (base 56, d2x v10 beta52) and cIOS 250 (base 57, d2x v10 beta52). You have way too many unnecessary cIOS's and the ones you do have are reversed (249/250 using 57/56 base, respectively) Priiloader is nice, and definitely recommended if you do not have boot2 options for Bootmii. But this is all that is needed to get a USB loader app to run (I personally use USB Loader GX). With those requirements in place, format your HDD drive using FAT32 (not exFAT). You can always go back and modify this setup once you get your loader running. DO NOT USE WBFS MANAGER! (WBFS drive format is out of style these days, and it is better to use .wbfs files as opposed to formatting a drive to WBFS format). In fact, for diagnosing issues, you should consider doing everything manually.

i) After formatting your drive, create a folder named: apps

ii) Extract USB Loader GX so that it resides inside this apps folder. You need to take extra care here as most zip files for apps include the directory structure for the apps. The directory structure should be (after extraction):
HDD -> apps -> usbloadergx -> (files pertaining to USB Loader GX)

iii) Create another folder (in the root of the hard drive) named: wbfs

iv) Inside this folder, copy a single game (preferably with the .wbfs extension). As an example,

/wbfs/New Super Mario Bros Wii [SMNE01].wbfs

Notice the game title followed by [game ID] in the file name.

v) Configure USB Loader GX to load this game into its menu, and work on getting just this first game to work (doesn't have to be Super Mario Bros Wii -- I'm just using this as an example)

Avoid using any game/backup manager; this is one less point of failure or cause of problems. As you can see, there are only a few things that could be the cause of our issues at this point: cIOS installation, USB Loader GX (version, and folder locations), the game file (in this case New Super Mario Bros Wii [SMNE01].wbfs), or how our drive was formatted. (This is under the assumption that the drive is healthy, and getting sufficient power, while plugged into the outer USB port.)

rs1n · Nov 15, 2019

jeannotte said:
Hello,

your cios are old, you have to reinstall them correctly:

either like this ==>

249 base 57 version 8 final
250 base 56 version 8 final
251 base 58 final version 8

OR :
249 base 57 version 10 beta 52
250 base 56 version 10 beta52
251 base 58 version 10beta 52
With this guide ==>https://wii.guide/cios

Or with Modmii from XFlak ==>https://gbatemp.net/threads/modmii-for-windows-official-support-topic.207126/

usb loader gx ==> https://sourceforge.net/projects/usbloadergx/

The external hard drive must be in fat 32.

Then repost a new syscheck report, for control

That (marked in red) is not what the guide at https://wii.guide/cios says. You have reversed the bases 56 and 57. While this is not a major issue in the grand scheme of things, it does make it confusing to newcomers because a lot of guides refer to cIOS 249 specifically and anyone reading your post would actually have to use cIOS 250! Again, not a big deal, but could be for someone completely new to hacking their Wii.

EDIT: Also, v10 beta52 is what is recommended these days for compatibility reasons.

XFlak · Nov 15, 2019

D2x V10 beta 52 is essentially the same as v8 final

Base 57 has greater compatibility than base 56. At one point it was thought that base 56 was faster, so everyone (myself included) installed base 56 to slot 249 (the most commonly use slot for homebrew). More recently its come to light that in fact there's no real speed improvement to base 56 over base 57, as a result the recommendation has evolved such that base 57 should be installed to slot 249 and base 56 to slot 250. Ultimately it's a pretty minor point, but it would save folks from manually switching to a different CIOS for a handful of games that require base 57 (mostly guitar hero games and games with peripherals)

So long story short, the optimal configuration is d2x v8 final base 57 installed to slot 249, and base 56 to slot 250 (although you shouldn't really need anything other than base 57 in slot 249)

V8 final is the same as v10 beta 52

And if you have slots 249 and 250 reversed it's not a big deal, but if anything wii.guide has a slightly inferior recommended set up versus was what suggested above (which also happens to be aligned with ModMii's setup)

YannikMarschewski · Nov 15, 2019

rs1n said:
There are a few things that are odd with your setup. But I will get to that in a bit. The very first thing you need to do before anything else is to make sure that your hard drive is healthy. If you have a drive that is starting to go bad (and it can happen even for relatively new drives), then no amount of software tinkering will ever fix your issues. So, first let's make sure hardware is not an issue.

1. Get HDDScan (it's free; google it) and run it. Check the S.M.A.R.T. attributes of your drive. In particular, pay attention to any yellow warning icons shown on the report. Also, any attribute that has "reallocation" in its name should be checked; make sure that you have no reallocation sectors; and all raw values shown (even if you see nothing but green icons) are less than the threshold value. Generally speaking, all drives have a number of extra sectors that can be used to work in place of bad ones. That said, any reallocation sector count that is non-zero might be an indicator that your drive is starting to have issues.

