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Do you remember what fw on your rp2040? lower than 2.7 fw has blue blingking when glitching, and only 2.7+ fw has yelloe led for error code troubleshoot
Will diode test on dat0 still show up correct even if it’s shifted to the next spot over?
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I just grabbed the new firmware today. The one that was uploaded two days ago to GitHub… I was surprised to see blue.
I had the issue of shifted dat0 and it showed the correct diode value even though it was not in position.
Any chance you can help me figure out what high error I’m getting my eyes go crossed trying to figure it out.
I don't know. If it was emmc it would likely be blue, and there is no good reason for cpu to be dead.
I'm still thinking that the resistor on cmd could be the problem.
If you were soldering with 320° i'm afraid that it took longer then it should to solder that point. Could you try to replace that one with 4.7k or even bigger?
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Nuke the pico, get the firmware from page 78 here, flash it again. Or get another pico and flash the firmware and lets see what happensAny chance you can help me figure out what high error I’m getting my eyes go crossed trying to figure it out.
Blue flashing indicates possibly something wrong with firmware since it should be flashing yellow? I have about 5 pico on hand. I can flash another and wire it up to see. Will have to be tomorrow when I can get back to my shop. Thanks!
If I remember correctly, probably it's a good value. But...if you measure it on pcb then it is the resistance of the path all-around this CMD 4k7, not the resitance of the resitore itself (the other path has lower resistance so you cant measure it in this case).
Never get your firmware from Github. Always get it from here.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10090767
Last edited by Takezo-San,
@FreeLander do you have the usb voltage tester? Did you check for voltage change/reset when connecting the charger?
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Not to mention when someone just right click save the link where says fw_x.xx_uf2 on the list and got a 1xx kb wrong file.
What all can be unplugged when testing install.. can I leave speaker unplugged? Or would this cause issues?
What's the best way to go about fitting a wire underneath the emmc? I tried with 34 awg magnet wire but it was just a little too thick and raised the corner of the emmc.
Solder balls or paste?
I've just been practicing with donor boards and can consistently reball the emmc but not with a wire attached.
flatten the wire with a hammer against somethings like a vice, then cut it to make sure the wire isn't too wide
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You should use uv soldermask to make sure the wire doesn't move. I would recomend clear soldermask, as some of the coloured soldermask doesn't cure all the way through, since it's meant to be applied in a very thin layer.
Ok, tried, no dice, even at 5cm length it still failed or glitching endlessly.
Why not shorter? please guess.
Until there is a video proof that this kind of wiring works im not gonna take it.
Just read the updated code from rehius.
So heres the summary of the flowchart:
First, the code will detect the voltage
Check the voltage of RST (1.6-2.0v) failed throws **
Check the voltage of CMD (1.6-2.0v) failed throws *=
Check the voltage of D0 (1.6-2.0v) failed throws =*
All in the supposed voltage. This detection doesn't remove the possibility that the D0 short with the D1, only to make sure if the D0 line is not disconnected. In your case, this test is passed (OK).
Then the code check on the activity of the emmc.
It should do somekind of cmd1 request, then cmd1 response, then read block 0 then read block 1.
Here is the boot process in the datasheet as reference
In your case, nothing is detected (no cmd1 request, cmd1 response, block 0 and block1).
So this is my one cent guess:
If your device could boot normaly to ofw after that, then the apu or emmc, everything is okay. Your wire is definitely at fault, because the pico couldn't spoof the emmc communication.
Heres the probable scenario, if your device (apu + emmc) is okay:
CLK line is not connected. Even though in the section "Led Indication" stated that the CLK also detected, but i dont see it in anywhere in the code, which detecting the CLK line. I am not expert at signal, maybe you could test using multimeter on the pico, whether there is a voltage. If there is activity then the CLK line is connected. Would be better if you have oscilloscope. I don't have it, so i couldn't suggest further.
Since CMD is connected (voltage detection), and i dont see any possibility that it goes wrong (some interference), then the pico could read the line if CLK is connected. And at this point, the Dat0 not yet to be used. Dat0 will be used in the next stage, which is writing the loader to the emmc. So Dat0 is less probable to be the cause of the problem. Buuuuttt stilll, if the Dat0 short circuit the Dat1, then the emmc might not function properly. And again if its working normally goes to ofw, then the emmc function properly means the Dat0 is not short circuit with Dat1.
So in conclustion, your CLK is the most suspect. But since its difficult and risky to do anything on that point. You might just do some simple measurement using multimeter on the CLK pin in the pico side right before the resistor. Just to makesure if it is really connected. There should be some voltage measured. I am not yet confirmed this. Maybe others who still have oled could confirm this.
Last edited by abal1000x,
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