Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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phils3r

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Correct!!!
Can you take a picture of your install please?

I`m guessing it is your GND point.
That was it. Now the ground is proper soldered and the switch booted again. But after a little while the 3v3 point got loose. So I need to resolder it.
Is it better to use glue to fixate the 3.3v on the nand?
I'll keep you updated.
 

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Would this be easier for people regarding the launcher?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Hello Mattytrog
You have made a large big job with many version and informations... too many then!
Can you calrify with method, with appropriate cabling mode need to be executed?
I feel a bit lost
Ex I use a M0 with dual boot + multi boot as target

How do i need to plug M0 on SWITCH ( pin modele) with all alternative point contact ( recommanded plug method: 1? 3?)
How to initialise ( before remove USB port for ex with UF2 file ( wicth one)
How to modify ( wehn it s yet inside the SWICTH)
How to test

Material necessary to perform such action
Wicth files use??
Sorry but i read many of post ans dont be able to sum up them?

Thnaks a lot
Laurent
Je parle très mal le français! Regardez la méthode 1 dans le post original. Je peux parler français en PM mais pas en fil général. Ce n'est pas juste pour les autres.

Translate... Can speak French to you if it helps in PM. My French is shyte.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

That was it. Now the ground is proper soldered and the switch booted again. But after a little while the 3v3 point got loose. So I need to resolder it.
Is it better to use glue to fixate the 3.3v on the nand?
I'll keep you updated.

If soldered well, glue not needed. I add a bit of epoxy because I`m OCD.
 
D

Deleted-172301

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With Method 2, why would a reset via the OS bypass the trinket?

Method 2 - Dual Boot - Trinket, SwitchME and ItsyBitsy. Check Alternative points if the 3v point seems a little difficult! Do NOT enable autoRCM with this.
Method 2 - 6 wire install
Warning... Upon selecting restart from Switch Horizon OS, your switch WILL reboot into normal mode unless you hold volume when screen turns off at reboot.
 
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ROEKENS

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Hi Thanks

1000 merci
It could help a bit. Anyway it should not be enough i think

About Methode 1 just 4 wires ( right?) it mean we muts use ( one model of UF2 file OK then wicth one?)
We will prepare the SD card with 0 folders, paylod.bin correctly renaed as start.bin for exemple ( in my case look for SX OS)

If we want to reflash the M0 into the SWITH this time, ho tow proceed?

What is your advise with "6 wires" method 3 use. ( I plugged all wire in my mode using VOL+ aternative point but... on my M0 unable to boot on CFW, do in eed a jig for first boot?)

Regards
Thanks in advance
Laurent
 

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With Method 2, why would a reset via the OS bypass the trinket?

Because at present (this is about to change), we use the RESET function of the Trinket to short joycon strap at first power-up. I hate this by the way.

Therefore, no payload can be sent as we are not pressing the button to trigger RESET on trinket, thus we are not shorting the joycon strap, resulting in a normal boot.

Once someone confirms that the new bootloaders are working, I am updating method 2 and discontinuing method 3 as it is no longer needed.
 
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Because at present (this is about to change), we use the RESET function of the Trinket to short joycon strap at first power-up. I hate this by the way.

Therefore, no payload can be sent as we are not pressing the button to trigger RESET on trinket, thus we are not shorting the joycon strap, resulting in a normal boot.

Once someone confirms that the new bootloaders are working, I am updating method 2 and discontinuing method 3 as it is no longer needed.
Oh, I see. So triggering the correct boot sequence in that instance is only a matter of pushing the reset button or holding the vol button?
 

mattytrog

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Oh, I see. So triggering the correct boot sequence in that instance is only a matter of pushing the reset button or holding the vol button?
pushing the reset button AND holding vol+

But this will be obsolete very shortly.
 
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pushing the reset button AND holding vol+

But this will be obsolete very shortly.
I am all eyes and ears.

I'm pulling the trigger early and sending my switch to get chipped. Should have it back by next week. Once I have it back I'd love to test what you have.
 

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I am all eyes and ears.

I'm pulling the trigger early and sending my switch to get chipped. Should have it back by next week. Once I have it back I'd love to test what you have.
Ok. Off topic... But how much is it costing you? If you prefer not to say I understand
 
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Wow...

Looks like for a UK service, I`ll be charging £50 all-in then.

Esp. Now these bootloaders are fixed, things should be 100% reliable now!
Not necessarily. You don't know what the installers supply cost is, or shipping, or what the quality of the service is. Dont be afraid to charge people dude. They'll get their moneys worth if you help them all the time like you help us. People who under charge find themselves in bad situations with warranties and supplies on hand.
 
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metaljay

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I’d love to try the new method 2 but that reset strap is so hard to solder to. The others are doable but even under a magnifying glass the reset is insane! It’s so easy to just take all the solder off the cap or move it entirely
 

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I’d love to try the new method 2 but that reset strap is so hard to solder to. The others are doable but even under a magnifying glass the reset is insane! It’s so easy to just take all the solder off the cap or move it entirely
You don`t need the reset strap! thats the point.

All you need is method 1, with either 1 extra strap for joycon, or 2 extra straps for joycon & vol+

So 5 wire or 6 wire install...

Thats the beauty of it!

Have it dual-boot.
 

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You don`t need the reset strap! thats the point.

All you need is method 1, with either 1 extra strap for joycon, or 2 extra straps for joycon & vol+

Thats the beauty of it!

Have it dual-boot.
I’m talking about the blue wire in your diagram. Can you do a quick sketch what you mean and I might give it a go
 

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I’m talking about the blue wire in your diagram. Can you do a quick sketch what you mean and I might give it a go
Yes... This method is new and unpublished...

Follow method 1 wiring.

Once you have done that, look at the joycon strap (from method 3) and fit that. And the vol+ strap if you want it. Bear in mind, it will lock you in to CFW all the time if you fit vol+ strap

All with no autoRCM necessary.
Will do tidy one later. Very quick edited graphic...
testmethod2.jpg
 
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Wow...

Looks like for a UK service, I`ll be charging £50 all-in then.

Esp. Now these bootloaders are fixed, things should be 100% reliable now!
Not necessarily. You don't know what the installers supply cost is, or shipping, or what the quality of the service is. Dont be afraid to charge people dude. They'll get their moneys worth if you help them all the time like you help us. People who under charge find themselves in bad situations with warranties and supplies on hand.

I agree. The logistics of shipping to thr UK from my end is a bit extreme. You should partner with people in the US to make things easier. Group orders would be cheaper and stuff.
 
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@mattytrog got my soldering gear out now, so will report back. Quick question though... as i have method 1 now (with auto RCM) and i am on a higher firmware from choirNX, then how can i test this has worked? as i cannot take it out of autoRCM otherwise will burn fuses?
 

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@mattytrog got my soldering gear out now, so will report back. Quick question though... as i have method 1 now (with auto RCM) and i am on a higher firmware from choirNX, then how can i test this has worked? as i cannot take it out of autoRCM otherwise will burn fuses?
You can't.

Unless you solder both straps.

If for whatever reason it doesn't work and you disable autoRCM ( which I is the only way of testing) your fuses will burn.
 

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soldering done, will downgrade firmware and turn off autoRCM... bad news you'll have to wait a few hours as now going out...
god that point was hard to solder!
IMG-0182.jpg


IMG-0185.jpg
 
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