Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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ErAzOr

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Very strange. It should be working. Let me do some testing and I`ll give you an update.


The other side of the board. Your options:

Remove board and fit a jumper wire to the testpoint. This will restore functionality.

Or - suicide method... Ver carefully, using a blade, stratch around the point where it passes through the board. This MAY give you something to solder to. I don`t recommend this. You can send to me if you require it fixing.



Agreed. They used all QFP packages in them days. The amount of legs that got ripped off was ridiculous!

Hi and thanks for your response. Can you show me a picture, where the tespoint on the other side of the board is?
 

Natsuru

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Might have a small issue, i got a bit of solder bridging the 2 caps on the primary 3v source. I can't tell if these are connected anyways or I must remove the bridge.
I've been trying to remove it but I still get continuity. I'm afraid i will burn the caps before I remove the bridge.


https://imgur.com/z1VIDy3
images of bridged caps - Not my switch, my switch caps are closer together and the mask is a darker green.
 
Last edited by Natsuru,

mattytrog

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Might have a small issue, i got a bit of solder bridging the 2 caps on the primary 3v source. I can't tell if these are connected anyways or I must remove the bridge.
I've been trying to remove it but I still get continuity. I'm afraid i will burn the caps before I remove the bridge.


https://imgur.com/z1VIDy3
images of bridged caps - Not my switch, my switch caps are closer together and the mask is a darker green.
Remove the bridge or you will have dock problems. (Fast-blinking green LED on dock)
 

Adr990

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I just resoldered the 2.2uf back, a 35v capable one.

Booting without charging makes the Switch freeze at the Nitnendo Switch logo.

Booting while charging and it boots right up.

Any idea what might causes this behavior?
 

mattytrog

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I just resoldered the 2.2uf back, a 35v capable one.

Booting without charging makes the Switch freeze at the Nitnendo Switch logo.

Booting while charging and it boots right up.

Any idea what might causes this behavior?

Post a pic
 

ErAzOr

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Very strange. It should be working. Let me do some testing and I`ll give you an update.


The other side of the board. Your options:

Remove board and fit a jumper wire to the testpoint. This will restore functionality.

Or - suicide method... Ver carefully, using a blade, stratch around the point where it passes through the board. This MAY give you something to solder to. I don`t recommend this. You can send to me if you require it fixing.

Is one of these poins the testpoint?
 

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Adr990

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I just finished installing my M0 Trinket! (With a old UF2 for the old method 1)
The Switch still boots, so it's not broken, whoop. :P

There are some powering/booting issue's however.


Installation pictures (album):
https://imgur.com/a/JY0QnI0

I also made two booting recordings:

In the end here it just turned off with a snap sound?


Here the screen started glitching at the end.

While typing this comment, it seems now, after the screen glitching, it doesn't boot anymore.
Disconnecting the 3v from the M0 Trinket trying to power it on multiple times doesn't seem to do anything. Luckily I caught it's last light on camera, if it helps at all?
 

mattytrog

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I just finished installing my M0 Trinket! (With a old UF2 for the old method 1)
The Switch still boots, so it's not broken, whoop. :P

There are some powering/booting issue's however.


Installation pictures (album):
https://imgur.com/a/JY0QnI0

I also made two booting recordings:

In the end here it just turned off with a snap sound?


Here the screen started glitching at the end.

While typing this comment, it seems now, after the screen glitching, it doesn't boot anymore.
Disconnecting the 3v from the M0 Trinket trying to power it on multiple times doesn't seem to do anything. Luckily I caught it's last light on camera, if it helps at all?


Looking now...

Hello can I use memloaderv2 with this mod ?
Certainly.

Rename memloader.bin to start.bin or 1.bin or whatever

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I just finished installing my M0 Trinket! (With a old UF2 for the old method 1)
The Switch still boots, so it's not broken, whoop. :P

There are some powering/booting issue's however.


Installation pictures (album):
https://imgur.com/a/JY0QnI0

I also made two booting recordings:

In the end here it just turned off with a snap sound?


