Hacking [RCM] hekate-ipl for 5.0.x + working hb menu

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Haztel

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Stock 5.0.x is next to impossible to hack. This works because hekate is patching in at coldboot time replacement loader and sm modules from Atmosphere

hmm. I guess you could say that. Soft hacking wise, with the current knowledge we have, it is impossible to hack 5.0 for now. The workaround will work for every firmware to date though.
 

Axlfox

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hmm. I guess you could say that. Soft hacking wise, with the current knowledge we have, it is impossible to hack 5.0 for now. The workaround will work for every firmware to date though.
Speaking of which, one last question tho, does the paperclip method work with any kind of paperclip? or does it have to be an exclusively 3D printed one?
 

Haztel

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Speaking of which, one last question tho, does the paperclip method work with any kind of paperclip? or does it have to be an exclusively 3D printed one?

doesn't even have to be a paperclip anything conductive that grounds the two pins.
 

sj33

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I do recommend getting a jig at some point though because it's just so easy. Slot it in, press buttons, pull it out.
 

Dread_Pirate_PJ

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Last edited by Dread_Pirate_PJ,
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TheHomesk1llet

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you could just solder a wire between the test pins on the joycon mainboard like i did. super easy, as shown in this pic

although if you're not using a micro switch or something to ground the joycons only when you wanna enter rcm mode, the joycon only works in wireless mode.
 
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richyawy

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Hello everyone, this is a fork of hekate-ipl I made that works on 5.0.x.
You can get it from https://github.com/Jan4V/hekate-ipl-50x/releases/tag/v1.0.0
Source: https://github.com/Jan4V/hekate-ipl-50x

Proof video:

But yeah, one thing has to be said:
DONT UPGRADE TO 5.0.X for this, really don't please. It's not worth it. Wait for proper Atmosphere which will be 100x better.

Also please don't ask anyone for support, this is just a temporary fix before real stuff comes out.

Also an important thing - credits:
Most importantly - naehrwert - for making hekate-ipl (this is just a small modification in keygen and secmon patches)
Atmosphere team - for the Loader and SM kernel module reimplementations
Switchbrew/hbmenu team - for the nx_hbloader and nx_hbmenu projects


Hey,

A fair few Samsung micro SD cards refuse to mount due to the differing voltage they run at. There's a fix in this hekate branch here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/rcm-payload-hekate-mod-raw-full-nand-backup.502604/

Any chance of this fix being added to yours? I have 5.0.2 and 256gb Samsung SD I'd very much like to use.

Not sure if atmosphere already has the fix or not.
 
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NekoMichi

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EDIT:
It was ExFAT causing issues. If in doubt, use FAT32.

Original post:
I'm having a few read/write issues with homebrew, can someone please check/confirm my hunch?

I set up the SD contents on my PC, with a /switch/ folder containing the Checkpoint .nro file, then copied it to two consoles:

- Switch running 4.x, 32GB FAT32 micro SD card
- Switch running 5.x, 128GB ExFAT micro SD card

I then launched the appropriate version of Hekate (the one from this thread for the 5.x console, the one from the 4.x thread for the 4.x console), achieving different results.

- On the 4.x console, HB menu loads successfully and I was able to launch Checkpoint and backup my saves.
- On the 5.x console, HB menu loads successfully, however it fails to detect the /switch/ folder at all.

For the 5.x console, I bypassed this initial issue by renaming Checkpoint.nro to hbmenu.nro and moving it to the root of the SD card. Checkpoint then launches successfully, but whenever I try to backup any save it will trigger the generic system error message and prompt me to shut down.

Checkpoint failed to write the folders used for save backup, so I manually added those and tried again, this time either I get a message saying that saves were successfully backed up, or the same error message prompting me to power down. Either way, no saves were dumped to the folders I made.

It seems that on the 5.x console, homebrew can read NAND, but is unable to read any content from the SD card, and any attempt to write to the SD card will cause an error.

I can fathom that this is due to two possible issues:
- Homebrew simply isn't running normally on 5.x because it's still early stages and errors are to be expected.
- Homebrew is having trouble working with ExFAT SD cards.

Currently I'm leaning towards scenario #2, but what do you think? I'm going to re-run this test with a FAT32 card instead, after work today.
 
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Reecey

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That's not what you did. You bent the pins. I'm talking about soldering the TEST PADS above the PINS on the Right Joycon. That's completely safe. Look at the picture that I attached:

View attachment 122971
Can anyone else. confirm this method works in the img for the mod because I have never heard of it or can I google it? He’s saying you can solder the two end test pads together or use a wire maybe, it’s above the pins it’s under the black sponge on the rail.
 
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NekoMichi

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Can anyone else. confirm this method works in the img for the mod because I have never heard of it or can I google it? He’s saying you can solder the two end test pads together or use a wire maybe, it’s above the pins it’s under the black sponge on the rail.
Soldering pads for 9 and 10 will work if you re-assemble the full Joy-Con along with the main board circuitry. If you just want to use the rail part, you'll need to bridge pad 7 to 10.
 
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Reecey

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Soldering pads for 9 and 10 will work if you re-assemble the full Joy-Con along with the main board circuitry. If you just want to use the rail part, you'll need to bridge pad 7 to 10.
So if I solder a small piece of wire between the two he’s circled in the picture that will 100% work? You might need to zoom in on the picture to see the circled pads properly. The reason I’m asking this I have a brand new right assembly rail in front of me now and I was going to solder a small wire between the two he’s circled but I want to make sure it works.. I’m sure if I heat the solder pads up again I can drop a wire between the two connecting them both.

You say pads 7 & 10 are they the ones he’s circled in the photo or 9 & 10? I am connecting the joy con back together fully?

I was going to drop a wire in it, it looks to close to the other pads to drop solder between the two to connect, just in case I catch the other pad that’s very close to pad 10.

What’s the best way to get the black sponge off? Tried tweezers not working it seems very stubborn.
 
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Reecey

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Not sure what you mean by gargabe, as I’ve been using a similar tool for the past 25 years without any issue. And before that, my father and uncle used the same type of tool. Solder pumps have been tried and tested for the past 50 years, so I’ll assume you’re doing something very wrong with it.
Solder suckers work a treat I have one myself and used one for years on fruit machines. I can assure everyone that will work a treat to get your solder off and they work well!
 

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