2. If HDDScan basically reports a healthy drive (i.e. no bad sectors, no warning icons, etc.) then the next step is to make sure that your drive is sufficiently powered and plugged into the correct slot (always use the USB port closest to the edge of the console). Generally speaking, most "thin" drives (2.5inch or sometimes referred to as "laptop" drives) operate at under 500mA (max USB 2.0 power). However, not all of them do. If that is the case (i.e. you can check the datasheet of the drive to see that they are under the 500mA current draw), then these drives can be sufficiently powered by a single USB cable. However, there are 2.5inch drives that actually exceed the 500mA limit, especially those which were not manufactured as an actual external drive (i.e. 2.5inch USB HDDs that come with their own enclosures are likely fine; but if you got your own 2.5inch drive and a separate USB enclosure, then who knows...). Thicker 3.5inch drives must always have external power (AC adapter) because the use both 5V and 12V, whereas USB ports only provide 5V. They also draw much more current than their 2.5inch counterparts. Anyone with a 2.5inch USB HDD and is unsure about their power draw can simply buy a USB Y-cable.

3. Now, assuming a healthy hard drive that is getting sufficient power, the next thing to check is whether the USB by itself is configured properly. This means you should remove the SD card completely. The bare minimum, with respect to soft-modding, that your Wii needs is: a) the Homebrew Channel installed, b) Bootmii installed in boot2 and/or cIOS with the NAND backed up, c) cIOS 249 (base 56, d2x v10 beta52) and cIOS 250 (base 57, d2x v10 beta52). You have way too many unnecessary cIOS's and the ones you do have are reversed (249/250 using 57/56 base, respectively) Priiloader is nice, and definitely recommended if you do not have boot2 options for Bootmii. But this is all that is needed to get a USB loader app to run (I personally use USB Loader GX). With those requirements in place, format your HDD drive using FAT32 (not exFAT). You can always go back and modify this setup once you get your loader running. DO NOT USE WBFS MANAGER! (WBFS drive format is out of style these days, and it is better to use .wbfs files as opposed to formatting a drive to WBFS format). In fact, for diagnosing issues, you should consider doing everything manually.

i) After formatting your drive, create a folder named: apps

ii) Extract USB Loader GX so that it resides inside this apps folder. You need to take extra care here as most zip files for apps include the directory structure for the apps. The directory structure should be (after extraction):
HDD -> apps -> usbloadergx -> (files pertaining to USB Loader GX)

iii) Create another folder (in the root of the hard drive) named: wbfs

iv) Inside this folder, copy a single game (preferably with the .wbfs extension). As an example,

/wbfs/New Super Mario Bros Wii [SMNE01].wbfs

Notice the game title followed by [game ID] in the file name.

v) Configure USB Loader GX to load this game into its menu, and work on getting just this first game to work (doesn't have to be Super Mario Bros Wii -- I'm just using this as an example)

Avoid using any game/backup manager; this is one less point of failure or cause of problems. As you can see, there are only a few things that could be the cause of our issues at this point: cIOS installation, USB Loader GX (version, and folder locations), the game file (in this case New Super Mario Bros Wii [SMNE01].wbfs), or how our drive was formatted. (This is under the assumption that the drive is healthy, and getting sufficient power, while plugged into the outer USB port.)

Tried everything of your steps, but it doesn't work. This is my HDD report:

WDC WD10EZEX-75WN4A0-WD-WCC6Y6ZC4J8T-SMART.mht
HDDScan S.M.A.R.T. Report
State:
Model: WDC WD10EZEX-75WN4A0
Firmware: 02.01A02
Serial: WD-WCC6Y6ZC4J8T
LBA: 1953525168 (1000 GB)

