Tutorial  Updated

Trinket Internal Install.

Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

usb intact.jpg


Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.
Trinket Points.jpg


When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.
trinket install points.jpg


Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.
Finished.jpg



Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Altternative Pad 4 Point.jpg


Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Alt Joycon Rail Pin 10 Point.jpg


Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

another install.jpg


the pad on the power button to use.

power button point.jpg


i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

twinket power off.jpg


ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.


charger_issue_volts.jpg


another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx
 

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Last edited by M-O-B, , Reason: added updated uf2 file.

M-O-B

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why not have the trinket switch off when you fully power off the switch.

I'm going to purposely bring the 2 caps to see what happens, coz both points seem to do the same thing supply 3.2v when the switch is powered on.

will also try find the data sheet for the ic and get more info on it.

but I still wouldn't advise anyone to bridge the 2 caps..

I'm also going to see if I can do away with the need for the rst pad wire going to the power button.

 
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ATSAMD21E18au

around £5 on eBay but microchips direct £2.60 but I'd expect shipping to bump that price up.

so it's most likely cheaper to replace the trinket.
They come with a modified boot loader on them too from adafruit and you'd likely need to interface pin 3 and 4 to reprogram it with the default assembly code to make it more user friendly. Samd21 ICE programmers do the trick but is another layer to cost and hassle http://www.avdweb.nl/arduino/samd21/samd21-programmer.html

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit...t-python-circuitpython/uf2-bootloader-details

Definitely easier to just buy a new one =(
 
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mrdude

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why not have the trinket switch off when you fully power off the switch.

I'm going to purposely bring the 2 caps to see what happens, coz both points seem to do the same thing supply 3.2v when the switch is powered on.

That's better using the 3.2v point - also the trinket will use less power now as the regulator won't need to dump some of the voltage as heat - so can be left on the board. How do you plan on 'doing away' with the reset pad on the power switch - you still need to ground the reset pin somehow and will need some sort of switch to do it?
 

Kupie

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quick test putting the 3.6 from the power button to the gnd pad on the trinket, then press the button enables the trinket, then released button and it disables the trinket.

but doing it that way you have no gnd actually on the trinket, so you lose not being able to program it nor could I boot into rcm mode using my install, as the reset button didn't work so would need something different to replace my reset method for rcm mode, so this would probably have to bring back pad 4 setup.

Will need more looking into for this to work properly.
So if we just want SX OS and AutoRCM is installed, then this sounds perfect!

Thanks for all the help <3
 

M-O-B

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have clean up everything from the wires so it's not untidy for testing battery drain, have also shorten the blink as I don't think it needs lots of blinks, plus your not going to see the trinket once the cover is on, unless you have a clear case, removed the wake up stuff from the code also, as I'm not going to need it.



So if we just want SX OS and AutoRCM is installed, then this sounds perfect!

Thanks for all the help <3

why use auto rcm with this method.

That's better using the 3.2v point - also the trinket will use less power now as the regulator won't need to dump some of the voltage as heat - so can be left on the board. How do you plan on 'doing away' with the reset pad on the power switch - you still need to ground the reset pin somehow and will need some sort of switch to do it?

not 100% sure yet but it's really the only thing that needs sorting now, I'll come up with something. I did try pad 4 on the cap with the bat wire but never worked if that did work then it would of been possible to ad a jumper wire from pad 4 to the bat pad, then doing away rst and power button wire.
 
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mrdude

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not 100% sure yet but it's really the only thing that needs sorting now, I'll come up with something. I did try pad 4 on the cap with the bat wire but never worked if that did work then it would of been possible to ad a jumper wire from pad 4 to the bat pad, then doing away rst and power button wire.

Good job so far, for reset - you could use one of the volume buttons, it looks from the cable you posted that that also has points you can use - these probably go to ground as well when the buttons are pressed - or you could just use the power button as you did before. I had a look at the drawings - you could put a jumper from the 3v point on the trinket to the bat point on the trinket - then use the power switch as you did before to the reset point, that should work.
 

M-O-B

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Good job so far, for reset - you could use one of the volume buttons, it looks from the cable you posted that that also has points you can use - these probably go to ground as well when the buttons are pressed - or you could just use the power button as you did before. I had a look at the drawings - you could put a jumper from the 3v point on the trinket to the bat point on the trinket - then use the power switch as you did before to the reset point, that should work.

got it sorted no power or volume up button for reset, every thing seems to work as I want.

no trinket until power is on.
loads rcm mode as normal.
6 wires.
no extra switches or components.

just going to test the code i had edited now hopefully that works.
 

M-O-B

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well seems to work fine video just to show no power or volume up button used for reset. reset button works as it should do, can be stubborn to get it into boot loader mode, unless it's my fat fingers lol. but not as if your going to need it that offen anyway.

works with SXSO payload also.

i think it's almost the perfect solution, until someone comes up with a better solution, I'm sure that will happen soon tx or team matrix will bring out something.

anyway here you go.

 

mrdude

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well seems to work fine video just to show no power or volume up button used for reset. reset button works as it should do, can be stubborn to get it into boot loader mode, unless it's my fat fingers lol. but not as if your going to need it that offen anyway.

works with SXSO payload also.

i think it's almost the perfect solution, until someone comes up with a better solution, I'm sure that will happen soon tx or team matrix will bring out something.

anyway here you go.

