Hardware Black Screen after replace LCD

nuage83 · Jun 23, 2019

Hello everyone,

Yesterday I wanted to change the lcd screen of my switch because it display horizontal color lines. By dismounting the console, I zapped to remove the battery connector, before removing the LCD. I go up the console with a new screen, and when I turn on the console, the screen turns on for 2 seconds and then no display. On the dock the console is recognized, the joysticks work in bluetooth but not when they are connected to the console.

If anyone can give me a track, because there I do not see where the trouble comes from.

Thank you

Akira · Jun 23, 2019

I have a somewhat similar issue but mine is after replacing the left joycon rail. Same issue as yours, the joycon doesnt get detected if it dock it in the switch. It’s charging but switch detects it like it is not there, only bluetooh works.

lpoolm · Jun 23, 2019

Not had this issue but when fixing 3ds in the past a lot of issues have come from poorly fitted ribbon cables, I would check all them. Maybe worth just connecting screen cables first then if that works add the rest one by one?

Agilato · Jun 30, 2019

Main screen connector goes bad very easy, make sure you don't have bent pins over there....

hamak · Jul 12, 2019

Agilato said:
Main screen connector goes bad very easy, make sure you don't have bent pins over there....

Hi,
I got a switch which is not powering on, and in the dock, the dock is Lightning, but Nothing show up at screen.
I replaced all the parts except the screen and the battery. The screen connector was really hard to fit into the connector, and i'm pretty sure it's faulty.
Do you have any tips to change it or make it work again... ?

Agilato · Jul 12, 2019

hamak said:
Hi,
I got a switch which is not powering on, and in the dock, the dock is Lightning, but Nothing show up at screen.
I replaced all the parts except the screen and the battery. The screen connector was really hard to fit into the connector, and i'm pretty sure it's faulty.
Do you have any tips to change it or make it work again... ?

Does it worked before you started your repair?

If Yes than:
First you have to looks inside a connector, and make sure you don't have bent pins over there... if so you have to replace connector or you can try to fix bent with needle, but i should tell it's crazy hard to do. To replace connector i usually heat up the board from another side and it's coming out very easy, reflush pads with a leded solder and install new same way.

If no before replacing a connector i would:
Test fuse right after USB-C connector if it's ok, than voltages and chip conditions on the board... if they are shorted, there is 3 IC chips each of them like to go bad: BQ, MT and PI3, the fastest way to tell if they fried test nearby capacitors for short (caps might be faulty themself) if there is no shorts you have to test voltage on MT chip on pads 5 and 6 reading should be around 3-5v.

Akira · Jul 12, 2019

turns out the replacement rail i bought wasn't working. tried to swap the smallboard below the rail from the working one(but tight) to the one i recently bought and it works. Also, the black screen also happened to me. It turns out hat I haven't pushed the flex cable of the screen fully.

lpoolm · Jul 13, 2019

Agilato said:
Does it worked before you started your repair?

If Yes than:
First you have to looks inside a connector, and make sure you don't have bent pins over there... if so you have to replace connector or you can try to fix bent with needle, but i should tell it's crazy hard to do. To replace connector i usually heat up the board from another side and it's coming out very easy, reflush pads with a leded solder and install new same way.

If no before replacing a connector i would:
Test fuse right after USB-C connector if it's ok, than voltages and chip conditions on the board... if they are shorted, there is 3 IC chips each of them like to go bad: BQ, MT and PI3, the fastest way to tell if they fried test nearby capacitors for short (caps might be faulty themself) if there is no shorts you have to test voltage on MT chip on pads 5 and 6 reading should be around 3-5v.

Can you give more details on checking voltage around Mt chip? Which /where are pads 5/6?
Thanks

Agilato · Jul 15, 2019

lpoolm said:
Can you give more details on checking voltage around Mt chip? Which /where are pads 5/6?
Thanks

The pins are numbered anti-clockwise around the IC (chip) starting near the notch or dot. Principle is the same for all IC's sizes.

hamak · Jul 19, 2019

Agilato said:
Does it worked before you started your repair?

If Yes than:
First you have to looks inside a connector, and make sure you don't have bent pins over there... if so you have to replace connector or you can try to fix bent with needle, but i should tell it's crazy hard to do. To replace connector i usually heat up the board from another side and it's coming out very easy, reflush pads with a leded solder and install new same way.

If no before replacing a connector i would:
Test fuse right after USB-C connector if it's ok, than voltages and chip conditions on the board... if they are shorted, there is 3 IC chips each of them like to go bad: BQ, MT and PI3, the fastest way to tell if they fried test nearby capacitors for short (caps might be faulty themself) if there is no shorts you have to test voltage on MT chip on pads 5 and 6 reading should be around 3-5v.

Everything was working, (Motherboard, USB C and everything else was fine). That's why i guess it's a screen or battery problem (that's the only parts i didn't change from the working switch).
But if the screen was faulty, or pins bendt, switch should work docked right ?

71r3n · Jul 20, 2019

Propably fried something in ur switch since it turns on at first for 2 seconds.
EDIT:
I cant see any szenario where the switchs screen turns on for 2 seconds, if the cables are at fault .

Agilato · Jul 20, 2019

hamak said:
Everything was working, (Motherboard, USB C and everything else was fine). That's why i guess it's a screen or battery problem (that's the only parts i didn't change from the working switch).
But if the screen was faulty, or pins bendt, switch should work docked right ?

It is dependence which pin were bent, some times you can short power and data line and that's it... check board with magnifying glass, may be you bumped some elements on the mother board, and there is always a slight chance you might fried motherboard with static electricity or if you unplugged a screen first and then battery you might damage controller also... whats why we unplug battery first...

hamak · Jul 22, 2019

Thanks guys, here a video of the situation :

Hardware Black Screen after replace LCD

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