Gaming Question about Jtag and stuf

nico445

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tk_saturn said:
nico445 said:
soo is that a easy firmware fix or does it need to be soldered in a other way? sorry kinda a noob with all the nand stufff
tongue.gif
It's easy enough, provided you have an original NAND Dump. You won't need to resolder, provided you configure the SMC for your wiring (ARGON_DATA, AUD_CLAMP, HDMI or TRAY_OPEN). Download fbBuild 0.11 and extract, use iBuild (from freeBoot 0.32) to extract your original NAND image to the temp directory. You then run SMC_UTIL on the smc.bin and it will patch the SMC. You then copy the 11 needed files from the temp directory into the data directory and build using fbBuild. Then flash the new image using Xellous.

You can set the console to ignore the play and change kit and power off when the console is shutdown, or you can set it to behave like a retail console and power off once the controller is fully charged.

It's meant to be a little problematic with Xenon's that have SMC version 1.50, flashtool 0.97 will tell you what version SMC you have. He's working on a fix for Xenon 1.50's

The thread is here http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=16095.0 but you'll have to register to view it. You can download SMC_UTIL from http://www.megaupload.com/?d=VV9FJ841
thanks man , going to try it out tomorrow
 

tk_saturn

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Youkai said:
XD dunno what hit my had i wanted to write 230V
didn't know europ had all the same, only knew that america has way less Volt

I have no clue ...
I ask you, do i need one ?

like i said i have actually nothing and I want to play games ... and if possible not only originals cuz some imports are very expensive and that for a game i can't understand ....

I'll see if I can dig out the European power lead and photograph it. I think it's an European lead,

If you're not familar with JTAG's, you probably need to research them. I don't know if they play retail discs from other regions without the drive flashed. However, even if they games don't run without the drives firmware flashed, you will still be able to install them to the HDD and play them from the HDD. I know games run from the HDD are region free, with the exception of a couple of games (which are taken care of by DashLaunch 2.07). Most people just download games and then install them to the HDD and then launch them from the HDD, even my own retail games I have installed to the HDD. This is especially true with the Japanese games, I have the Japanese Otomedius Gorgeous on mine...

Most people who want bare consoles, already have an X360 and so have everything they need. If you don't already have an X360, you really need a complete console. You'll also need a X360 hard drive of some description, you can use 16GB from a USB drive but it's not really enough unless you aren't planning to use DLC.

One of the main features of a JTAG is being able to install games to the HDD and then run them without the disc inserted.

With JTAG's, you can store games in a GOD (Game on Demand) format on the HDD. This can be done by using ISO2GOD on your PC which will convert ISOs and then FTP them to the console's HDD if you have it plugged into your router. You can also use the "Install to HDD" option on the retail dashboard which like retail consoles will install the game to the attached HDD but will still require the disc present in order to start the game. You can then run NXE2GOD (homebrew) which will convert them into a GOD so you no longer need the disc inserted to start the game, hence why JTAG's are very popular with people who rent games. GOD games appear in the official dashboard's Library/ quicklaunch/ recently played like any NXE game.

Another method is to extract the files so you end up with the raw Xex files. People do that when they want to mod games. Those can only be run through an alternative dashboard such as FreeStyleDash or XeXMenu.

The Kinect Dash will only see GOD games on the internal drive or the 16GB reserved area of a USB drive, while the alternative dashboards such as FreeStyleDash can load them from a FAT32 external USB HDD. On a JTAG you can replace the Microsoft Official SATA drive with one of any size. DLC always has to be on the internal HDD while XBLA is the same as GOD games, as in it needs to be on the internal Sata drive for it to appear in the official dashboard but can be anywhere on a USB drive if you use FSD.


