Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Danook28 · Jun 4, 2023

detilmalala said:
With the chip placed, the console does not start in original mode, if I remove it, it does start original, I already changed the micro sd card for another and the same result

Buy new mmc chip and restore full nand backup to it .. It is working brother.

FreeLander · Jun 4, 2023

frozenboy said:
I am also a fan of green led for success. Looking green led make me feel relief that nothing wrong. It would be great if you get it back in next version. This is my silly idea but BGR and RGB only revert led B and R right. so green should be the same for both, Am I right. It still make me wonder since G and R be revert instead off B and R like the name it should.
I guess I will stick with lower fw version in the meantime. btw, Is that necessary to put resistor to the mosfet. I found it exist on the cable, but it seem some people put it in mosfet and soneone doent. And what is that purpose of it

I've done 8+ MOSFETs installations on all models, never used a resistor. Glitches in seconds.

deeps · Jun 4, 2023

detilmalala said:
With the chip placed, the console does not start in original mode, if I remove it, it does start original, I already changed the micro sd card for another and the same result

I think you need double resistors on dat0 and cmd. I had the same problem on one of my v1's, double resistors fixed it.

detilmalala · Jun 4, 2023

deeps said:
I think you need double resistors on dat0 and cmd. I had the same problem on one of my v1's, double resistors fixed it.

Could you provide a diagram of how to place the resistors?

deeps · Jun 4, 2023

detilmalala said:
Could you provide a diagram of how to place the resistors?

detilmalala · Jun 4, 2023

man you're great... Console working on ofw and cfw adding a second resistor at points 28 and 29 thank you very much!!!

Post automatically merged: Jun 4, 2023

detilmalala said:
Could you provide a diagram of how to place the resistors?

deeps said:
I think you need double resistors on dat0 and cmd. I had the same problem on one of my v1's, double resistors fixed it.

man you're great... Console working on ofw and cfw adding a second resistor at points 28 and 29 thank you very much!!!

deeps · Jun 4, 2023

detilmalala said:
man you're great... Console working on ofw and cfw adding a second resistor at points 28 and 29 thank you very much!!!

Nice!

Everyone, I think it's time we update the resistor recommendations. I've tested double 47ohm on an oled, a lite and a bunch of v1's and they all work fine, and most of the v1's didn't without. Haven't seen any situation where it causes problems. @rehius @lightninjay @Adran_Marit

lightninjay · Jun 4, 2023

deeps said:
Nice!

Everyone, I think it's time we update the resistor recommendations. I've tested double 47ohm on an oled, a lite and a bunch of v1's and they all work fine, and most of the v1's didn't without. Haven't seen any situation where it causes problems. @rehius @lightninjay @Adran_Marit

I have no issue with updating to default installations including 94 ohm on Dat0 and CMD pads of the RP2040. I also need to update and include ALL of the LED codes now that it seems we've stabilized into an area of comprehensiveness. I think the main reason we have left it ambiguous is because we have not made a wire size/thickness requirement, and different resistances of wire diameter could have some effect potentially.

s4n0suk3 · Jun 4, 2023

Danook28 said:
Add pic for help.

here pics, 2nd pics first boton pad broken 1 leg but i supose y can touch the other flex pads (pic 3)

Danook28 · Jun 4, 2023

Is it fine to use 0.1 mm magnet wier to mosfet sp1 sp2 capacitor and pico point on motherbord.

Post automatically merged: Jun 4, 2023

s4n0suk3 said:
here pics, 2nd pics first boton pad broken 1 leg but i supose y can touch the other flex pads (pic 3)

I dont think if is need more skill use magnate copper wier to that broken leg to soldring it from out side or flat copper pads that use for fix rip pads . Or replace it part. If it not conect to gother.

Mr Skinner · Jun 4, 2023

So Goodfellas, my time has come, it's tradition every generation for me to take a big financial loss, I think I burned my Nintendo Switch OLED.

I still have no idea what caused it, but I believe it was my mosfet mount that shorted out to the metal casing that covers the CPU. When I turned it on, there was smoke somewhere. It is currently in BSOD (Black).

Does anyone have any tips for me to try to check if there is salvation? Maybe a blown fuse, or a blown component. (I know it might just be empty hope).

I wanted to check out the mainboard, before thinking about the possibilities, I'm already looking at mainboards to buy...

abal1000x · Jun 4, 2023

Mr Skinner said:
So Goodfellas, my time has come, it's tradition every generation for me to take a big financial loss, I think I burned my Nintendo Switch OLED.

I still have no idea what caused it, but I believe it was my mosfet mount that shorted out to the metal casing that covers the CPU. When I turned it on, there was smoke somewhere. It is currently in BSOD (Black).