Nice one, I'll be picking my switch up tomorrow night from PC world - as they didn't have the one I wanted in stock, so It's getting delivered to the shop tomorrow. I hope you left the sleep code in the ino file. Also are you going to update your first post in the thread with the new wiring and ino files?

I'll take a look at how you did it and see If I can come up with something better - IE better points on the MB to solder to for the 3.3 volts instead of soldering on to those caps.
 

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well seems to work fine video just to show no power or volume up button used for reset. reset button works as it should do, can be stubborn to get it into boot loader mode, unless it's my fat fingers lol. but not as if your going to need it that offen anyway.

works with SXSO payload also.

i think it's almost the perfect solution, until someone comes up with a better solution, I'm sure that will happen soon tx or team matrix will bring out something.

anyway here you go.



so which points did you use
i want to go with the best option.
so you used the rst one or which
 

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well seems to work fine video just to show no power or volume up button used for reset. reset button works as it should do, can be stubborn to get it into boot loader mode, unless it's my fat fingers lol. but not as if your going to need it that offen anyway.

works with SXSO payload also.

i think it's almost the perfect solution, until someone comes up with a better solution, I'm sure that will happen soon tx or team matrix will bring out something.

anyway here you go.


great job, are you planning to update first post? Would love to see a detailed post on power consumption and your wiring setup :)
 

M-O-B

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Nice one, I'll be picking my switch up tomorrow night from PC world - as they didn't have the one I wanted in stock, so It's getting delivered to the shop tomorrow. I hope you left the sleep code in the ino file. Also are you going to update your first post in the thread with the new wiring and ino files?

I'll take a look at how you did it and see If I can come up with something better - IE better points on the MB to solder to for the 3.3 volts instead of soldering on to those caps.

that would be the only point that's a pain, but tbh I have purposely bridged the two 3.2v points on the caps, only coz they seem to do the same thing, probably a dummy point like the 360 seems to have, both act in the same, but I wouldn't tell anyone to do that, I don't care if I blow a console or two up pml.

the only thing I removed from the code was the wake up and volup stuff everything else is the same, and shorten the blink as it was doing my nut in.

so which points did you use
i want to go with the best option.
so you used the rst one or which

the points I used will be posted later once I get time, I won't rush posting things until I'm happy that it's going to work ok.

great job, are you planning to update first post? Would love to see a detailed post on power consumption and your wiring setup :)

on no your a tx fan boi I remember you from the 360 scene lol.

jokes aside yes I'll be updating the op once I have time..
 
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M-O-B

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the files in the op will work with this method, so no need to post the ones I have.

Will update op soon with a diagram for this method.

so many methods for this install its getting daft, but suppose it's what ever method is best for the individual...

Is the "double press power to enter bootloader mode" still intact?

I'm not using that method I didn't like it.

now you just press the reset button on the trinket to upload a payload sketch or drag and drop the CURRENT.UF2 file.

this is how it works now.

 
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IronWarship

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the files in the op will work with this method, so no need to post the ones I have.

Will update op soon with a diagram for this method.

so many methods for this install its getting daft, but suppose it's what ever method is best for the individual...



I'm not using that method I didn't like it.

now you just press the reset button on the trinket to upload a payload sketch or drag and drop the CURRENT.UF2 file.

this is how it works now.



Alright thanks for letting me know!
If I keep the shield off, will that pose any big risks/issues?
 

metaljay

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that would be the only point that's a pain, but tbh I have purposely bridged the two 3.2v points on the caps, only coz they seem to do the same thing, probably a dummy point like the 360 seems to have, both act in the same, but I wouldn't tell anyone to do that, I don't care if I blow a console or two up pml.

the only thing I removed from the code was the wake up and volup stuff everything else is the same, and shorten the blink as it was doing my nut in.



the points I used will be posted later once I get time, I won't rush posting things until I'm happy that it's going to work ok.



on no your a tx fan boi I remember you from the 360 scene lol.

jokes aside yes I'll be updating the op once I have time..
Haha what??? I wouldn’t consider myself a fan boy, I’ve owned many of their products, I haven’t however purchased SX OX, as it’s over priced for what it is...
Amazing though that you recognised me
 
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M-O-B

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Alright thanks for letting me know!
If I keep the shield off, will that pose any big risks/issues?

I wouldn't leave the metal cover off myself, I just cut a space out for the place I put the trinket.

Haha what??? I wouldn’t consider myself a fan boy, I’ve owned many of their products, I haven’t however purchased SX OX, as it’s over priced for what it is...
Amazing though that you recognised me

i had the SXSO but the switch its licence to, the sd card bugger up on me, so can't use it now and it seems you can't have the license transfer to a new switch, so that's £20 wasted.

yeah I'm like an elephant never forget pml..
 

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why not have the trinket switch off when you fully power off the switch.

I'm going to purposely bring the 2 caps to see what happens, coz both points seem to do the same thing supply 3.2v when the switch is powered on.

will also try find the data sheet for the ic and get more info on it.

but I still wouldn't advise anyone to bridge the 2 caps..

I'm also going to see if I can do away with the need for the rst pad wire going to the power button.


I'm am really hoping you can help me

My trinket onmly shows up as usbtiny. I cannot upload to it. I downloaded the drivers and the boards but no com port.
 

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