Picofly AIO Thread

SirHill · May 30, 2023

cgtchy0412 said:
You need to fix that cmd point you broke, you will know its fixed when your switch can boot normally.

Hello,

I'm still on my torn off CMD signal pads.

I removed the picofly by removing wires form the picofly, but I let the flex cable in place (I didn't want to touch it).
With a magnifier, I saw that the top of the via has been torn off, I saw a rest of the via in the deep of the PCB. I soldered a wire from it to the remaining track of CMD signal.

I turned on the Switch on, and I got a purple/pink screen !

It is better than the black screen than before, but still a not working console...

Should I remove the flex cable near the processor (CPU wire is "on the air") ?
Do you know where is the "CMD" signal at the bottom of the PCB ? Maybe I could wire the top to the bottom (because the via is really damaged)
Maybe I joined a copper layer in the middle of the PCB, but not all layers ?

Thanks for your help

LogicalMadness · May 30, 2023

Takezo-San said:
Lol. Yep, people will be better off because of us and yes, I've seen Northridge fix use that pen. But I'm a risk taker and don't mind skipping a meal to get the job done so I think I'm getting a thermal cam. Potentially help this community out better too, in the long run. Just think....what would Robin Hood do...........

I have a cam but not a BSOD to try on. I love the idea though, so... purposely try to BSOD one of my spare V1\2s? XD

QuiTim · May 30, 2023

SirHill said:
Hello,

I'm still on my torn off CMD signal pads.

I removed the picofly by removing wires form the picofly, but I let the flex cable in place (I didn't want to touch it).
With a magnifier, I saw that the top of the via has been torn off, I saw a rest of the via in the deep of the PCB. I soldered a wire from it to the remaining track of CMD signal.
View attachment 374942

I turned on the Switch on, and I got a purple/pink screen !
View attachment 374943

It is better than the black screen than before, but still a not working console...

Should I remove the flex cable near the processor (CPU wire is "on the air") ?

Do you know where is the "CMD" signal at the bottom of the PCB ? Maybe I could wire the top to the bottom (because the via is really damaged)

Maybe I joined a copper layer in the middle of the PCB, but not all layers ?

Thanks for your help

- You should never leave the mosfets connected to apu without pico (except if you have a resistor soldered on G-S)
- That right cmd point goes under APU
- Since you had black before and now purple i guess you managed to solder it (but im not sure of this, we need another opinion).

cgtchy0412 · May 31, 2023

SirHill said:
Hello,

I'm still on my torn off CMD signal pads.

I removed the picofly by removing wires form the picofly, but I let the flex cable in place (I didn't want to touch it).
With a magnifier, I saw that the top of the via has been torn off, I saw a rest of the via in the deep of the PCB. I soldered a wire from it to the remaining track of CMD signal.
View attachment 374942

I turned on the Switch on, and I got a purple/pink screen !
View attachment 374943

It is better than the black screen than before, but still a not working console...

Should I remove the flex cable near the processor (CPU wire is "on the air") ?

Do you know where is the "CMD" signal at the bottom of the PCB ? Maybe I could wire the top to the bottom (because the via is really damaged)

Maybe I joined a copper layer in the middle of the PCB, but not all layers ?

Thanks for your help

Use the thinnest wire you have, i think ive done some via jumping with 0.01mm enamel.
Bridge that with cmd point on emmc module, and let see what happen.

Type_O_Dev · May 31, 2023

Don't know if anyone has realized, but a few images are broken/missing on OP now

Adran_Marit · May 31, 2023

Type_O_Dev said:
Don't know if anyone has realized, but a few images are broken/missing on OP nowView attachment 374991

I'll see what I can do after.

SirHill said:
Hello,

I'm still on my torn off CMD signal pads.

I removed the picofly by removing wires form the picofly, but I let the flex cable in place (I didn't want to touch it).
With a magnifier, I saw that the top of the via has been torn off, I saw a rest of the via in the deep of the PCB. I soldered a wire from it to the remaining track of CMD signal.
View attachment 374942

I turned on the Switch on, and I got a purple/pink screen !
View attachment 374943

It is better than the black screen than before, but still a not working console...

Should I remove the flex cable near the processor (CPU wire is "on the air") ?

Do you know where is the "CMD" signal at the bottom of the PCB ? Maybe I could wire the top to the bottom (because the via is really damaged)

Maybe I joined a copper layer in the middle of the PCB, but not all layers ?

Thanks for your help

Cmd resistor?

Protostoppo · May 31, 2023

Hi, I have a mariko switch v2 and I bought this chip and it will arrive in a couple of weeks and I am looking for information on how it should be installed.
I know that the simple picofly needs special wire soldering on the motherboard and I was wondering if it was the same with this one or was the installation like the old hwfly.
On another thread where 99% bought the simple picofly there was a guy who bought the chip like mine but for oled switches and he did these wire soldering which I don't know if they did with the previous chip as well. Hence my doubt.
I tried contacting the seller who passed me some links, a drive with various firmware update files and installation guides including videos but they are for the old hwfly, hence my doubt. Could you help me understand what to do? thanks

aparitxi · May 31, 2023

pindleskin said:
After managing to mod my Switch Lite quite easily, I think I messed up my patched V1. All went smooth until the 3v3 point on the cap. I bridged the contact to the cap next to it and to remove the bridge I then had to remove the 3v3 cap from the board. During this process the cap got pretty destroyed: No lead on one of the sides and change in color. So not usable anymore. The solder pads still seem to be fine, no bridge.

