as I said above, I killed my lite by bad soldeing. ended up tearing the clk pad clean off
Picofly AIO Thread
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Oh wow this was quite informative, thank you so much! :o although sounds like i would expend a lot of money that i might not have XD But thank you nonetheless!
I have exactly your situation with my lite.
I have tried with differents sd card, 2 just black screen on hekate or others payloads, 1 with failed to read payload.bin screen of picofly.
I was able to dump the rawnand using the ums-loader.bin that you mention.
I have access to the boot0/1 partitions too.
I have tried with the alternative data0 only point described before and same results.
The values of the resistors are ok, the mosfet works well, i'm using the hwfly flex.
I think that in some time we will be able to do something with the others data point to recover or something. I hope this.
Finally success! It wasn't smooth sailing though. After SDA/SCL not only was I still getting ==* but it also stopped booting into OFW with black screen and not even backlight. Disconnected the SDA/SCL wires and still nothing. While removing them I knocked off the Data0 wire from the resistor on the Pico and was a pain to resolder as it just wouldn't tin anymore. Finally got it on, but still==*.
At this point I was just going to backtrack, remove everything and start from scratch with better wire, but decided to give SDA/SCL another try and what do you know, it glitched just fine this time. Tucked everything in, put the shield on and again black screen, ==*.
Took the shield off, checked if anything was loose, nothing obvious, checked the glitch and it was OK. Put the shield back on, still OK; back cover on, still OK.
So, definitely something is not exactly right, but I wont know unless I redo everything. For now I'll see how long it holds like that and once I find some wire that works well redo it. The insulation on the 30awg Kynar I got from Amazon is too thick for reasonable cable management and doesn't self strip. In fact it seems to be silicone and doesn't melt at any temperature.
Wow excellent work. So it is 1mm length = 0402. I had trouble finding it yesterday but thanks to you, I have the exact transistor code now. Thank you @QuiTim . Though its bitter sweet because it won't fix the blue screen but needs replacing anyway.
Edit - Does anyone here think investing in a thermal cam would be a good idea in detecting causes for blue screen or pink screen of death? Would it be wise or even work?
You are welcome. Your measurement from previous post was crucial in narrowing the search down. Now this info is part of the thread and Whosoever uses Search, they will be worthy and shall possess the power of this knowledgeWow excellent work. So it is 1mm length = 0402. I had trouble finding it yesterday but thanks to you, I have the exact transistor code now. Thank you @QuiTim . Though its bitter sweet because it won't fix the blue screen but needs replacing anyway.
Edit - Does anyone here think investing in a thermal cam would be a good idea in detecting causes for blue screen or pink screen of death? Would it be wise or even work?
Regarding the thermal camera, If I had the money I would buy it, but I would also buy an Armadillo Girdled Lizard (they look fu*kin awesome) because I love spending money on things I might never use but are cool to have.
On the technical side of things I think that something like this https://a.aliexpress.com/_msYQRBa might get the job done.
Joking aside, if you do this professionally, as a business, I think that thermal cam is an awesome piece of equipment to have.
*Edit: also, regarding this specific issue, I don't think that thermal cam can do much. If it was a short, the kind that heats up components to the point of being visible through heat vision, I dont think the Switch would power up at all.
It has to be something else
Last edited by QuiTim,
Lol. Yep, people will be better off because of us and yes, I've seen Northridge fix use that pen. But I'm a risk taker and don't mind skipping a meal to get the job done so I think I'm getting a thermal cam. Potentially help this community out better too, in the long run. Just think....what would Robin Hood do...........You are welcome. Your measurement from previous post was crucial in narrowing the search down. Now this info is part of the thread and Whosoever uses Search, they will be worthy and shall possess the power of this knowledge
Regarding the thermal camera, If I had the money I would buy it, but I would also buy an Armadillo Girdled Lizard (they look fu*kin awesome) because I love spending money on things I might never use but are cool to have.
On the technical side of things I think that something like this https://a.aliexpress.com/_msYQRBa might get the job done.
Joking aside, if you do this professionally, as a business, I think that thermal cam is an awesome piece of equipment to have.
I bridge the rgb jumper on the rp 2040 but when I flash it still green I've reset the wire like 10 times using 30awg tinned copper wire
Robin Hood would help you spend your money for the good of the people
This looks nice and portable: https://shop.thermal.com/compact-pro-ff-android-usb-c
It's supposed to be green from 2.7 onward or better to say The colors don't matter anymore
Why not read the Guide before attempting this bro..
Found a cheaper one else where and got it. Hopefully should be able to diagnose and fix the lite and subsequently others who have the exact same problem as me. Unless it's an emmc issue, then we're screwed. But for now.....we wait.Robin Hood would help you spend your money for the good of the people
This looks nice and portable: https://shop.thermal.com/compact-pro-ff-android-usb-c
Last edited by Takezo-San,
Was following the og one didn't know the pdf but I got it to flash red any thanks can't ask simple question to get a simple answer thansk again
You are welcome. It was easier for me to write "that light is OK" but if I've given a simple answer you wouldn't know about the latest PDF and maybe somewhere along the run you might make a mistake that bricks your switch and no one here wants to see people mess up otherwise we wouldn't be here.
Stick around long enough and you'll see what i'm talking about.
Cheers
of note a pink/purple screen is usually a failed resistor on cmd? from memory.Wow excellent work. So it is 1mm length = 0402. I had trouble finding it yesterday but thanks to you, I have the exact transistor code now. Thank you @QuiTim . Though its bitter sweet because it won't fix the blue screen but needs replacing anyway.
Edit - Does anyone here think investing in a thermal cam would be a good idea in detecting causes for blue screen or pink screen of death? Would it be wise or even work?
Yes. BTW I saw a video where where a guy removed the emmc shield and it turned his switch from black screen to blue. Found that weird. How? Why?
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