Picofly AIO Thread

LogicalMadness

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okay sometimes ive botched some mosfet installs and as soon as i turn them on, i see smoke comming out of the console, as soon as that happens, i turn it off. I take out the mosfets to see what i did wrong, test them to see which one is shorted but for they both pass... what? shouldnt one be shorted? it fent up in fucking smokes so.

"Smoke" COULD just be left over flux. I know it makes you panick, but I've seen it a couple times now (in testing before I did a full IPA cleaning of the flux) and nothing was ever broken and only flashes the 'smoke' the first time you boot the glitch.
 

lightninjay

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You guys said that for mosfets i need thicker wire right? How much thicker we talking?
Welp, I use 36awg (.127mm) wire to run from my mosfets to the caps on the APU, and try to keep the runs short by keeping the mosfets close to the APU die. Then the CPU pin that comes from the rp2040 to the mosfet can be 40awg (.08mm) since it's basically just a signal voltage to the mosfet.
 

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c3pp0

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Hi!

I just did my first picofly install on a co-worker's V2 and everything went well so far, but I had a tiny issue in the end where the pico would blink long blue, then twice *== after which the switch booted to OFW.

I could not find that error code in the guides, but in some list on reddit I found that *== should be the code for "No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)".

I measured everything again and found a short on pin 27 (CLK) to a ground pad of the push button of the pico, even though it really did not look shorted at all. After I resoldered the resistor everything worked and it successfully glitched.

I thought maybe this could help, if someone has the same error code :)
 

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aparitxi

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Hi everyone, just congratulating this posts and the help that every user gives. I succesfully installed a tiny(the first batch with wrong resistors) in the oled. It fits perfectly and works great. I forgot to take pictures but i can make some if needed for whatever reason. Thank you all again
So what is de difference between installing the tiny and the zero? There are no buttons or usb ports to be unsoldered i guess but you need to install the 47omh resistors as well right? And there is some voltage regulator or something else to be unsoldered? Are the led codes the same? Thank you in advance
 
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lightninjay

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So what is de difference between installing the tiny and the zero? There are no buttons or usb ports to be unsoldered i guess but you need to install the 47omh resistors as well right? And there is some voltage regulator or something else to be unsoldered? Are the led codes the same? Thank you in advance
They are functionally the same board, all the same solder points, and the only reason you would need to install 47ohm resistors is if you somehow got one of the boards from their original recalled batch (they put 0201 sized 470 ohm resistors instead of 47 ohm) but the newer boards that are shipping now should have the proper resistors in place.

If you really wanted to, you can remove the LDO (Low droupout regulator) which is the 5-legged component to the bottom left of the flex connector, but that removes the ability to flash firmware via USB in the future, because the LDO drops USB 5v to the 3v required by the RP2040.
 

jmmc

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So what is de difference between installing the tiny and the zero? There are no buttons or usb ports to be unsoldered i guess but you need to install the 47omh resistors as well right? And there is some voltage regulator or something else to be unsoldered? Are the led codes the same? Thank you in advance

Tiny has resistors included.
 
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lightninjay

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Tiny has resistors included.
please don't immediately assume that everyone has the updated Tiny with the correct resistors. There are original Tiny's out in the wild that are dangerous to install since they have 470ohm resistors installed, just as I mentioned in the post above yours, so I see no point to your post.
 
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jkyoho

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Hi!

I just did my first picofly install on a co-worker's V2 and everything went well so far, but I had a tiny issue in the end where the pico would blink long blue, then twice *== after which the switch booted to OFW.

I could not find that error code in the guides, but in some list on reddit I found that *== should be the code for "No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)".

I measured everything again and found a short on pin 27 (CLK) to a ground pad of the push button of the pico, even though it really did not look shorted at all. After I resoldered the resistor everything worked and it successfully glitched.

I thought maybe this could help, if someone has the same error code :)
Great finding!! The left top and left bottom pad from removed BOOT button are ground pad, same goes to the REST button, I recommend put a Kapton tape or solder mask the ground pad if you could to minimize the unexpected hassle
 
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lightninjay

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The left top and left bottom pad from removed BOOT button are ground pad, look how close you put the resistor to them, thats why you have CLK short to ground maybe.
lmao, did you read their whole post where they explain that's EXACTLY what it was, they fixed it, and now posted this to help anyone else who might do the same thing? :)
 
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QuiTim

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wait what?

wait ur using a single mosfet on horizontal caps? isnt 2 necesary?
2 mosfets are not required. There seem to be cases where 1 is not enough but I still did not have a case like that, i've done all my installs like this: single mosfet, single wire on both caps, ground to apu point.
 

naldo29

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2 mosfets are not required. There seem to be cases where 1 is not enough but I still did not have a case like that, i've done all my installs like this: single mosfet, single wire on both caps, ground to apu point.
good to know. what mosfet are you using? it doesnt seem to be the IRFHS8342, so im just curious.
 

chewwie

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i have got 1.4V at B/RST point (half of correct value?) and then 1.3 at A/CMD point. which is about double of the correct value. anybody has anyidea about what went wrong? thanks. do we have a discord channel?
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i have got 1.4V at B/RST point (half of correct value?) and then 1.3 at A/CMD point. which is about double of the correct value. anybody has anyidea about what went wrong? thanks. do we have a discord channel?
ok just figured that my A point is not properly soldered. i have to push the ribbon down for it to connect and get the correct 0.64 value. but B point is still a mystery. i thought once A is correct B will give me a proper value, but thats not the case.
 
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aparitxi

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They are functionally the same board, all the same solder points, and the only reason you would need to install 47ohm resistors is if you somehow got one of the boards from their original recalled batch (they put 0201 sized 470 ohm resistors instead of 47 ohm) but the newer boards that are shipping now should have the proper resistors in place.

If you really wanted to, you can remove the LDO (Low droupout regulator) which is the 5-legged component to the bottom left of the flex connector, but that removes the ability to flash firmware via USB in the future, because the LDO drops USB 5v to the 3v required by the RP2040.
So if i understand well, there is a firt batch with bad resistors that need to be replaced for the correct ones, and other batch with correct resistors, but my problem here is that my first rp2040 zero had a shortcircuit between gnd and 3.3v pads and i dont know the reason. Some people told me that was because i did not removed the voltage regulator, other that was a bad 3.3v input.
 

Adran_Marit

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So if i understand well, there is a firt batch with bad resistors that need to be replaced for the correct ones, and other batch with correct resistors, but my problem here is that my first rp2040 zero had a shortcircuit between gnd and 3.3v pads and i dont know the reason. Some people told me that was because i did not removed the voltage regulator, other that was a bad 3.3v input.
the first batch of rp2040-tiny had bad resistors, the second match were corrected.

The rp2040-tiny and rp2040-zero are different board profiles.
I would suggest if you have a second one around to test it if you were having a short
 

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