That really leaves 5 options:
  • Use an USB external drive formatted to FAT32. In the Kinect dash reserve 16GB for console use (you don't get that full 16GB, as the console reserves a reasonable amount for it's own use. 16GB is the maximum you can reserve). This 16GB reserved area will actually be a set of hidden files in a hidden "Xbox360" directory in the root of the drive. You can then use the 16GB for DLC, and copy GOD/ XBLA to anywhere else on the drive. However 16GB is very limited for DLC, especially after the console itself takes a chuck of that. On a 20GB HDD, you end up with ~13GB useable free space.
  • Use a 60GB/ 120GB Microsoft drive for your DLC and use an external USB drive for your XBLA/ GOD games. You'll have to use FSD2 to play the XBLA/ GODs.
  • Use a 250GB drive for both, be limited with what you can install.
  • Get a 20GB Microsoft Drive, rip out the drive and replace it with a 500GB/ 640GB/ 750GB/ 1TB Laptop 2.5" Drive (JTAG's aren't limited to 250GB drives). 1TB 2.5" drives are larger than normal laptop drives as they have an additional platter (a platter is a disk inside the HDD, HDD's normally have multiple platters per drive), you should be able to fit them if you remove the metal enclosure from the caddy but it's tight. That may also be true for some 750GB drives, it varies drive to drive depending on how many platters they use (newer drives = higher area density = few platters to reach a given drive capacity)
  • Get a 20GB Microsoft Drive, rip out the drive, get a Sata extension cable and plug in a 1TB/1.5TB/2TB 3.5" Sata Desktop drive. Because Desktop drives use 12V (laptpo drives use 5V) It will need to be powered externally. This isn't an issue with drives in an eSata enclosure as they come with their own PSU's. For a bare drive you can gut an XBOX360 'Intercooler' and power it via that. Intercoolers piggyback into the XBOX's power socket and take power directly from the PSU, if you remove the piggyback adapter from the intercooler you can wire up the 12V+ & ground to a Sata power connector and use that to power the drive.
A fully set up and configured JTAG is very easy to use, they can even rip their own games.

The problem you have is when people supply them bare console, many don't include the original NAND or XeXmenu on Disc. New owners then power them on and it boots to the retail dash just like a retail console, and they don't have a clue what to next. It is possible to download XeXmenu from Xbins and burn to a disc, you can then launch that on the console and FTP FSD2.0 to the HDD from your PC. You then need to use quickboot on your PC to create an entry for FSD2 in the Kinect Dash. You also need to configure DashLaunch so FSD2 is either loaded by default or loaded when a specific button on the controller is held down. Once installed, FSD2 auto updates and will automatically download game covers/ screenshots, all you have to is tell it where your games are. However, don't buy a console unless it comes with the original NAND.

You may need the original NAND for future rebooter updates, a lot of people with older JTAG's have had trouble updating their consoles because they don't have the original NAND. If the drive is flashed, it's also handy if comes with a copy of the drives original firmware. A lot of people were also having problems when LT+ was released as they didn't have a copy of their original firmware, and likewise when LT+1.1 was released just recently.
 

FAST6191

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No love for quickboot http://www.xbins.org/nfo.php?file=xboxnfo1773.nfo tk_saturn? Also didn't xextool get updated for the new region locks at one point?

I will have to look into this new SMC stuff as well (I have a USB controller as my primary* and a USB port on my PC which is 0.3m away and can quite easily pull the cable before power down but still)- I noticed the other day I can do the "new console setup" on autopilot and that is not a skill I am proud of.

Also although it has already been solved (and it might be a bit of a lowball) the latter price is one I would be looking for at least a JTAG jasper for (maybe not at this point in time but 10 months ago perhaps even the kind of price I would want a fully kitted one for). Good to know there are reballing places around though.

Re RRoD JTAG boards- I was under the impression most people after these were more out there for the key vault (especially considering they go for silly prices nowadays) rather than the possibility of creating a working JTAG board.


*I fixed it years ago and have been using it ever since but has anyone else seen a broken wired controller where an internal wire snapped about 70mm up from the controller?
 

tk_saturn

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Not really a fan of quickboot. From what I gather you have to either select USB or HDD. However there's a version out there works for both at the same time (giving priority to the HDD if the same file exists on on both the HDD and USB), but i've not been able to find it and that's annoyed me. I only have Quickboot entries for FSD1.2/FSD2/NXE2GOD/XM360/FBANext rather than the games themselves (I use GODs instead)

If you have 200+ XBLA games, i'm not sure it's realistic to manually create an entry for each game. I gather you'll also need to use XeXTool to extract the game icon too. I'd prefer to get a bigger SATA drive than creating 200+ quickboot entries. If you then want to swap games, you'll need to do it again. To me it's just not realistic except for homebrew/ emulators.

