Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Of course! Just wanted to double check. Always better to ask stupid questions instead of making stupid mistakes!

Have you thought about adding the SX Pro to the OP? That has been documented on how to be installed internally as well
If the demand is there then yes.

But SX Pro is the same as the others more or less.

Would many people strip one and fit it internally?
 
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If the demand is there then yes.

But SX Pro is the same as the others more or less.

Would many people strip one and fit it internally?
Considering that a lot of people have one laying around already I would think so. You don't need to strip much off of it to get it to fit
 

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No.
Eject SD card
Send Hekate
Just go to launch. You may get an error about SD card. Press power again to continue with a default boot.

Once in home screen let me know

So when I inject the payload from tcm gui now, I get "injecting payload" for about 20-30 seconds, then get a green check and no message. Nothing shows on the switch and red led keeps blinking on mod. It used to go solid when the payload injected properly. I've tried reinstalling the driver and still same.

Ah, got it, had to press button on mod a few times and it took, I'm back in hekate.

Pressed power button to boot, after error about SD card, got error:
Unknown package1,
Version (= '').
Failed to launch firmware.
 
Last edited by djvj,

olku

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I have a trinket showing up tomorrow in that case.

For confirmation we have to desolder the female connector on it to fit, right ?

We don't have to.
I had to use very thin double sided tape in order it to fit without leaving a bump on the back cover.
20180812_202413.jpg
 
Last edited by olku,

mattytrog

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So when I inject the payload from tcm gui now, I get "injecting payload" for about 20-30 seconds, then get a green check and no message. Nothing shows on the switch and red led keeps blinking on mod. It used to go solid when the payload injected properly. I've tried reinstalling the driver and still same.

Ah, got it, had to press button on mod a few times and it took, I'm back in hekate.

Pressed power button to boot, after error about SD card, got error:
Unknown package1,
Version (= '').
Failed to launch firmware.
Eject SD card. Let hekate boot with its default config
 
D

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@mattytrog The OP says not to remove anything, but there does not seem to be enough space on my trinket m0 for the rebug file.

This is the correct file I need to boot into sxos and whatever other payloads I have on my SD right?

gUPT3Z1.png

YET2BqX.png


EDIT: If this happens to anyone else..just double click the reset button twice(fast) twice more.
 
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mattytrog

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@mattytrog The OP says not to remove anything, but there does not seem to be enough space on my trinket m0 for the rebug file.

This is the correct file I need to boot into sxos and whatever other payloads I have on my SD right?

gUPT3Z1.png

YET2BqX.png


EDIT: If this happens to anyone else..just double click the reset button twice(fast) twice more.

Circuitpy is not the drive you need. Double press reset, that should change to trinketboot.

Then drag the file over.
 
D

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Circuitpy is not the drive you need. Double press reset, that should change to trinketboot.

Then drag the file over.
Looks like you got me right before the edit.

The drive seems to be closing when I drag the file over now and if I open it again by double clicking the rebug UF2 is not saved to the drive
 

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Looks like you got me right before the edit.

The drive seems to be closing when I drag the file over now and if I open it again by double clicking the rebug UF2 is not saved to the drive
That's the correct behaviour. The drive will disappear once a new UF2 goes on to it.
 

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Current.uf2 is exactly that.

Currently what is on the chip.

Drag something else over on to it, the drive will disappear. Now whatever you have just dragged over is now the current.uf2.

The cycle continues
 
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SD card was never in it. Your previous post said to leave it out so I never put it back in.

What firmware is it looking for that is failing?

Hi Mattytrog, do you know what firmware it's referring to, so hopefully I can get something figure out why I can't boot to home screen still?
 
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I'm having trouble soldering to the micro b connector on the trinket m0 for RX and TX. Can I just solder to the specified TX and RX points on this trinket instead ? Iirc they are on the left hand side
 

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Hi Mattytrog, do you know what firmware it's referring to, so hopefully I can get something figure out why I can't boot to home screen still?
Ok...
Hi Mattytrog, do you know what firmware it's referring to, so hopefully I can get something figure out why I can't boot to home screen still?


OK... We seem to be struggling with this. It`s OK... It is different from other modchips you may have used.

Follow this... Leave SD card out of machine

1) Boot up TegraRCMsmash
2) Get ready to send Hekate
3) Get into RCM
4) Send Hekate. This should take you to the Hekate menu
5) Select launch with power buttons... You will get an error about SD card missing and booting default configuration.
6) Switch should boot normally
7) Once on home screen of switch, disconnect from USB
8) Press reset on modchip/switchme/trinket TWICE!!! I forget which you are using.
9) Plug into your PC. REBUGBOOT/ TRINKETBOOT should pop up
10) You will see 3 files in there: CURRENT.UF2, INDEX.HTM & INFO_UF2.TXT
11) If you don`t see the above in step 10, then keep trying until you do. Keep the drive open. No need to delete anything
12) Download THIS
13) Unzip.
14) Drag the file that is called S2_Chainloader (ends in UF2) to the REBUGBOOT / TRINKETBOOT drive
15) Insert SD card into PC. In the file you have downloaded, you will find a 0.zip file
16) Extract this
17) Put the new extracted 0 folder on to your memory card
18) Download hekate.bin from the hekate thread. Place hekate.bin INSIDE the 0 folder.
19) Rename hekate.bin to start.bin
20) Power off switch with power button, insert SD card and try to boot.
 
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Looks like it is working! Woot woot

Just need to rearrange my SD card for SXOS now it looks like since it yells at me when I click Launch about no configs being found
 

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Looks like it is working! Woot woot

Just need to rearrange my SD card for SXOS now it looks like since it yells at me when I click Launch
Well done.

But please please shorten those wires A LOT! The heatpipe gets very hot.
Please reroute your cables correctly
 

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