Here the screen started glitching at the end.

While typing this comment, it seems now, after the screen glitching, it doesn't boot anymore.
Disconnecting the 3v from the M0 Trinket trying to power it on multiple times doesn't seem to do anything. Luckily I caught it's last light on camera, if it helps at all?


Right. Something is zapping power. Drawing too much current I`m guessing.

Take some good pictures of the board / install. DONT POWER IT ON UNTIL YOU HAVE DONE THIS.
 

Adr990

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I have tried to push the power button since. (This is how I confirmed it didn't turn on again)

More installation pictures, hopefully more helpful.
https://imgur.com/a/EwxPGyx

I think the TX and RX wires soldered to the Switch Motherboard could sort out since they have exposed wire. I will patch that up with some shrink tube.
Other that that, some dirty spots, 99.99% isopropyl alcohol will take care of that I think? Will also do that, if you agree.

Thanks in advance man. :)
 

mattytrog

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I have tried to push the power button since. (This is how I confirmed it didn't turn on again)

More installation pictures, hopefully more helpful.
https://imgur.com/a/EwxPGyx

I think the TX and RX wires soldered to the Switch Motherboard could sort out since they have exposed wire. I will patch that up with some shrink tube.
Other that that, some dirty spots, 99.99% isopropyl alcohol will take care of that I think? Will also do that, if you agree.

Thanks in advance man. :)
Hello!

Right. A few points. Please don`t think I`m being hurtful or a dick! Just want you to do the best that you can. :)
  • Your soldering iron is far too hot. Leading to excess shrinking of the insulation. Also, as you are tinning the wires, you are letting the solder run up the copper too far. Both of these is causing the insulation to shrink and become ruined on your wires.
  • USB wires are a mess and look shorted onto the sense pin and each other to me.
  • Joycon strap point on the switch motherboard is untidy and cannot see of you have pridged any other points.
  • The point you are using for power, I think is wrong. It should be on the next pad to the right, directly next to it.

I`d take the following action
  • Remove all wires, clean up with isopropyl alcohol and start again. Looks like the vol+ strap is soldered correctly, so WELL DONE on that.
  • Use AWG30 Kynar wrapping wire instead. Insulation is tougher and MUCH more heat resistant.
  • Use leaded solder. The more poisonous something is in this game, the better.
  • Don`t be frightened of no-clean flux. Use it if you have it.
If you are struggling, you can send it to me. Didn`t I do one for you a few months ago?

Hope it works out

:)
 
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methamz

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Im working on a custom board to make an external dongle. I flashed the bootloader with openocd (thanks to OP). But I dont have any idea about how should I use UF2 files with my custom board. Is there any source about that?
 

mattytrog

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Im working on a custom board to make an external dongle. I flashed the bootloader with openocd (thanks to OP). But I dont have any idea about how should I use UF2 files with my custom board. Is there any source about that?
You have flashed a uf2 bootloader. You need a reset button on the reset line of your board which you should have.

Double press that.
 
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slinso

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hi matty,
soldered yesterday and every went smooth.
but when checked first page there is a new 3V point now. i have used the 3V under the nand chip.
Is there a problem?

Thanks!
 

mattytrog

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hi matty,
soldered yesterday and every went smooth.
but when checked first page there is a new 3V point now. i have used the 3V under the nand chip.
Is there a problem?

Thanks!
Not at all.

I just really really dislike disturbing the NAND.
The BTB connectors (that connect the NAND to the motherboard) are extremely fragile. One mistaken touch with the solering iron and its all over unless you have a NAND backup. Or maybe reballing skills
 
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slinso

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Not at all.

I just really really dislike disturbing the NAND.
The BTB connectors (that connect the NAND to the motherboard) are extremely fragile. One mistaken touch with the solering iron and its all over unless you have a NAND backup. Or maybe reballing skills

Sounds good!
Thank you Sir for all your hard work!!!
 
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