Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Hi, I'm just getting started and am a little confused after the reading/browsing the forums for a while. I just bought an SX Pro Dongle, but haven't plugged it in yet. My Switch is updated to the official 5.1.0 firmware.

I bought SX Pro after reading of it's benefits, but now I'm seeing these internal modchip methods. I feel comfortable enough soldering that I think I'd prefer to have a permanent internal solution rather than always needing the Dongle.

1. Since I'm already 5.1.0, is method 1 my best option just because it's the least amount of soldering?
2. What do Trinket M0 and Gemma M0 refer to and what are the differences?
3. The OP doesn't get into booting/loading payloads after the "modchip"/wires are installed? That's information found elsewhere?
4. Any reason I should just use the SX Dongle over this method?

Thank you

You are on 5.1?
Use method 1.

The boot process is automated. It is all in the thread. Once you flash the trinket and install it correctly, the SX pro is not required.

Autorcm and method 1. Please have a read of OP thoroughly. I realise it is a lot to read through, but buried in the thread are videos, and pictures.

Gemma m0 will be fine for method 1. I'm in process of updating the files for Gemma but I'm at the coast at the moment.

I'm trying to make the thread the least abigiuous as I can.
 
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wiiando

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Out of interest, if you do method 3 and don't connect vol+ but connect rst, would it create any issues?

Only asking as having to either try and press the dongle reset button twice to update it or disassembly again, seems like such a pain
 

vcazan

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Wow okay so deleting fs_mitm.kip has fixed my problem, games run fine now! Thank you so much for the advice!!!!!

Done a few Trinket Rei installs and all run fine - Use Darth Meteos' Super Special SD Stash v3.0.1

Delete fs_mitm.kip from ReiNX/sysmodules

Get the newest tinfoil.nro and replace

Almost forgot - Easy to reprogram with PC and usb C cable - connect cable then double tap trinket button - Takes a few tries usually

Does ReiNX suport botting to OFW in AutoRCM?
 
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EvanVanVan

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You are on 5.1?
Use method 1.

The boot process is automated. It is all in the thread. Once you flash the trinket and install it correctly, the SX pro is not required.

Autorcm and method 1. Please have a read of OP thoroughly. I realise it is a lot to read through, but buried in the thread are videos, and pictures.

Gemma m0 will be fine for method 1. I'm in process of updating the files for Gemma but I'm at the coast at the moment.

I'm trying to make the thread the least abigiuous as I can.

I think my main confusion was not realizing that trinket m0 and gemma m0 were generic [mod]chips purchased from adafruit rather than different exploitable boards already inside the switch. :/
 

wiiando

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You don't have to disassemble to update the files on the Trinket. Slightly press on the back of the switch where the trinket sits whenever you want to update it. You should be able to do so without an issue.

It only takes a bloody second. If you think that is too much to handle, then this clearly isn't for you bloke.

I've cut the shielding away were the trinket goes, so pressing it would be pretty difficult.
 

mattytrog

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I've cut the shielding away were the trinket goes, so pressing it would be pretty difficult.
The trinket reset button is just the right size to press with back cover.

All Gemma files are coming too tomorrow. Been helping Canna get his external dongle solution up and running. Check the thread out!

Regarding ReiNX, you need to go to the reinx thread.

It's a little beyond the remit of this thread. I don't use it, never have, so I cannot help you apart from providing latest payloads.
 
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iriez

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So I've not had insulated wire thin enough for a install, so I got some today and was eager to attempt a properly clean install. This is my brothers xmas present, so figured it could use the extra love.

https://imgur.com/a/mXXysM4

The wire is great and there is no issue with it other than the thickness of the insulation doesn't allow for the kickstand to close if you want to run the RST wire along the channel and tape it down. So I simply cut it short and kept it in the pocket where the kickstand snaps in, properly insulated from the shield and the metal parts of the kickstand.

Some of these pictures were taken with my Jewlers Loupe at both 30x and 60x.
Using the latest main.ino that was provided 3 days ago, Aug 8th. Works wonderfully, kudos to all.
 

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frep

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can i use this point for Vol + ?
I think you have marked the power button, not the vol+ button. (The side with the cable is power, IMO).
Otherwise it seems good to me, to solder there, provided it is easy to get this button pcb out of the switch without taking everything apart.
Any other opinions?

Edit:
Would make more sense, if reffered picture from page 47 is shown here :-)
buttons.jpeg

Edit2:
@Gianga You took the correct button! Sorry, my memory was wrong! :-) The side with the ribbon cable is the vol+
 
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wiiando

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The trinket reset button is just the right size to press with back cover.

All Gemma files are coming too tomorrow. Been helping Canna get his external dongle solution up and running. Check the thread out!

Regarding ReiNX, you need to go to the reinx thread.

It's a little beyond the remit of this thread. I don't use it, never have, so I cannot help you apart from providing latest payloads.

Did not know that, thanks i'll do that.

Issue with method 3, after connecting the vol+ if i just press power it still boots to rcm, no vol+ held, checked my wiring etc, no autorcm
 

mattytrog

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Did not know that, thanks i'll do that.

Issue with method 3, after connecting the vol+ if i just press power it still boots to rcm, no vol+ held, checked my wiring etc, no autorcm

Can you post an image of your install and tell me which file you used please?
 

wiiando

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Can you post an image of your install and tell me which file you used please?

newmethod_ALL_TRINKET_10082018 reinx
20180812_112541.jpg 20180812_112604.jpg 20180812_112629.jpg 20180812_112646.jpg

Added a retouched image, trinket joints weren't the best, probably still aren't but it does work.

If I disconnect vol+ it boots normally with no vol+ pressed if I press vol+ and power I boot reinx, with vol+ connected it boots to reinx no matter if i just press power
 

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mattytrog

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How you have described it, this is correct behaviour.

Method 3, as standard is meant to be autoRCM without autoRCM if you know what I mean.

It is meant to pull straps low and boot.

If you want dual boot, remove vol+ strap.
 
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Canna

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The trinket reset button is just the right size to press with back cover.

All Gemma files are coming too tomorrow. Been helping Canna get his external dongle solution up and running. Check the thread out!

Regarding ReiNX, you need to go to the reinx thread.

It's a little beyond the remit of this thread. I don't use it, never have, so I cannot help you apart from providing latest payloads.
Give them a link to thread . yep i admit hes been helping and we almost worked out how to make this flux capacitor :D
 

wiiando

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How you have described it, this is correct behaviour.

Method 3, as standard is meant to be autoRCM without autoRCM if you know what I mean.

It is meant to pull straps low and boot.

If you want dual boot, remove vol+ strap.

Ye my bad, it's the way it's written on the 1st page

To me it initially reads that if you connect vol+ it stops battery drain?

this is a dual-boot solution IF YOU DO NOT CONNECT VOL+ STRAP(Brown wire in picture) Over a period of time, your battery may drain due to trinket being powered all of the time, so be warned.
 

DarkUnixOs

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Hi all nice work on the trinket m0 is there a latest reinx 4.0 stash build uf2 files? if so let me know!!

thnx for the good work!!
 

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