Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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Scettles

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I've been messing with some throwaway electronics for a week now... Almost brave enough to try this. What kind of flux/solder should I buy for this mod? Either some general specifics or hey buy this solder / flux would be great :) just wanna get the best. I have awg 38 magnet enameled copper wire... Is that fine? Also finally... I have a TS100 with a tiny ass tip... What temperature should I set it to.
 

xstre pwnsx

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@xstre pwnsx
I think you need a replacement mainboard or a broken one where you can desolder the chip.
You should look at Aliexpress.com for a replacement chip or buy a broken switch.
Hopefully there is no rule about replying to a very old post! Anyways, turns out my revision of the mainboard just doesn't have that component at all (good because I don't know how it would have magically flown off).
 

xstre pwnsx

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@mattytrog
Ugh let the troubleshooting begin
So what seems to happen is this
1) I plug in battery
2)Nothing happens, I hold power for five seconds then I hit the power button
backlight comes on and then it goes off
trinket m0 with mattytrogs UF2 stuff does this...
two blinking red and green lights
then holds on one red light
I try plugging it into to see if in rcm
not showing up
I cannot remember if I have autorcm on it or not, I cannot tell if the battery is charged or not....
Also I don't have a vol + or joycon strap wired on atm
Hmm I could try desoldering the trinket and see what it's behavior is...

Log of things that are knowingly wrong with this board (and possible botched repairs)....
1) vol + strap pad got ripped off I tinned a wire exposed a trace and put it down to bridge (this wire has continuitiy to the point)
2)Capacitor next to MT chip was knocked off I replaced this capacitor once (1st repair was likely flawed) went back and redid this two days ago capacitors checks out good with multimeter and I used the proper tools this time (hot air rework) and pulled the capacitor off a scrap board.... 1st time I did this no continuity on either side to ground or between itself *note switch did boot into horizon after my first time replacing that capacitor and formerly didn't.
Now it has continuity to ground on one end but not the other
Possible things damaged during 1st trinket install attempt...
1) resistor for vol+ alternate point.... if so solution could be to replace with one off my scrap board...
2) I could have been rough with any ribbon cable and damaged it??
Last time I had it booted into horizon: Left joycon did not work, and volume buttons seemed not work properly
But I have since been unable to boot into horizon
Last time I was booted into horizon was before I removed the vol + strap
and when I removed the vol + strap I had damaged the pad
Possible my trace repair is ass.... can provide pics....
I also have a trace pen now I can use instead of some random tiny tinned wire
Actually I did boot into horizon once after that trace repair


*** Current Behavior ***
Long story short I am stuck with the backlight turning on no image on screen and the backlight turning off...
 
Last edited by xstre pwnsx,

mattytrog

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@mattytrog
Ugh let the troubleshooting begin
So what seems to happen is this
1) I plug in battery
2)Nothing happens, I hold power for five seconds then I hit the power button
backlight comes on and then it goes off
trinket m0 with mattytrogs UF2 stuff does this...
two blinking red and green lights
then holds on one red light
I try plugging it into to see if in rcm
not showing up
I cannot remember if I have autorcm on it or not, I cannot tell if the battery is charged or not....
Also I don't have a vol + or joycon strap wired on atm
Hmm I could try desoldering the trinket and see what it's behavior is...

Log of things that are knowingly wrong with this board (and possible botched repairs)....
1) vol + strap pad got ripped off I tinned a wire exposed a trace and put it down to bridge (this wire has continuitiy to the point)
2)Capacitor next to MT chip was knocked off I replaced this capacitor once (1st repair was likely flawed) went back and redid this two days ago capacitors checks out good with multimeter and I used the proper tools this time (hot air rework) and pulled the capacitor off a scrap board.... 1st time I did this no continuity on either side to ground or between itself *note switch did boot into horizon after my first time replacing that capacitor and formerly didn't.
Now it has continuity to ground on one end but not the other
Possible things damaged during 1st trinket install attempt...
1) resistor for vol+ alternate point.... if so solution could be to replace with one off my scrap board...
2) I could have been rough with any ribbon cable and damaged it??
Last time I had it booted into horizon: Left joycon did not work, and volume buttons seemed not work properly
But I have since been unable to boot into horizon
Last time I was booted into horizon was before I removed the vol + strap
and when I removed the vol + strap I had damaged the pad
Possible my trace repair is ass.... can provide pics....
I also have a trace pen now I can use instead of some random tiny tinned wire
Actually I did boot into horizon once after that trace repair


*** Current Behavior ***
Long story short I am stuck with the backlight turning on no image on screen and the backlight turning off...
Get it sent in if you like.

