Picofly AIO Thread

QuiTim

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some oleds' silver screws are getting stripped. Seemingly some units have very tight screws. Anybody experience this? how to avoid screws in the metal plate and motherboard getting stripped?
Just need to use perfect fit screwdriver not just some cheap one that "fits ok"
Try something like this (I know it's expensive but they last a lifetime)
https://amzn.eu/d/gLk2BmC
 
Last edited by QuiTim,
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QuiTim

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i use the xioami hardened screws i will look for better one...
They use Japanese standard of philips screws so if you wanna be 100% you need to use a JIS screwdriver (it should be 2mm but not sure of the size)
 

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MegaDeKay

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Just need to use perfect fit screwdriver not just some cheap one that "fits ok"
Try something like this (I know it's expensive but they last a lifetime)
https://amzn.eu/d/gLk2BmC
I wouldn't recommend this kit. The screws inside the switch are JIS-type as noted below. The PH screwdrivers in this kit could potentially strip the screws.
They use Japanese standard of philips screws so if you wanna be 100% you need to use a JIS screwdriver (it should be 2mm but not sure of the size)

The size is JIS 000 as noted in this iFixit guide. I have the iFixit screwdriver set that includes JIS-type ends and they work really well. But you can also buy a JIS-only set for less money if JIS is the only type you are missing. They aren't easy to find though.
 

karatefeet

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No - still can't get in to Hekate - but I'm now suspecting resistor values on D0/CLK/CMD.

That was just confirming that the diode specs don't matter too much.
I have the same issue - lite with BSOD, get No SD screen but won’t boot hekate. FWIW I measured diode values of DO/CLK/CMD/RST with a working lite and they were the same. I haven’t had time to investigate further so following your progress. Hopefully we can figure it out.
 

cgtchy0412

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I have the same issue - lite with BSOD, get No SD screen but won’t boot hekate. FWIW I measured diode values of DO/CLK/CMD/RST with a working lite and they were the same. I haven’t had time to investigate further so following your progress. Hopefully we can figure it out.
Try to double/triple the resistor on Dat0. Also test if you detach Dat0 its boot into ofw or not, i mean boots until home and test the wake from sleep also.
 
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karatefeet

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Try to double/triple the resistor on Dat0. Also test if you detach Dat0 its boot into ofw or not, i mean boots until home and test the wake from sleep also.
I’ve removed all the wires and mosfet. no lifted pads and still get blue screen immediately. I’m thinking it could’ve been bad firmware on the rp as I downloaded the first 2.72 version or bad soldering on the cpu caps or both. Had tried to use 0.3 mm enameled wire which was hard to work with. Have done other switches with no issues since.
 
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QuiTim

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I’ve removed all the wires and mosfet. no lifted pads and still get blue screen immediately. I’m thinking it could’ve been bad firmware on the rp as I downloaded the first 2.72 version or bad soldering on the cpu caps or both. Had tried to use 0.3 mm enameled wire which was hard to work with. Have done other switches with no issues since.
If you used that firmware during the first 14h of release you probably ended up with corrupt emmc.
 
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RatchetRussian

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If you used that firmware during the first 14h of release you probably ended up with corrupt emmc.
A corrupt emmc shouldn't result in a blue screen, I thought? Isn't a blue screen the sign of a dead processor?

Pretty sure the typical symptom of corrupt emmc is a black screen and 0.05a charge current without the battery plugged in.

please correct me if I'm wrong because I am currently trying to resurrect an oled with what I think is a corrupt emmc.
 
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QuiTim

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A corrupt emmc shouldn't result in a blue screen, I thought? Isn't a blue screen the sign of a dead processor?

Pretty sure the typical symptom of corrupt emmc is a black screen and 0.05a charge current without the battery plugged in.

please correct me if I'm wrong because I am currently trying to resurrect an oled with what I think is a corrupt emmc.
While most of the bsod used to be caused by apu/ram, recently since alot of people started installing (or experimenting with) picofly there are also cases of bsod from corrupt emmc, bad wireing during installation, damaged components etc.
In karatefeet case (since this is not his first install) and considering that he (most likely) used a bad fw it's most likely emmc, except if there is a reason to suspect something else (something he did wrong during install).
Search the other thread for bsod and you will see some of the cases im talking about.
 
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SeFiROOT

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Pleaseeeee helppppp, this component bloken when power on with picofly, anybody can say me wath is the component and value??? Is a switch lite motherboard.
Thank you.
 

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