Does anyone have any tips for me to try to check if there is salvation? Maybe a blown fuse, or a blown component. (I know it might just be empty hope).

I wanted to check out the mainboard, before thinking about the possibilities, I'm already looking at mainboards to buy...

You should trace what component burn, that is your best clue.
Using microscope find some 'explosion' matter splatter around.

QuiTim · Jun 4, 2023

Mr Skinner said:
So Goodfellas, my time has come, it's tradition every generation for me to take a big financial loss, I think I burned my Nintendo Switch OLED.

I still have no idea what caused it, but I believe it was my mosfet mount that shorted out to the metal casing that covers the CPU. When I turned it on, there was smoke somewhere. It is currently in BSOD (Black).

Does anyone have any tips for me to try to check if there is salvation? Maybe a blown fuse, or a blown component. (I know it might just be empty hope).

I wanted to check out the mainboard, before thinking about the possibilities, I'm already looking at mainboards to buy...

You can always buy a new one but it's more fun to try and fix it.
Some pictures and background story would provide a good starting point for some people here to try to help you.
In any case, first I would check the voltage draw then see where that takes you.

Danook28 · Jun 4, 2023

Mr Skinner said:
So Goodfellas, my time has come, it's tradition every generation for me to take a big financial loss, I think I burned my Nintendo Switch OLED.

I still have no idea what caused it, but I believe it was my mosfet mount that shorted out to the metal casing that covers the CPU. When I turned it on, there was smoke somewhere. It is currently in BSOD (Black).

Does anyone have any tips for me to try to check if there is salvation? Maybe a blown fuse, or a blown component. (I know it might just be empty hope).

I wanted to check out the mainboard, before thinking about the possibilities, I'm already looking at mainboards to buy...

Sp1 sp2 capacitor read in multimater this is the capacitor first read.

nico77 · Jun 4, 2023

any tips or method
how much i need to put/apply the thermal pasta??

so it doesnt overheat etc
thx

Switxh · Jun 4, 2023

nico77 said:
any tips or method
how much i need to put/apply the thermal pasta??
View attachment 375900
so it doesnt overheat etc
thx

Because it's the bare dye it's pretty important to cover it completely so I personally just put a big blob on there large enough that I know for sure it will squeeze out and cover the entire surface of the dye when I put the shield and heat pipe back on. You protected your CPU points so don't be afraid to use "too much" paste.

Mr Skinner · Jun 4, 2023

abal1000x said:
You should trace what component burn, that is your best clue.
Using microscope find some 'explosion' matter splatter around.

I've already started doing it. I removed all the rp2040 cables from the board, and tested the 3.3v point, reads 3.35v when power button was pressed. currently no component in the heatsink fan region seems burnt, the smoke in my view came from that region.

QuiTim said:
You can always buy a new one but it's more fun to try and fix it.
Some pictures and background story would provide a good starting point for some people here to try to help you.
In any case, first I would check the voltage draw then see where that takes you.

It's always nice to fix, I confess I'm inclined to really try. I'm checking the voltages, when the power button is pressed the 3.3v point where the picofly's power wire is installed reads 3.35v. Then energy arrives in that region.

Danook28 said:
Sp1 sp2 capacitor read in multimater this is the capacitor first read.

What are the reference values?

nico77 · Jun 4, 2023

Switxh said:
Because it's the bare dye it's pretty important to cover it completely so I personally just put a big blob on there large enough that I know for sure it will squeeze out and cover the entire surface of the dye when I put the shield and heat pipe back on. You protected your CPU points so don't be afraid to use "too much" paste.

i saw some people remove the copper tape.

removing the copper good or bad idea??

Danook28 · Jun 4, 2023

Mr Skinner said:
I've already started doing it. I removed all the rp2040 cables from the board, and tested the 3.3v point, reads 3.35v when power button was pressed. currently no component in the heatsink fan region seems burnt, the smoke in my view came from that region.

It's always nice to fix, I confess I'm inclined to really try. I'm checking the voltages, when the power button is pressed the 3.3v point where the picofly's power wire is installed reads 3.35v. Then energy arrives in that region.

What are the reference values?

1.0 uf 6.3 v ( 0201)

sergiochendry · Jun 4, 2023

sergiochendry said:
Hello, i bought new switch oled and get toshiba nand
when i press the power on
Picofly logo show normaly, when i press volume -+ to get OFW, just show blackscreen
I unplug battery and plug in back, i got error ** (RST)
I change RST cable and now got =**
Picofly logo show again and cannot get into OFW
Just blakscreen again

So i add more resistor cause i think toshiba need more resistor (47+47)
And now got =***

Update
I change my dat0 adapter because it suck and my emmc error
And now i got succes led
But now screen just blank
I cannot get into hekate
So how can i repair my boot0?

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