link?In aliexpress they already sold it again. I have checked it and its correct 47 ohms. So they revised it all last week
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thank you. do you think its worth the price tag of almost $10 each?
Wow, thank you so much for the information! Wondering if anyone else might happen to know what the last resistor (capacitor?)'s value is (referring to my original post's image)? I'll definitely place the order and give it a try as soon as I figure that out
Random, because someone told me to test some flex cable.
I always choose the lowest cost
I am not professional modder. Just some hack hobbyst. So lot the thing i experiment is on my own device. Some device i sold, but its not like as fast as possible. but just for fun. Every device i worked on, not based on somekind of time target. But more like, i have an idea, and want to apply it. Something like that. Until now only 5 device i modded. All single mosfet and flex. Never do dual mosfet.
ok I added the 2 cables (sda to pin 12 and scl to pin 13) but I still get (after a long-ish blue blue on-dim sequence) the three yellow lights code:
=** eMMC init failure during glitch process
Any ideas what might be wrong?
oh alright. i just started doing it as a side hustle. i do console repairs as well. not on a professional level though. still new within the last 2 years.Random, because someone told me to test some flex cable.
I always choose the lowest cost
I am not professional modder. Just some hack hobbyst. So lot the thing i experiment is on my own device. Some device i sold, but its not like as fast as possible. but just for fun. Every device i worked on, not based on somekind of time target. But more like, i have an idea, and want to apply it. Something like that. Until now only 5 device i modded. All single mosfet and flex. Never do dual mosfet.
What size wire are you using for single mosfet?
Warning about those.
I was getting really weird error codes flashing (Like *== which isn't even one) and it would constantly change. The ribbon cable is hard to connect because it doesn't make a good enough connection and when you move you can easily disconnect it. Honestly I probably failed flashing it when I moved.
I replaced just the modchip and it all went away.
Yes and the issues went away. Again i am pretty sure it was just flashed incorrectly due to the ribbon cable not making a solid enough connection
First I've heard of it? I think "usually" might be overselling it?
Just try to press reset button on the rp2040 when joycon logo shows. Or use SDA and SCL wires.
Edit: I fixed two switches with this issue by placing SDA and SCL wire.
...and now I start panicking...
I removed the picofly completely and the switch is dead! I tried the 20 seconds then short press power button (or 5 sec press) but it is still in black screen..
Any ideas what I can do to bring it back to life? Or is it completely dead and I should leave it?
I removed the picofly completely and the switch is dead! I tried the 20 seconds then short press power button (or 5 sec press) but it is still in black screen..
Any ideas what I can do to bring it back to life? Or is it completely dead and I should leave it?
Similar threads
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Xdqwerty:
@BakerMan, iirc it was about a news article about princess peach showtime using the word "sus" unironically -
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realtimesave:
Nintendo needs to release a new console, switch is getting such shitty little games lately lol it's pathetic -
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