i have 3 nintendo units all have the same problem
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Actually, I've often installed picofly, maybe 30 units already, but this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this
Picofly AIO Thread
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Actually, I've often installed picofly, maybe 30 units already, but this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this
Not only that, as it for all issue affected by signal interference (bsod, wake from sleep crash, etc..)
It can be also from cable/wire quality or placement or on how you choose 3.3v and ground point.
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Final suggestion, please try use another new pico board. Or better try to use normal Pi Pico, the ones with green pcb, as with that it never failed me yet.
Thank you for the info. I will try adding resistor and changing GND point using thicker cable.
Also please try to remove dat0 adapter if you use one, and see whether on OFW you can see sdcard now.
I always use Pi Pico boards but sometimes they fail, how you can manage to cut them in size? I use boxcutter to make a grove than snap. I think when I snapped the excess it may cause problem with board or main IC.
Hi,
I am getting screen flickering, slow performance and black lines when I boot to the CFW or OFW on a switch oled. Overall its glitchy and slow, but works fine in Hekate.
I installed the picofly and when I was installing it I noticed that, with the multimeter in Diode Mode, I was getting ~0.355v from the CPU. I am using a V2 ribbon cable from the Hwfly modchip. Could this be the issue?
I am getting screen flickering, slow performance and black lines when I boot to the CFW or OFW on a switch oled. Overall its glitchy and slow, but works fine in Hekate.
I installed the picofly and when I was installing it I noticed that, with the multimeter in Diode Mode, I was getting ~0.355v from the CPU. I am using a V2 ribbon cable from the Hwfly modchip. Could this be the issue?
Just a friendly reminder that there is no need to double post especially on the threads that are as active as these ones, it's pretty much the same people on both sides.
Regarding your issue, pictures of installation would be helpful
Hi I just flashed 2.74 fw and when I connect to pc it flash blue then two yellow flashes every 5 seconds or so. Is it correctly flashed?
I use metal saw, its easier.
Also regarding why not use zero, at least for me the trimming process is faster than usb c removal.
.. easier brute force againts delicate.Also its cheaper here. Also my first mod is with pi pico, so first love? stay with what works.
Yes, thats correct. Just dont desolder the usb port until you can glitch, removal can be done on the finishing step of mod.
I removed DAT0 adapter and everything no sd on OFW. Here is picture of sd card connector.
If it can not access sd card how the hell it can boot hekate. I am loosing it…
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Last edited by TheBad,
Can you try another module? or try this module on another unit.
As i suspect the male conector in sdcard module is easier to get issue.
@LuigiGad , premi sullo spoiler per leggere
Ti scrivo in italiano, essendo di Pompei, magari in inglese tradotto non mi spiego bene.
Ne ho installati 15 ad oggi (picofly), funzionano tutti, questo stesso ha funzionato.
Ora avvia in OFW, senza motivo. Chiedevo quali potessero essere le cause proprio in virtù delle installazioni precedente con esito positivo (di cui un OLED modificata con reball su dat0).
Non ho nessun dubbio sul progetto picofly, anzi.
Ho dubbi sulla combinazione FW rp2040, hardware rp2040 (varie versioni) e hardware switch (non tutte uguali al 100%) e efficienza/modalità di installazione).
Questa combinazione di variabili potrebbe dare risultati diversi per ogni installazione, sia in caso di successo, che in caso di insuccesso.
Spero sia stato abbastanza chiaro.
In tutti i casìi riavrò la console settimana prossima e sostituerò il chip rp2040 con un altro con fw 2.67, ho già risolto un altro caso proprio in questo modo (già scritto nei post precedenti).
Inoltre installerò l'rp2040 estratto in un altra switch e resterò il comportamento.
Ne ho installati 15 ad oggi (picofly), funzionano tutti, questo stesso ha funzionato.
Ora avvia in OFW, senza motivo. Chiedevo quali potessero essere le cause proprio in virtù delle installazioni precedente con esito positivo (di cui un OLED modificata con reball su dat0).
Non ho nessun dubbio sul progetto picofly, anzi.
Ho dubbi sulla combinazione FW rp2040, hardware rp2040 (varie versioni) e hardware switch (non tutte uguali al 100%) e efficienza/modalità di installazione).
Questa combinazione di variabili potrebbe dare risultati diversi per ogni installazione, sia in caso di successo, che in caso di insuccesso.
Spero sia stato abbastanza chiaro.
In tutti i casìi riavrò la console settimana prossima e sostituerò il chip rp2040 con un altro con fw 2.67, ho già risolto un altro caso proprio in questo modo (già scritto nei post precedenti).
Inoltre installerò l'rp2040 estratto in un altra switch e resterò il comportamento.
ENGLISH
I am writing to you in Italian, being from Pompeii, perhaps in translated English I don't explain myself well.
