Tutorial  Updated

Trinket Internal Install.

Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

usb intact.jpg


Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.
Trinket Points.jpg


When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.
trinket install points.jpg


Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.
Finished.jpg



Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Altternative Pad 4 Point.jpg


Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Alt Joycon Rail Pin 10 Point.jpg


Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

another install.jpg


the pad on the power button to use.

power button point.jpg


i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

twinket power off.jpg


ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.


charger_issue_volts.jpg


another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx
 

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Last edited by M-O-B, , Reason: added updated uf2 file.

frep

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The design so far:
Measurements are in [mm].
All components on one side to reduce height.
All testpoints (to solder the wires) on the bottom side. This includes all signals for bootloader-programming (GND, 3V3, Vol- => Reset, SWC, SWD) as well as some gpio's D0 (Rx), D1 (Tx), and D4.
m0_top.jpg

m0_bottom.jpg
 

efxonly123

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Thanks, it didn't
Wouldn't make any sense connecting a capacitor only to ground. The upper pin/pad of this cap is GND and the lower one is the VB pin which is the power source that comes from the VBUS rail (USB).

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Is it something you got from TX, or just an other custom M0 MCU?

Thanks tecfreak, it seemed odd that I was getting ground continuity on both sides of that capacitor, so thanks for confirming that for me.
 

M-O-B

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Does both the 3v and bat pin need to be connected in method 3?

you only need to use one pad it's upto you which one.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

The design so far:
Measurements are in [mm].
All components on one side to reduce height.
All testpoints (to solder the wires) on the bottom side. This includes all signals for bootloader-programming (GND, 3V3, Vol- => Reset, SWC, SWD) as well as some gpio's D0 (Rx), D1 (Tx), and D4.
View attachment 135940
View attachment 135941

would it not make more sence to have the pads to solder the wires to actually on top and not the bottom,would make the install alot better also
 
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frep

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would it not make more sence to have the pads to solder the wires to actually on top and not the bottom,would make the install alot better also

@M-O-B
The reason why I put the testpoints on the bottom was only for saving space and make the thing smaller. I thought, it can be mounted top side down.
But your point is valid, I didn't thought that much about the installing.
Would you prefer a slightly bigger board, but with the pads on the top side?
 

metaljay

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Are you guys following Aboshi2011 on Twitter? He has something that he’s been working on. Meant to be a video tonight demonstrating it

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

no trinket or gemma used.


Oooo let me know more please!
 
D

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@M-O-B
The reason why I put the testpoints on the bottom was only for saving space and make the thing smaller. I thought, it can be mounted top side down.
But your point is valid, I didn't thought that much about the installing.
Would you prefer a slightly bigger board, but with the pads on the top side?

It can be slightly larger if it makes the pads able to just fit on top.

In this case it's not so much the size since a Trinket m0 is even small enough footprint wise, it's more the height that makes it so we need to modify the backplate.

On the trinket I might be able to squeeze it in without cutting the plate only if I remove the usb header, the reset switch and even the surface mount capacitors as they are higher than the other components. The ideal setup would keep everything the same height as the QFN package. If the points were also one sided that would help as well since solder wouldn't be able to adhere below the through holes slightly raising the overall board.

If you nailed that and used low height components making it able to be installed under the vent plate it would be pretty much perfect =)
 
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M-O-B

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@M-O-B
The reason why I put the testpoints on the bottom was only for saving space and make the thing smaller. I thought, it can be mounted top side down.
But your point is valid, I didn't thought that much about the installing.
Would you prefer a slightly bigger board, but with the pads on the top side?

better a few mms wider than having the install 4 or 5mm height or depth increased, switch is so shallow your limited.

trinket is about 26mm × 15mm with pads.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

It can be slightly larger if it makes the pads able to just fit on top.

In this case it's not so much the size since a Trinket m0 is even small enough footprint wise, it's more the height that makes it so we need to modify the backplate.

On the trinket I might be able to squeeze it in without cutting the plate only if I remove the usb header, the reset switch and even the surface mount capacitors as they are higher than the other components. The ideal setup would keep everything the same height as the QFN package. If the points were also one sided that would help as well since solder wouldn't be able to adhere below the through holes slightly raising the overall board.