Is it possible/save to run the Switch without this cap or is there another cap, that I could source somewhere else?

According to this here it is a 2.2µf 10V MLCC, so there would still be the alternative to just order some of these off the shelf.

View attachment 374683

Hi, i destroyed the exact same cap when tried to solder 3.3v wire and the only problem is that without that cap the switch do not charge in fast mode when is plugged in the dock, and if you plug in the dock when the switch is completely turned off the dock enters in an error mode (green light blinking).

SirHill · May 31, 2023

cgtchy0412 said:
Use the thinnest wire you have, i think ive done some via jumping with 0.01mm enamel.
Bridge that with cmd point on emmc module, and let see what happen.
View attachment 374990

Hello,

On the photo, I already installed the wire from the via to the track just beside.

Best regards

CarlosGo · May 31, 2023

CarlosGo said:
Hello everyone. This works? cut the flex and take the point from this, I saw him in a group. I have a flex v3 and I want to install it on a lite. Could this work so that the cable does not get in the way so much?

HackMan37 · May 31, 2023

I think that could works, because he's using the gate of the mosfet

Flaviocarvalho · May 31, 2023

Hi guys...i received from a friend as a gift this adapter dat0 but on microscope looks like this is damaged...my question...is that usefull or is trash? Thesr points that are damaged are necessary for the emmc to work? This part is the one that is reballed to the motherboard

QuiTim · May 31, 2023

Protostoppo said:
Hi, I have a mariko switch v2 and I bought this chip and it will arrive in a couple of weeks and I am looking for information on how it should be installed.
I know that the simple picofly needs special wire soldering on the motherboard and I was wondering if it was the same with this one or was the installation like the old hwfly.
On another thread where 99% bought the simple picofly there was a guy who bought the chip like mine but for oled switches and he did these wire soldering which I don't know if they did with the previous chip as well. Hence my doubt.
I tried contacting the seller who passed me some links, a drive with various firmware update files and installation guides including videos but they are for the old hwfly, hence my doubt. Could you help me understand what to do? thanksView attachment 375006
View attachment 375007

This chip of yours does not need wires because it gets all the connections through the emmc board pass through connector but you do need to solder the apu points (sp1 and sp2).
Oleds on the other hand are more complicated and need wires.

Post automatically merged: May 31, 2023

SirHill said:
Hello,

On the photo, I already installed the wire from the via to the track just beside.

Best regards

Did you manage to fix it?

LuigiGad · Jun 1, 2023

What changes from 2.73 to 2.74? I couldn't figure it out
edit: Is it just about the name? From Pikofly to PicoFly?

Moneyforthecash · Jun 1, 2023

LuigiGad said:
Is it just about the name?

No.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10090767

v2.74 + 300 mhz precision

aparitxi · Jun 1, 2023

Hi, i followed the picofly guide some weeks ago with a mariko v2 and after some trouble soldering the 3.3v wire to the cap everything worked fine, i have been using hekate and atmosphere without problem for 2 weeks or so. Suddenly yesterday i tried to turn on the switch and nothing happened, no error no sound only black screen. I opened the switch for test the wires thinking that should be a bad soldering and when tested with a multimeter i detected a shortcut between gnd and 3.3v pads, i removed the rp2040 from the switch and the shorcut persist between gnd and 3.3v in the rp2040, in the switch was not shortcut after removing the rp2040 but was not powering on.
Now i have some questions:

Should be the switch working without rp, launching ofw, or at least showing some error?

What could be the cause of this shortcut? Everything seemed to be good soldered

Is the rp2040 damaged? Sould be a good idea to simply put another one and check what happens?

Did i ruin my console?

Thank you all in advance

rehius · Jun 1, 2023

aparitxi said:
shorcut persist between gnd and 3.3v in the rp2040

looks like you forgot to remove the 3.3v linear regulator on the back side. it can shortcut when working in such conditions (no input voltage)

hothotramen · Jun 2, 2023

Anybody tried these? All the sellers who used to have Instinct NX have now swapped over to these. They’re $11 USD but come with everything you need.

ypeeLs · Jun 2, 2023

QuiTim said:
- You should never leave the mosfets connected to apu without pico (except if you have a resistor soldered on G-S)
- That right cmd point goes under APU
- Since you had black before and now purple i guess you managed to solder it (but im not sure of this, we need another opinion).

What resistor value should be soldered to G and S? I just got a bunch of 4.7k to fix a purple screen, would that work?

Takezo-San · Jun 2, 2023

ypeeLs said:
What resistor value should be soldered to G and S? I just got a bunch of 4.7k to fix a purple screen, would that work?

anything from 1k-1mhz. so yes, 4k7 would work. pretty good acutally

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