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Does anyone know to use this application on Parallels? My Joycons keep disconnecting right after it connected, and when it did connect the program didn't find the joycon.
Edit: I got the joycon part "working" (I only got the right joycon working.) But now all I'm getting is a connection error no matter what.
Edit: I got the joycon part "working" (I only got the right joycon working.) But now all I'm getting is a connection error no matter what.
Last edited by NotXeroShi,
So I'm about to send my joycon in for repairs, I changed the color on it then used the backup for it, will they detect that it's been tampered with?
Last edited by LogicIsHansom,
Try the -f command line option
Yes you are OK. The most important things are Color and Serial.
But you used the full backup restore, so you are completely ok.
could this be used for trying to find out reasoning for Scrambled outputs? (after a flash dump that is, to pick apart if it shows anything wrong )as my Right con started acting like when i Press A,its registering A B Y, when i press Home it registers Everything on that joycon. etc. , i got a replacement (grey anyway) otw in 2 days thru amazon but restoring this would be nice since you cant easily get yer mits on the Right ( + ) Neon-Red outside buying a system.
Last edited by Dracari,
It shows up completely black or dark grey?
If it's black, it's a connection problem. Remove the device from Settings and pair again. If this doesn't work, remove it, restart and pair again.
completely black...except the buttons..now the body is set to black..that's what i want it..never tried changing that..but i can't get the grips to be anything other than the same black as the body. I'll give it another go..4th times A charm. I feel it..But just fyi..after "changing" the colors i can go on to mess with other things like the hd rumble and anything else.
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Didn't work again..More info....it shows the correct colors in the program...even when I disconnect and reconnect..But not on the console..I'm on 4.1.0 so could that be it?
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My bad. That's why. I just read the very last thing on the OP about needing to be on 5.0.0+ for that. My bad I thought I read everything I needed to read since I was using v5.2.0 of the program.
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Didn't work again..More info....it shows the correct colors in the program...even when I disconnect and reconnect..But not on the console..I'm on 4.1.0 so could that be it?
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My bad. That's why. I just read the very last thing on the OP about needing to be on 5.0.0+ for that. My bad I thought I read everything I needed to read since I was using v5.2.0 of the program.
Question - is there any way for me to restore to an older version of FW if I lost my dump?
Specifically, my right joycon isn't docking any more after the latest update. Works fine wirelessly, and also charges through the joycon rail. I also swapped shells (for the 3rd or 4th time), and after swapping decided to update the controllers when I saw there was one available. No docking after the update. I reseated that bottom ribbon cable 2-3 times, and it still charges through the rail so I think it is software, not hardware.
I created backups on the old version of the tool (1.2), and had mine. I launched the tool and didn't see a restore button, just the backup button. Thinking it would prompt me to either backup or restore i clicked that. When it gave me the dialog box about backing up and how it could take 10 minutes I 'X'd out of it instead of hitting okay, but it decided this meant to backup anyway, and overwrote my existing file.
I have S/N and Mac address still. Just wanted to try a full firmware restore to correct this refusal to dock.
Specifically, my right joycon isn't docking any more after the latest update. Works fine wirelessly, and also charges through the joycon rail. I also swapped shells (for the 3rd or 4th time), and after swapping decided to update the controllers when I saw there was one available. No docking after the update. I reseated that bottom ribbon cable 2-3 times, and it still charges through the rail so I think it is software, not hardware.
I created backups on the old version of the tool (1.2), and had mine. I launched the tool and didn't see a restore button, just the backup button. Thinking it would prompt me to either backup or restore i clicked that. When it gave me the dialog box about backing up and how it could take 10 minutes I 'X'd out of it instead of hitting okay, but it decided this meant to backup anyway, and overwrote my existing file.
I have S/N and Mac address still. Just wanted to try a full firmware restore to correct this refusal to dock.
Last edited by asting,
You can't restore the actual Firmware in Windows.
You need special tools in Linux for that.
The restore option, restore the factory configuration and user configuration.
I don't think the problem is the firmware update though.
What you need to do, is to open the controller again and reseat the flex cable connectors.
Specifically, the one near the HD rumble. I believe that the data pins are not properly seated, but the voltage pins are OK.
You need to be extra careful with these because they are fragile. Check if you broke them by mistake.
You need special tools in Linux for that.
The restore option, restore the factory configuration and user configuration.
I don't think the problem is the firmware update though.
What you need to do, is to open the controller again and reseat the flex cable connectors.
Specifically, the one near the HD rumble. I believe that the data pins are not properly seated, but the voltage pins are OK.
You need to be extra careful with these because they are fragile. Check if you broke them by mistake.
Yeah i reseated it a few times. I've given the possibility of hardware connection issue, but typically if the ribbon cable is in square and some of the functions are working it is seated properly (or there is hardware failure outside of a connection issue). Cable doesn't appear cracked/snapped from bending either.
Absolutely possible i goofed it, but I've restored maybe 50 2DS/3DS and am pretty familiar with Nintendo connections. mainboard itself seems fine, so maybe trying to source a replacement rail connector would be the best approach.
Absolutely possible i goofed it, but I've restored maybe 50 2DS/3DS and am pretty familiar with Nintendo connections. mainboard itself seems fine, so maybe trying to source a replacement rail connector would be the best approach.
I see. I said this because happened to me. For some reason the cable flexed at the connector side a little bit and lost connection, but charging was working.
And then I placed blue tag on top of the connector to keep the flap tight.
Do you have another right joy-con to test if the Switch-side rail works? Maybe there's a broken pin.
Yeah I just pulled apart for maybe the 4th time in the past two days. Looks like there is a hairline crack that's maybe a millimeter wide on the underside. I ordered a replacement rail off ebay.
I do have other joycons that are working without issue.
I am curious about the Right Joy-Con IR processing you have here. I do not have labo or 1-2 switch so I'm not sure how fast/what quality the console can typically capture at, but for those higher resolution streams is it possible to achieve a quicker poll? I tried manipulating settings like exposure, gain, de-noise, IR filter, etc. and the only thing that seemed to have a drastic effect on the frame rate was the resolution... Which is, naturally, the last thing I want to sacrifice for my purposes (interested in building a barcode capture tool for it). Not sure about the sensor register/value boxes. I'd hope for min. 4 FPS.
How much of the IR camera I/O format is really understood, at this point? I did check out the "Issue" thread on IR capture at the Reverse Engineering GitHub, however it seems you've made leaps and bounds of progress since your last message there.
How much of the IR camera I/O format is really understood, at this point? I did check out the "Issue" thread on IR capture at the Reverse Engineering GitHub, however it seems you've made leaps and bounds of progress since your last message there.
Last edited by ReavoEnd,
Yeah but I never had the time to update the info.
You can check my fork for semi written notes.
Actually internally I have decoded the whole thing.
I can tell you for sure that through HID, forget 4fps.
The only way to have more (you can even reach 60fps) is to have a custom firmware and custom mcu firmware.
So it's not possible as far as I know (haven't fully reverse engineered the latest fw though - for update 5.x.x).
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