Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Mr Skinner · Jun 4, 2023

I really did a thorough review under the microscope and found nothing. No apparent components with signs of burning or swelling. Are there any other tests I can do, step by step, to try and isolate what may have triggered the BSOD?

@abal1000x , @QuiTim @Danook28 ?

jkyoho · Jun 4, 2023

sleeperonair said:
only 3, i will try together tomorrow. Thank u

Post automatically merged: Jun 4, 2023

why only 1 is used and it works for them

That resistor you soldered the jumper on actually goes to both mosfets Gate.

sleeperonair · Jun 4, 2023

jkyoho said:
Тот резистор, на который вы припаяли перемычку, на самом деле идет к обоим мосфетам Gate.
View attachment 375940

I personally soldered it to 3. And this photo, where it is soldered to a resistor, is not mine

QuiTim · Jun 4, 2023

Mr Skinner said:
I really did a thorough review under the microscope and found nothing. No apparent components with signs of burning or swelling. Are there any other tests I can do, step by step, to try and isolate what may have triggered the BSOD?

@abal1000x , @QuiTim @Danook28 ?

Are you getting Blue screen or just dark screen(no power).
If it's power related these are the areas to check for short/problem

Danook28 · Jun 4, 2023

blackpac said:
There are 2 0402 capacitors very close to each other, are they the same value?

detilmalala · Jun 4, 2023

Hello, I have a v2 whose installation is well done, but it gives me an error **, my question is how much resistance should be placed at the rst point in those rare cases that is needed

Mr Skinner · Jun 4, 2023

QuiTim said:
Are you getting Blue screen or just dark screen(no power).
If it's power related these are the areas to check for short/problem

Just dark screen.
To check if components are shorted, how should I proceed? probe (-) in metallic shield and probe (+) in components?

QuiTim · Jun 4, 2023

Mr Skinner said:
Just dark screen.
To check if components are shorted, how should I proceed? probe (-) in metallic shield and probe (+) in components?

Yes, like that.
If capacitor beeps on both ends then it's shorted

RatchetRussian · Jun 4, 2023

CodyRoseman said:
flatten the wire with a hammer against somethings like a vice, then cut it to make sure the wire isn't too wide

Post automatically merged: May 31, 2023

You should use uv soldermask to make sure the wire doesn't move. I would recomend clear soldermask, as some of the coloured soldermask doesn't cure all the way through, since it's meant to be applied in a very thin layer.

I like the flattening idea! What I can't understand is why this person solders the wire to the board before reflowing the chip. Shouldn't the chip have enough solder on it to latch onto a naked wire?

I feel like adding extra solder on the one pad will just make things uneven.

Maybe if you do this, you can use 0.030 solder balls on all the pads and 0.025 solder balls on the point that gets extra solder to accommodate?

Mr Skinner · Jun 4, 2023

QuiTim said:
Yes, like that.
If capacitor beeps on both ends then it's shorted

These capacitors follow the same rule?

lightninjay · Jun 4, 2023

Mr Skinner said:
View attachment 375961

These capacitors follow the same rule?

Those will probably beep both sides (depending on your multimeter and its sensitivity), but that is because the capacitor is passing a slight continuity between the pads.

QuiTim · Jun 5, 2023

Mr Skinner said:
View attachment 375961

These capacitors follow the same rule?

It should be like this (picture)
But as @lightninjay said in the post above, some multimeters might give continuous beep.
Try to find a similar capacitor somewhere else on the board and see if you get same results.
Those capacitors being dead make alot of sense since it there the mosfets were soldered and likely the source of your smoky situation

Mr Skinner · Jun 5, 2023

QuiTim said:
It should be like this (picture)
But as @lightninjay said in the post above, some multimeters might give continuous beep.
Try to find a similar capacitor somewhere else on the board and see if you get same results.
Those capacitors being dead make alot of sense since it there the mosfets were soldered and likely the source of your smoky situation

Thanks for all the help given so far.
Well, I'm going to try very early tomorrow to try to isolate the short. But I'm starting to think it was all in my head... Maybe, just the mosfets have shorted and the smoke I saw maybe came from them.

Assuming that there is no short on my board, which could cause BSOD (Black screen), since I completely removed the picofly and the wires soldered to it. How do I test the APU and MMC to see if they are functional?

Thanks again, but today my day was pretty sad.

lightninjay · Jun 5, 2023

New update to the guide just dropped

https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/

deeps · Jun 5, 2023

lightninjay said:
New update to the guide just dropped

https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/

you can remove the "CLK is not connected" error, it no longer exists

lightninjay · Jun 5, 2023

deeps said:
you can remove the "CLK is not connected" error, it no longer exists

If it doesn't exist, then it will never be any issue

(I copied the LED code data directly from Rehius' post, so if he still includes it, then so will I)

sergiochendry · Jun 5, 2023

sergiochendry said:
Without pico is the same
Blank screen
After that instal pico and new dat0 adapter
Got succes led but
Just blank screen to

Anyone please help
I got black screen to in my oled switch

abal1000x · Jun 5, 2023

sergiochendry said:
Anyone please help
I got black screen to in my oled switch

Theres no solution so far.
Someone saying succeed solve it by restore the nand content from backup.

My current analysis is the nand data corrupted, because of improper CMD/CLK/D0 used.
The problem is how to restore it, since its usually before even goes to hekate to backup the nand.

Try use ums-loader, does it work? Try to backup the emmc using pc, does it work?

HackMan37 · Jun 5, 2023

If the ums-loader works, you can restore the boot0/1 partition with emmcgenerator using the universalprod.keys.

But before doing anything, backup.

chewwie · Jun 5, 2023

My B/RST point is at around 1.4 V which is wrong... any ideas? thanks in advance

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