I've installed 15 of them to date, they all work, this one did itself.
Now boot into OFW, for no reason. I was wondering what could be the causes precisely by virtue of the previous successful installations (of which a modified OLED with reball on dat0).
I have no doubts about the picofly project, on the contrary.
I have doubts about the combination of rp2040 FW, rp2040 hardware (various versions) and switch hardware (not all 100% the same). and installation mode efficiency).
This combination of variables could give different results for each installation, both in case of success and in case of failure.
I hope that was clear enough.
In all cases I will get the console back next week and by replacing the rp2040 chip with another one with fw 2.67, I have already solved another case in this way (already written in previous posts).
Also I will install the extracted rp2040 in another switch and keep the behavior.
Last edited by cicci084,
How many responses have ya got so far and see any patterns emerging thus far? GRrrrrrrrrrreat work btw
hi all:
theres some updates on my lite with purple screen case:
1. i decided to restart all the picofly installation. i spend A LOT of time doing it, because the very little space between pins (CMD, CLK is a hell to solder), and i used an alterative pin the DAT0 pin. 3.3V, GND and RST are a little bit easier (but tough still).
2. after installation, i turned on the console, and the purple screen changed to the nintendo logo (great news, the cpu/ram are alive), but then black screen.
3. checking the picofly itself, i have 3 yellow leds: 1 short and 2 long, that means:
*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)
4. after that, i unsoldered GND and 3.3V. then test again and purple screen again
maybe i should try to redo the installation with shorted wires? or thinner ones? i bought very thin copper wire, but it'll be more diificult to manipulate (i think); apart of that i picofly'ed an erista v1 with the SAME wires that i used on the lite and no problems
please see the attached pictures. the installation is a mess because i'm focused on fix the purple screen issue first. any information or experiences with purple screens can be very helpful!
thanks!
theres some updates on my lite with purple screen case:
1. i decided to restart all the picofly installation. i spend A LOT of time doing it, because the very little space between pins (CMD, CLK is a hell to solder), and i used an alterative pin the DAT0 pin. 3.3V, GND and RST are a little bit easier (but tough still).
2. after installation, i turned on the console, and the purple screen changed to the nintendo logo (great news, the cpu/ram are alive), but then black screen.
3. checking the picofly itself, i have 3 yellow leds: 1 short and 2 long, that means:
*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)
4. after that, i unsoldered GND and 3.3V. then test again and purple screen again
maybe i should try to redo the installation with shorted wires? or thinner ones? i bought very thin copper wire, but it'll be more diificult to manipulate (i think); apart of that i picofly'ed an erista v1 with the SAME wires that i used on the lite and no problems
please see the attached pictures. the installation is a mess because i'm focused on fix the purple screen issue first. any information or experiences with purple screens can be very helpful!
thanks!
Attachments
Last edited by dmrojasc,
im sure if you detach the wire on cmd resistor on mainboard it will be still purple screen. those point is dangerous. just by soldering it you can make those resistor not connected to mainboard resulting purple screen.hi all:
theres some updates on my lite with purple screen case:
1. i decided to restart all the picofly installation. i spend A LOT of time doing it, because the very little space between pins (CMD, CLK is a hell to solder), and i used an alterative pin the DAT0 pin. 3.3V, GND and RST are a little bit easier (but tough still).
2. after installation, i turned on the console, and the purple screen changed to the nintendo logo (great news, the cpu/ram are alive), but then black screen.
3. checking the picofly itself, i have 3 yellow leds: 1 short and 2 long, that means:
*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)
4. after that, i unsoldered GND and 3.3V. then test again and purple screen again
maybe i should try to redo the installation with shorted wires? or thinner ones? i bought very thin copper wire, but it'll be more diificult to manipulate (i think); apart of that i picofly'ed an erista v1 with the SAME wires that i used on the lite and no problems
please see the attached pictures. the installation is a mess because i'm focused on fix the purple screen issue first. any information or experiences with purple screens can be very helpful!
thanks!
Please use cmd point near the emmc as ussual.
Only alternate D0 is safe to work on.
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For black after nintendo logo please check D0 short with nearby. If not then try to add another resistor on D0 and see what happens.
Haven't checked yet as I've been busy, will probably check tomorrow morning
edit: So just checked, 7 responses.
So far the most common factors are;
- Switch Lite - (57.1%)
- Rp2040-zero/one - (85.7%)
- Mosfet install - (71.4%)
- Dual Mosfet - (60%)
- Most Common Mosfet - IRFHS8342
- No SCA/SLC - (100%)
- Memory - Toshiba/skhynix (42.9%)
- 47Ohm Resistors - (71.4%)
- Blue Screen - (57.1%)
- Console worked before closing - (57.1%)
Last edited by Adran_Marit,
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