There is a new version of XeXTool, but i've only used it with ISO2GOD. The current version of ISO2GOD requires you replace the supplied XeXTool with the updated version, and that's only how i've used it. I stick to GOD containers myself, as modding games doesn't interest me they suit more uses better. So XeXTool isn't something i've needed to use and i'm not going to comment on something I don't use myself.

No, the only use for RROD consoles now is for reballing/ reflowing/ spare parts. It's not something I do myself, but I gather than can be picked up for around £15-£25 in bulk, and then reballed/ reflowed. Then they either flash the drives or JTAG them, making a hefty profit. Keyvaults at the moment are worth nothing, JTAG's have been completly stopped from going on XBOX Live. I don't know what took Microsoft so long, the modders harmed XBOX Live and they should have put a lot more effort into stopping the JTAGs going on Live. Since they were stopped; the price of Xenon's, favourite of the game modders/ cheaters has massively fallen in price. Even if a keyvault has been decrypted, since the new dash/ freeBoot 0.04/ AP25X they are useless without the CPU Key. The NAND needs to be built with the Keyvault's CPU Key, even if the keyvault isn't from your own console.

The Germany seller is charging way to much for a Xenon, and fair to much for a HDMI console without stating which revision the console is, the JTAG method used, if U6T2 is bridged, if the DashBoard is freeBoot 0.04 or freeBoot 0.04(1) and not stating if they supply a copy of the original NAND/ drive Firmware or XeXMenu on Disc. Most online retailers want too much, I sold a guy a Zephyr for £130. Before it even arrived he had it on his website for £250...

I gather reballing doesn't permantly fix the RROD issue, it's likely the RROD will happen again at some point in the future especially on Xenon's which haven't had the GPU Heatsink replaced with the enhanced version from a late Zephyr/ Falcon/ Jasper. If the cause was simply down to the type of solder used, if would have been quickly solved as the RROD issue cost Microsoft a lot of money. Even on Zephyr's/ Falcon's they experimented by having some consoles with pads on the bottom RAM IC's, and a small number of Falcon's came without X-Clamps. The GPU issues were only really resolved with the Jasper and it's 65nm GPU, so was always likely to be a combination of issues.

If you take a Xenon for example those extreme 110C/ 117C temperatures aren't good for a GPU, especially one fabbed by TMSC and certainly not for long term use. The best solution to RROD has always been... get a Jasper, although I'd be content with a Falcon which has it's fans tweaked from new. I wouldn't touch a Xenon with a bargepole regardless if it's been reballed or not. The Zephyr... well that came in a Halo 3 case I wanted for my Jasper.

As for the SMC, I use on my console and it works well, I can now use my Play and Charge kit again. It includes a few other fixes too, and is specific to your console. Most people are unknowingly using Jasper SMCs (V2.3) for their Falcons and Zephyrs.
 

Youkai

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Ok if I understand correct, the "best" way would be hardmodding the console "again" after your jtag to install a bigger sized harddisk.

Well installing the games on that hdd sounds really good but i am not sure ... how "easy" is it to do this ? I am completely no hardware person, i am more into softmodding and such.

so I think best would be to have the drive flashed as well so that i can play burned games.


(i know its hard to talk to a noob so thanks for your effort)
 

nico445

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Youkai said:
Ok if I understand correct, the "best" way would be hardmodding the console "again" after your jtag to install a bigger sized harddisk.

Well installing the games on that hdd sounds really good but i am not sure ... how "easy" is it to do this ? I am completely no hardware person, i am more into softmodding and such.

so I think best would be to have the drive flashed as well so that i can play burned games.


(i know its hard to talk to a noob so thanks for your effort)
well jtag is the easiest way to install games, at first with my external harddrive i just had to extract the isos and throw them on the drive.
yesterday i finally switched over to a 500 GB interal drive, building it was a pain because the chinese case sucked really hard
tongue.gif

after that i had it boot into freestyle dash so ISO2GOD could upload every game to the HDD. takes a small time to figure it out. but once you
learned it it's easy
tongue.gif
 

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