- Thread starter MatinatorX
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Just stand in line with usdo you accept preorders
Theres alot of people that want these things. I myself will be buying 2. One for me, one for a friend.@MatinatorX I cant waiiiiiiiit!
Don't worry everyone, it won't be long now!
First reserved batch of 10 going out next week then I'll have a batch of 100 out on tindie very shortly after that, possibly even a week after if the early adopters have good feedback by then. There won't be any reservations for those, I'll be posting the link here instead. If that batch sells out quick I'll try and do backorders to get an idea of how many I need to make. If I need to, I can scale production up quite a bit pretty quickly so there won't be any three months delays or anything like there was with SX Pro. The boards have been designed with PCBA services and common parts in mind (except the USB port and supercap which I can get in large volume quickly but need to solder myself). I really doubt I'll be making 1000 of these but if you all prove me wrong, I'll be able to get it done.
Thank you for all the amazing support!
First reserved batch of 10 going out next week then I'll have a batch of 100 out on tindie very shortly after that, possibly even a week after if the early adopters have good feedback by then. There won't be any reservations for those, I'll be posting the link here instead. If that batch sells out quick I'll try and do backorders to get an idea of how many I need to make. If I need to, I can scale production up quite a bit pretty quickly so there won't be any three months delays or anything like there was with SX Pro. The boards have been designed with PCBA services and common parts in mind (except the USB port and supercap which I can get in large volume quickly but need to solder myself). I really doubt I'll be making 1000 of these but if you all prove me wrong, I'll be able to get it done.
Thank you for all the amazing support!
Last edited by MatinatorX,
i hope tindie allow shipping to germany for decent shipping price.
all countries that are not Europe we have to pay custom fees in germany from a value of over 26euro including shipping costs we need to pay 19% vat !
let's assume the dragon injector costs 23 euros and shipping 5 euros then the package will land at customs and we have to pay extra 5,32 €. for 1 dragon injector we have to pay total price of
33.32 euros = 49,67CAD to get it to germany!
all countries that are not Europe we have to pay custom fees in germany from a value of over 26euro including shipping costs we need to pay 19% vat !
let's assume the dragon injector costs 23 euros and shipping 5 euros then the package will land at customs and we have to pay extra 5,32 €. for 1 dragon injector we have to pay total price of
33.32 euros = 49,67CAD to get it to germany!
Last edited by Degga,
@MatinatorX I definitely gonna be inn for buying this because I tried to open my switch and I stripped the last screw before getting the back plate off So installing an internal one will be difficult.
But are you able to share the STL in advanced so I can see if I am able to print it on my FDM printer? I understand you had problems with that.
And will there be an option for the board only? I couldn't get all the parts for cheaper than you hehe.
So installing an internal one will be difficult. But are you able to share the STL in advanced so I can see if I am able to print it on my FDM printer? I understand you had problems with that.
And will there be an option for the board only? I couldn't get all the parts for cheaper than you hehe.
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For a stripped screw, I've carefully drilled them out before. All you do is carefully drill with a bit that is a size bias the shaft of the screw. Drill until the head pops, it'll usually stay on the bit once it pops. Then once you get the back plate off there will be enough for you to use a pair of pliers and unscrew the shaft.@MatinatorX I definitely gonna be inn for buying this because I tried to open my switch and I stripped the last screw before getting the back plate off
But are you able to share the STL in advanced so I can see if I am able to print it on my FDM printer? I understand you had problems with that.
And will there be an option for the board only? I couldn't get all the parts for cheaper than you hehe.
Or you can get a screw extractor kit, it has a bit that you drill into the screw and it catches it a certain way which allows you to then put the drill in reverse and back out the screw.
Last edited by BL4Z3D247,
I'll see what I can do after some research.
i love your project, and i want it for send to spain
you will make public 3d diagrams to print a cardiget game and pcb?
Of course! All source files will be made public as soon as the prototype is built. This includes the 3D models, schematic, gerbers, code and BOM.
@MatinatorX I definitely gonna be inn for buying this because I tried to open my switch and I stripped the last screw before getting the back plate off
But are you able to share the STL in advanced so I can see if I am able to print it on my FDM printer? I understand you had problems with that.
And will there be an option for the board only? I couldn't get all the parts for cheaper than you hehe.
Sure! Hit me up with a PM and we'll work something out. I'd be interested to see if they print well since my FDM is still waiting for my new rigid couplers to arrive.
There will definitely be an option for the board only. I'm going to try and put 50 of them alongside the 100 full assemblies once they're ready for tindie.
If you're good with a dremel, you can also score a slot in the head and get a good flathead in there. This is my preferred method for tiny screws in electronics with soft metals.
Custom colors won't be a thing for the tester batch or the first public batch of 100 unfortunately.
Once I get my hands on an SLA printer of my own, there are a few color choices I can print in. I'd need to do them in batches of 20 though to justify the cost, since bottles of resin are expensive and it's a pain to swap them out and clean everything and you end up losing some in the process.
I've attached some pictures of the colors available and what they look like once printed.
However, it seems pretty clear to me that "marmoon" is the best color and everything should be printed with it going forward.
Just for you:
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Psionic Roshambo:
One thing that just occurred to me.... The sound on the 2600 sucked less back then the harsh sound we hear now is from infinitely better speakers we have now, back when the 2600 was new speakers produced a almost muffled sound, like CRTs made old graphics look slightly better. -
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Psionic Roshambo:
I wonder if I could recommend that to some emulation devs that perhaps the sound could use some smoothing out to simulate those old TVs
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Psionic Roshambo:
I think a few of the early systems could benefit from that, at least up to the 8 bit generation, by the 16 bit generation I think TVs had gotten a lot better in almost every way
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Xdqwerty:
it says it only works for the original R4, R4i Gold (r4ids.cn), R4iDSN (r4idsn.com) and Acekard R.P.G. -
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Psionic Roshambo:
Just give it a try, but honestly if you have a 3DS you can play DS games without a card just off the internal SD card
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