The usual suspects are:

M92T36 area:
Damaged pin 5(4.7uF) smoothing capacitor
Damaged pin 6 smoothing capacitor (1uF or 2.2uF)
- Both 10v parts(will never see this voltage so could get away with 6.3v, but we like a nice margin

150R resistor going to GPIO for vol+ strap

These can be a pain if your soldering iron is too hot, too cold, tip too big, neighbour farts in your general direction...

The GND. People insist on soldering directly to the groundplane. You need a cooking hot iron for this and I don`t recommend it.

Solder to the GND next to the battery connector... Top most pad. Can`t miss it.


If struggling, you can send it to me. But our HM revenue and customs are arseholes... One poor bugger got billed £80 last week in "import duty". Even though the Switch is only here for a repair...
 

xstre pwnsx

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mattytrog

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@mattytrog
will this component be good for replacing the component circled in blue on this picture? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/603-AF0201JR-07150RL

Also is this good for a pin 5 cap replacement? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/603-CC0402MPX55BB475

Also in the picture I drew in the area I scraped traces and bridge a wire to, are you telling me that I should connect the exposed trace to the pad above the battery connector that you referred to?
Thanks for all the help!
Yep you are all good with those.

I like to order 10v though. No real difference as that rail will never see 6.3v. I just like a larger margin.

But yep. You good to go sir!
 

Scettles

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@mattytrog I found the picture of the rear of the motherboard on here... And saw the 4/9 pad saying vol+ and joycon strap... Test pads... Can I use those instead of trying to do the ones on the front of the board?
 

mattytrog

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@metaljay

IMG_20190708_115317.jpg


A couple of points...

When doing the vol+ strap, link the unsoldered point to the resistor like this... Gives you something to solder to...

IMG_20190707_193435.jpg



If replacing compound, don`t forget under the copper shim too!
 

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My friend, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything more beautiful than that! You’ve created a work of art!!!
I’ll send a link to mate now, excellent job!!
 
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Ok, I'm an imbecile. It shouldn't need to be said, but make sure the switch is off before you start fucking with it. I was putting the sd card slot back when I accidentally slid the connector across the socket and promptly fried my 400 gig micro sd card. No longer detected in either the switch or my pc. At least the switch gets into rcm though...
 

khuong

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chip works fine for months now... can't seem to get it windows to recognize the usb device once in bootloader mode.
 

metaljay

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Ok, I'm an imbecile. It shouldn't need to be said, but make sure the switch is off before you start fucking with it. I was putting the sd card slot back when I accidentally slid the connector across the socket and promptly fried my 400 gig micro sd card. No longer detected in either the switch or my pc. At least the switch gets into rcm though...

I thought the main reason for disconnecting power before soldering is because you can run a voltage over the soldering tip and create a short.

How has it fried the card? It has no live components
 

Hayato213

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Ok, I'm an imbecile. It shouldn't need to be said, but make sure the switch is off before you start fucking with it. I was putting the sd card slot back when I accidentally slid the connector across the socket and promptly fried my 400 gig micro sd card. No longer detected in either the switch or my pc. At least the switch gets into rcm though...

Does the unit still read another SD card?
 

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Does the unit still read another SD card?
Yeah, it reads other cards just fine, it's just the card I had in the slot at the time.

If you don't line up the sd card slot/module just right, it won't go in. I didn't have it lined up exactly and shorted something.

Disregard the shitty looking soldering job, I still need to clean up the flux and run the wires somewhere better

hHEtmLB.jpg
 
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Scettles

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This may be a stupid question, but Im taking my board out to just use the easier looking test points on the back... is the alternate 3.3V fine to use in place of the 3v points on the front?
 

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