Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

FRITZINATOR

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I was wondering if anyone could help? the extension I got with Wiggy is too large to fit into the PCB. As you can see in the picture its about a millimeter or two too wide to fit. I ordered for a 32 pin GBA, did I just get the wrong part or did I screw up somewhere?
 

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Nusdogg

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I was wondering if anyone could help? the extension I got with Wiggy is too large to fit into the PCB. As you can see in the picture its about a millimeter or two too wide to fit. I ordered for a 32 pin GBA, did I just get the wrong part or did I screw up somewhere?

Yup. You got the wrong one. Looks like the cable ribbon is for a 40 pin version. Hit him up with picture.
 

Pepepuhn

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Hi everyone,

Because of this thread, I decided to mod my AGB-001.
So I ordered cable and screen from zerey via Zarmark.

But now there are two of those "agents" from Taobao seller, who want to talk me out of buying said products.
They say, that both cable and screen probably will be damaged while being transported. Even if they "have a good package".
I live in Germany and already paid for screen and cable.

Has anyone else had problems with damaged items from zerey, ordered via Zarmark?
Should I back off from the deal?

I also tried to find an AGS-101 in order to use it's screen. But working AGS-101s are really costly.
So I think best would be, if I buy some broken AGS-101s.
Is there a way to check if the display is still working without having it to solder on my AGB-001?

Thanks for your help.
 

GBA rocks

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I also tried to find an AGS-101 in order to use it's screen. But working AGS-101s are really costly.
So I think best would be, if I buy some broken AGS-101s.

The easiest way to mod an AGS-001 into an AGS-101 is to just swap the whole motherboard + screen, like in this video:




So you could buy an AGS-101 in bad cosmetic conditions (on the plastic case) but with a working motherboard and screen.
To find it at a fair price you have to be a bit patient, every now and again one pops up in Europe on ebay (I've recently bought one from Belgium for 48€ shipped). Still pricey but better than 80€ shipped, a more common price on ebay EU.
I've also bought one from Canada for 37€ shipped once.


ps: it is a good time to reiterate that genuine AGS-101 screens are BETTER than Zerey's/aftermarket LCDs, so yes, my advice is to just back off from the deal, get you money back and buy an AGS-101. As shown in the video, you don't even need the cable or soldering, just swap the motherboards.
 

Pepepuhn

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The easiest way to mod an AGS-001 into an AGS-101 is to just swap the whole motherboard + screen, like in this video:

So you could buy an AGS-101 in bad cosmetic conditions (on the plastic case) but with a working motherboard and screen.
To find it at a fair price you have to be a bit patient, every now and again one pops up in Europe on ebay (I've recently bought one from Belgium for 48€ shipped). Still pricey but better than 80€ shipped, a more common price on ebay EU.
I've also bought one from Canada for 37€ shipped once.


ps: it is a good time to reiterate that genuine AGS-101 screens are BETTER than Zerey's/aftermarket LCDs, so yes, my advice is to just back off from the deal, get you money back and buy an AGS-101. As shown in the video, you don't even need the cable or soldering, just swap the motherboards.


Oh snap. I didn't mean AGS-001. I meant AGB-001.
I edited my post from above accordingly. Sorry.
 

Nusdogg

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Would i be able to just Switch the Screen & Motherboard from a AGS-101 to a regular GBA????

The AGS-101 motherboard, no. The AGS-101 backlit LCD screen, yes, but it will require you to trim the inside to be able to fit the LCD screen flat and you'll need the correct custom ribbon cable adapter from Zerey to be able to use the AGS-101 screen with the AGB-001 motherboard.
 

rs1n

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ps: it is a good time to reiterate that genuine AGS-101 screens are BETTER than Zerey's/aftermarket LCDs, so yes, my advice is to just back off from the deal, get you money back and buy an AGS-101. As shown in the video, you don't even need the cable or soldering, just swap the motherboards.

I think we need to clarify what "better" means. Right now, I have yet to see a valid test that confirms that any particular screen is inferior or superior -- we only have anecdotal evidence which do not account for many factors. Whether you use Zerey's screens, a real AGS screen, or something you picked from who-knows-where, the difference in screen output is regulated by one of two solder points on the original GBA (AGB-001). Here's how two screens even from Nintendo itself could behave differently:

Each screen has a voltage line which regulates the brightness of the screen. Screen A could be such that its voltage range is from X to Y. Screen B might be such that its voltage range is X+2 to Y+2. These are perfectly within an acceptable range from a manufacturer's point of view. Now, install these two screens in a system in which there is a fixed voltage and you can see why one screen may appear to be "inferior" than the other even though both would work perfectly well -- one just needs to be set at +2 higher than the other. Then there is the actual voltage coming from the solder points themselves, which may or may not be exactly the same across all AGB-001 units. After all, there are several versions of the motherboard (in particular 40 vs 32 pin LCD connectors).

There is also a potentiometer which affects the voltage difference of a screen, which can affect the crispness of the screen output. Those who do not know exactly how the potential difference works could very well be getting a "poor" display on one screen, and yet the same voltage difference could be the perfect setting for another screen. I have had two AGB-001 units where swapping their screens actually caused both of them to have "bad" displays and yet the look perfectly fine when returned to their respective motherboards.

So while your particular experience may be that screen A is better than screen B, it may not necessarily be true for everyone. There are people who report differences in quality even between two different AGS-101 screens, both pulled from GBA SP units.
 
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skrble

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I would say that the color is the main difference, maybe there will be a few more scratches on the white one?
 

Cartmanuk

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I have just done 2 GBA Back-lit consoles as I had about 20 old GBA's laying around and my wife tells me I have to sell my 'Junk' well there not junk anymore.

I may consider selling 1 of these but what are they worth?
 

hbk007

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I think we need to clarify what "better" means. Right now, I have yet to see a valid test that confirms that any particular screen is inferior or superior -- we only have anecdotal evidence which do not account for many factors. Whether you use Zerey's screens, a real AGS screen, or something you picked from who-knows-where, the difference in screen output is regulated by one of two solder points on the original GBA (AGB-001). Here's how two screens even from Nintendo itself could behave differently:

I noticed there is a difference in color and contrast between the LCDs with AB connector and ones with B connector. On my Gameboy SP with the B type, the colors are accurate and contrast is perfect.
On another Gameboy SP with an AB screen, I noticed the colors are not as good. I swapped it out with Zereys screen, which also has an AB connector, and the colors and contrast are just as bad as the other AB screen.
It seems that Nintendo skimped or used different manufacturers, possibly to cut costs.
 

VincentBeasley

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Ok so I have a question. So I bought an original AGB-001 Model modded with a 32-pin AGS-101 back lite screen from Ebay but the screen brightness is really dim. There is no brightness switch installed and no wires soldered inside. Is there a way to manually adjust the brightness? (Oh and I already know about adjusting the pot and it doesn't help.)
 

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