If you nailed that and used low height components making it able to be installed under the vent plate it would be pretty much perfect =)

you don't need to modify the back plate, it really all just depends on the place you sit the trinket.
 
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better a few mms wider than having the install 4 or 5mm height or depth increased, switch is so shallow your limited.

trinket is about 26mm × 15mm with pads.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



you don't need to modify the back plate, it really all just depends on the place you sit the trinket.
True, it's just so convenient using that shielding box as a nice flat base point lol.
 
D

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I'm using a 7 wire install so I use:

D0: to vol +
D3: to joy con pin 10
D4: to capacitor of death
TX: switch TX
RX: switch RX
Batt: Switch power point
Gnd: Switch ground

using SX OS it's a straight boot into the OS and if you want to use another payload or OFW you just hold down vol+ on boot. This uses the original main.ino and then an sxos compiled header https://github.com/Quantum-cross/sam-fusee-launcher-internal

I then mount on kapton tape above the small shielded square and cleanly connect using 28-30awg enameled coil wire. I then take a chunk out of the backplate shield for clearance, cover the trinket with kapton, replace the shield then cover it with adhesive aluminium tape and make small holes only in the aluminium tape for the reset switch and leds.

This allows the trinket to be put into bootloder mode still you'd just need to remove the cover and since the SX OS boot menu has everything you'd need I doubt a reflash would happen often. This also makes the zone for airflow almost completely level like it was originally aside from the little reset switch and a few bumps (high capacitors I'm looking at you).

I've found it to be the ideal setup but if I had a slightly thinner modchip I could mount it between the shielded sections without modification and then place a small flat reset switch above out of the way.

Right now it's just too much of a hassle modifying the board.

I'd rather not cut the shield but I don't want to impede airflow so the aluminium tape makes a nice clean duct almost like stock.

It's all boiling down to preferences really but in my case this allows the boot and operation to be very kid friendly and there's nothing they can screw up by say clicking the rear plate to put into boot loader mode or having to hold certain keys to boot etc. It just works but also has the full features available if needed.

Just my take on the installation and ideals for a custom chip. I know most mount it above the shield in the airflow tunnel and I know it's likely not impeding airflow much but it can get hot and I'd rather keep that zone clear. I also had a mount on the battery square but had to remove any extra parts on the trinket and replace the capacitors with smaller ones, I ultimately ended up moving it since battery expansion could have led to problems because it was just such a tight fit.

One of these days I'll remember to actually take pictures of each step, I have the equipment but usually try to cram installs in at night plus lazy etc. lol
 

M-O-B

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I was going to look into having something installed into my dock, but I'm not sure it will actually work, not sure it will display on the tv when you boot to rcm mode.

also I want to have sound fx when I remove the switch from the dock.

I did see something on YouTube with sound fx for the dock but can't bloody find it now.
 

mrdude

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@frep

Good design, I agree with the other guys that the point we're soldering to would be better on the same side as the components due to height constraints in the switch - you can get boards made to 0.4/0.6mm and then the parts take up height - so adding wires to the same side would keep the height down. Looking good though.
 

Lil_SpazJoekp

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@M-O-B @re.lax so I was able to get it working. I had a couple of things wrong:


I didn’t flash the trinket correctly; the computer I used has an issue with the USB ports being read only and I thought the sketch was written. Tried on my Mac and used the DnD file and it started behaving correctly. Before it was running the demo that come preinstalled so nothing worked.

When I tried to solder the rst wire to one of the buttons, the flux I put on there and gotten into the buttons and it wasn’t closing the circuit consistently. So, what I did was soldered the wire to the resistor for the power button on the mb near the pwr, vol -, and vol + ribbon header.

Anyway, I got it working. Thanks for the help!
 
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frep

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The testpads are now on the top layer, even with the same board size :-)

m0_top_2.jpg




I mean that here[/QUOTE]

Once the board is done, tested and working, I'll put all the files online and make probably a tutorial (order the pcb, putting bootloader and arduino code on it ...)
 

mrdude

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@frep

Nice one, can you post a pic of underneath the board as well? Also are you still going to test this on a breadboard before you order and PCB's?
 

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