Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Sorry to bother again Mind to explain what ddoes it include? (material stuff in general I assume?)

Also would it change a lot for a commerce that does it? (which means other things to pay, like employees, general company stuff,...)

I`m not a business expert, but I wouldn`t do it as a business.

Employees? No idea. There are only two people I trust, one of them is me, the other is not an employee... Therefore I do it myself because I trust myself to do the work. Nobody else.

Anyone?
 
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mariogamer

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I`m not a business expert, but I wouldn`t do it as a business.

Employees? No idea. There are only two people I trust, one of them is me, the other is not an employee... Therefore I do it myself because I trust myself to do the work. Nobody else.

Anyone?
Actually me too I wouldn't do it. It's just that I'm arguing with some people about it.
 

mattytrog

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Coming tomorrow...

A way to launch up to 9 (maybe 8) any size payloads from a trinket, despite having only 256k memory.

Kind of pointless, as you can launch any payload from SX loader.

But, thanks to TX and CTCaer, this facility now exists if you absolutely MUST launch your payloads from a trinket. An SD card is required BTW.

Drunk now, so write-up coming in OP tomorrow.
 
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Canna

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Coming tomorrow...

A way to launch up to 9 (maybe 8) any size payloads from a trinket, despite having only 256k memory.

Kind of pointless, as you can launch any payload from SX loader.

But, thanks to TX and CTCaer, this facility now exists if you absolutely MUST launch your payloads from a trinket. An SD card is required BTW.

Drunk now, so write-up coming in OP tomorrow.
D.I.Y Thread that
And good job enjoy your early monday morning drinks:wtf::wacko::grog::D
 
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METHOD 2 users!

Try this Hekate UF2 to see if it prevents going into RCM please.

This is only applicable to those with RESET wire connected!

Anyone can try it. Feedback please!
 

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M-O-B

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just an idea but for the multi payload, why not cut the trace from the rst pad to the button. then solder a jumper wire from the point on the button, with the other end of the wire going to pad 1.

and have the rst pad wire going to the power button on the switch or whatever power button point you wanna use.

TrinketM0-multi wire.jpg


this way you have no need for a wire out the back of console and grounding it. just press the old rst button to ground pad 1.
 
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just an idea but for the multi payload, why not cut the trace from the rst pad to the button. then solder a jumper wire from the point on the button, with the other end of the wire going to pad 1.

and have the rst pad wire going to the power button on the switch or whatever power button point you wanna use.

View attachment 140698

this way you have no need for a wire out the back of console and grounding it. just press the old rst button to ground pad 1.

Might be a problem for those who want to reset the trinket or upload a uf2.

Also, I have a method 1 version that increases payload every boot. But that would burn through the flash quicker. Unless you didn't write to flash, but then every reset, would be forgotten.

I'm confident this is the best approach at the minute :)

That said, this approach may have value for method 2 users... Will look into it
 
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Might be a problem for those who want to reset the trinket or upload a uf2.

Also, I have a method 1 version that increases payload every boot. But that would burn through the flash quicker. Unless you didn't write to flash, but then every reset, would be forgotten.

I'm confident this is the best approach at the minute :)

That said, this approach may have value for method 2 users... Will look into it

reset the trinket by pressing power button twice for uploading new or updated files.

just another option if needed
 

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so now that hekate 4 is out, does it improve our trinket in any particular way? can we now for example, launch linux directly from the trinket?
 

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In case anyone needs it, here's hekate - CTCaer mod v4.0 for Method 1.

FYI this does work with RajNX (what I use). You will need to move your rajnx_ipl.ini to /bootloader on the SD and rename it hekate_ipl.ini.

You'll also need to update your paths for the kip files in the ini. For example:

kip1=/RajNX/loader.kip
kip1=/RajNX/sm.kip
 

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hello mattytrog I followed this tutorial

learn.adafruit.c om/pages/7135/elements/2257333/download

but I have a mistake you to help me because I do not know too much about raspberry
she connects well etelnet he does not see the chip
he says I have a problem on the line14

pi @ raspberrypi: ~ / bootloader $ sudo openocd
Open On-Chip Debugger 0.10.0 + dev-00523-g2a3b709a (2018-08-23-00: 59)
Licensed under GNU GPL v2
For bug reports, read
openocd.o rg/doc/doxygen/bugs.html
BCM2835 GPIO config: tck = 11, tms = 25, tdi = 10, tdo = 9
BCM2835 GPIO nums: swclk = 11, swdio = 25
none separate
adapt speed: 400 kHz
cortex_m reset_config sysresetreq
srst_only separate srst_gates_jtag srst_open_drain connect_deassert_srst
adapt_nsrst_delay: 100
adapt_nsrst_assert_width: 100
Info: BCM2835 GPIO JTAG / SWD bitbang driver
Info: JTAG and SWD modes enabled
Info: clock speed 400 kHz
Info: SWD DPIDR 0x00fe9358
SWD DPIDR 0x00fe9358
in procedure 'init' called at file "openocd.cfg", line 14
in procedure 'ocd_bouncer'

Info: Listening on port 6666 for tcl connections
Info: Listening on port 4444 for telnet connections
I asked you if you had a picture of the microsd of your raspberry
 

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