Report By: HDDSCAN v4.1
Report Date: 15.11.2019 13:34:15

Num Attribute Name Value Worst Raw(hex) Threshold

001Raw Read Error Rate 2002000000000000-0000051

003Spin Up Time 1741690000000000-08F3021

004Start/Stop Count 0990990000000000-0456000

005Reallocation Sector Count 2002000000000000-0000140

007Seek Error Rate 2002000000000000-0000000

009Power-On Hours Count 0960960000000000-0C25000

010Spin Retry Count 1001000000000000-0000000

011Recalibration Retries 1001000000000000-0000000

012Device Power Cycle Count 1001000000000000-036E000

192Emergency Retract Count 2002000000000000-0034000

193Load/unload Cycle Count 1831830000000000-CBF4000

194HDA Temperature 11909124 C 000

196Reallocation Event Count 2002000000000000-0000000

197Current Pending Errors Count 2002000000000000-0000000

198Uncorrectable Errors Count 2002000000000000-0000000

199UltraDMA CRC Errors 2002000000000000-0000000

200Multi Zone Error Rate2002000000000000-0000000

240Heads Flying Hours 0990990000000000-0300000

241Total Host Writes 2002000000018074-DEC9000

242Total Host Reads 2002000000034368-6D36000

I think the best would be, if someone can give me a complete installation guide for my wii, I don't know, what is wrong with my installation and I didn't make it allright, not even with the ModMii installer.

YannikMarschewski · Nov 15, 2019

Okay guys, I've installed another USB Loader CX with the Cios 249 on my HDD and now it works, thanks for your help!

rs1n · Nov 15, 2019

XFlak said:
D2x V10 beta 52 is essentially the same as v8 final

V8 final is the same as v10 beta 52

Is this completely accurate? Besides the obvious version number difference, I know that v10 has vWii stuff that is irrelevant for the original Wii. But v10 has hdd fixes from v9 that are not in v8 (to my knowledge). Moreover, USB Loader GX has features that will only work with v9+ (e.g. multiple hard drive support). There may have been a few other USB fixes that I have forgotten about. Or did all these fixes/features get backported to v8 final?

Regarding base 56 vs 57 -- I was under the impression that one reason Nintendo never simply updated existing IOS (except for security patches) but instead added new ones was to keep backward compatibility. Wouldn't that by itself necessitate the need for both 56 and 57? Or is it now the case that cIOS with base 57 handles all games and peripherals in the Wii's library?

EDIT: Just wanted to add that I'm not here to nitpick or anything since intent is often not clearly conveyed over the internet; I'm asking to learn.

XFlak · Nov 15, 2019

Base 57 should be able to launch all the same games base 56 can and more. That being said, it's possible a particular drive out there is compatible with base 56 and not base 57, I've never seen it, but you never know. This is (currently) mainly why we install a few different cios's, so if something doesn't work you can test a different one without having to go back to run an installer or wad manager

V8 final and v10 beta 52 is essentially the same when it comes to the wii (not sure about vwii), I definitely read that somewhere and locked it into my memory. V10 beta 53 is a different story, it has support for both ports and decreased compatibility

Alexander1970 · Nov 15, 2019

cIOS rev17 : base37 only, WBFS only. (no FAT32 or NTFS support). This revision was used a lot and was one of the latest stable from waninkoko.
cIOS rev18 : add support for more bases. Add FAT32 & NTFS support.
cIOS rev19 : lot of bugs, wiimote unsync bug
cIOS rev20 : lot of bugs
cIOS rev 21 : attempt at fixing the bugs, waninkoko latest released cIOS.
cIOS rev 21 d2x : mod of rev21, continuation of Waninkoko work by Davebaol. First mod of rev21, branch is nicknamed "d2x"
cIOS rev 21 d2x v2
cIOS rev 21 d2x v3
cIOS rev 21 d2x v4 <-- fixed lot of bugs, add advantced mode (4096bytes/sector) HDD support
cIOS rev 21 d2x v5
cIOS rev 21 d2x v6
cIOS rev 21 d2x v7 <-- add support for "no IOS reload" to make games with Wiimote+ working, like "skyward sword".
cIOS rev 21 d2x v8 final <- final stable version
cIOS rev 21 d2x v9beta : never released. beta (trying to add port1 support and plug&play feature). unstable, not working with emuNAND and some games. the developer didn't complete its work in time, and WiiU was released and vWii was in need of cIOS update. he couldn't release v9 as "next version" because it was unstable and buggy, so he decided to release v8 for vWii instead. but decided to increment the number (instead of releasing v8 and v9, he released v10 and v10-alternative)

cIOS rev 21 d2x v10 (d2x revision r52) <--- it's actually v8 but released for vWii. (it's useless for Wii, but works the same as v8)
cIOS rev 21 d2x v10-alternative (d2x revision r53) <-- it's actually v9, but released for vWii, with all its bug and issues. the name is "alternative", because it's beta and therfore couldn't be released as "v11" or it would mean it's an update and bugfix of v10, which is not.

Source: his Masters Voice @Cyan

rs1n · Nov 15, 2019

Thank you both XFlak and alexander1970 for the info; very informative.

Hacking USB Loader Gx crashing to wii menu?

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